DYNO Tune must do.


Oh really? Hmmm lol Ill let you know tomorrow. Bike gets back from the shop after being tuned...I hope its ok

I'm anxious to know how much we really should be worried bout our TB CF and Ti cans when dynoing. I'm no where near ready to tune, but one day...

Oh, pipe dreams :) So, Wildcard, I await your results and maybe the guys at your shop can shed some light on the matter? If you asked them, that is :)
 
According to TBR, dynoing the bike with a carbon fiber or titanium can would generate too much heat and damage the can so watch out if you got one.

well i have had my bike on the dyno with TB TI's about 3 times now.....have never noticed any damage....am thinking the packing might get a bit hot, which could cause damage, but i do know that as you have the TB'S longer, they get louder.....might have something to do with the exhaust "packing" deteriorating over time...guess that's why they recommend re-packing the exhaust after so many k's.

:thumbup:
 
TBR says not to dyno the CF and Ti cans because they get too hot without any airflow over them. This can cause scorching of the CF and Ti finish. I don't think it damages anything internal or integral to the functioning of the cans, it's more of a burned exterior and cosmetic thing.

I imagine if you had some shop fans to blow across the cans while on the dyno they might stay cool enough to avoid damaging the finish.
 
nccoder, is that dyno in your house?!

Man was my wife was pi$$ed when she came home. Lot's O manly men standing around drinkin beers with a big carbon scorch on the wall and ceiling. But hey! I got a discount! LOL!

Funny! The shop I had this done at built a little sound proof room and they probably used a set of those french doors you can buy at Home Depot. There's a restaurant 2 doors down in this building and their sound proof room didn't work to well. Hahaha! Terrible!

Cliff
 
Man was my wife was pi$$ed when she came home. Lot's O manly men standing around drinkin beers with a big carbon scorch on the wall and ceiling. But hey! I got a discount! LOL!

Funny! The shop I had this done at built a little sound proof room and they probably used a set of those french doors you can buy at Home Depot. There's a restaurant 2 doors down in this building and their sound proof room didn't work to well. Hahaha! Terrible!

Cliff

HAHA Nice! :rockon:
 
Thanks for the all the information! I really appreciate it! I've always wondered what it meant when people say they "DYNO'D" their bikes! LOL! Now I know! Well maybe once I can manage to spend about $800 for an after market exhaust, I'll have mine "DYNO'D"! :thumbup:

I love this forum...everyone's always really cool about sharing info!!! :Flash:

Generally it's strapping the bike down where it is stationary except for the back wheel which sits on a big 2,000 pound roller that is hooked to a computer and measures your Rear Wheel Horse Power (RWHP). Also there is a probe in the exhaust that measures gases to tell the air to fuel ratios.

Usually this is done with an added fuel injection computer that overrides the stock computer. This computer is programmed by a technician so that the bike produces more Horse Power as well as improving all around acceleration and better air to fuel ratios to match aftermarket exhausts, air filters, or other modifications to the engine. This program is commonly referred to as a Fuel Map or MAP.

Wait! There's more! Here's a little video of my bike getting a baseline map made for comparison for when the bike is re-mapped to run better.

YouTube - FZ6 DYNO

Hope this helps and never be afraid to ask questions. It's totally cool here!
Cliff
 
Hello everyone. Just came back from getting a baseline Dyno run to know exactly how my bike is running. (Just to recap, I decided to alter the stock exhaust based on what I've read, learned from other riders, tuners, etc. Also didn,t want to mess with the stock engineering factors for this type bike.) I compared my results with stock values obtained by Rider Mag in a road test article. Stock Values: Max HP=65.9 @ 9800 rpm, Max Torque=39.1 @ 8300 rpm. After exhaust mod: HP=75 @ 10400 rpm, Max torque= 40 @ 9000 rpm.

These are modest improvements but I needed to know if I improved anything other than sound and if I made anything worse? I did find out that my bike runs lean to about 7000 rpms, which I understand to be common. (Also exhaust mods like mine can produce dips in the power curve if U FU, but I didn't.) Anyway a PC would help me along with dyno mapping directly.

If you can get to Infineon Raceway, Sonoma, CA, find JTS Performance, 707-996-6103. These guys get bikes from everywhere, even Australia, and Jim has done 218 mph on his modified Buell at Bonneville. Very knowledgeable, addicted to performance, connected, and initial baseline runs are free!

Once I get this dialed in, I will do some suspension mods set up for my riding preferences. Just love to ride......U Know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbup:

just wanted to know mate, what did you actually do to the exhaust? and what about when you take it to a checkup? also... i read everywhere that the bike has 78 HP.. everywhere i read its like 65 and up.. is 78 at the RW or at the crank?
 
Hello Atron: On a previous post I decided to alter the stock exhaust. (Too much R & D to ignore, and for my purposes I was after a better sound). I noticed that the US version had a weld joint where the 1- 1/4" tailpipe exited roughly 2-1/2". I gambled (with my muffler guy) and cut an opening for a 2-1/4" tailpipe. If you look back you'll see a video with the mod. (A euro company did something similar for a slip-on system.) I decided to dyno because it was free for initial baseline and I wanted to make sure I didn't put a dip in the midrange power delivery which sometimes happens when opening up an exhaust and losing back pressure.

My results looked like the base stock curves from the magazines but a gain in HP at higher rpm. The stock values range from 66 to 69 HP, my results came to 75 HP. Values are dependent on temp., operator, program type etc. Just from riding (freeway rips to 90/100) that the top end is definitely better, but thats just a bonus. I wanted a better sound without hurting the stock performance. Note the torque value remained essentially the same 39 @ 8300 vs 40 @ 9000 rpm. I just played a hunch so to speak..........!
 
Ah yes so i see, i remember reading that post... i just didn`t put 1 and 1 together sorry about that... well thank you very much for kind answer.. however i am still unsure about the HP debate..
 
Atron: Just read your last post, the HP was measured on a dyno, so that value is from the rear wheel. I dunno about accuracy of readings, equipment was new and computer with real time graphs impressive to me. It just runs better.
 
ah i see.. lucky you that you have a dyno near by...happy for you about the mod
 
well i have had my bike on the dyno with TB TI's about 3 times now.....have never noticed any damage....am thinking the packing might get a bit hot, which could cause damage, but i do know that as you have the TB'S longer, they get louder.....might have something to do with the exhaust "packing" deteriorating over time...guess that's why they recommend re-packing the exhaust after so many k's.

:thumbup:

I'm probably going to attempt my first repack in a week or so. I'm curious to see what the packing looks like after 3-4k miles of each can taking turns on the right side. 7k overall since installation. Sadly, it will be a long time before I dyno her. As of now tho, the plan would be to repack shortly before the tune and discussing the cooling issue in detail with the tuner. I'd imagine they've addressed the issue before. I'd hope they have if they're very reputable :)

TBR says not to dyno the CF and Ti cans because they get too hot without any airflow over them. This can cause scorching of the CF and Ti finish. I don't think it damages anything internal or integral to the functioning of the cans, it's more of a burned exterior and cosmetic thing.

I imagine if you had some shop fans to blow across the cans while on the dyno they might stay cool enough to avoid damaging the finish.

And here I was envisioning a worst case scenario with a burnt through can or something equally horrible. I guess I should just play the lotto and win (as if it were that easy!) then I wouldn't be fretting over damaging cans :) LOL

Thanx for all the info, guys!
 



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