Went for a tuning ride to work on the map for my latest cam setting. Just to double check if the O2 sensor work like its suppose to, i plug the pc and throw it in my tank bag open. Drove around the parking lot a bit and decide to hit a back road just to check how things goes at 6K @ 70mph. Well, the tack and pcv rpm are 500 rpm off!!! @10K the pcv read 9K!!! Ill contact Dynojet tomorrow... :banghead:
Actually, I read something a few weeks back about if you low side at speed, frame sliders can do more damage by flipping the bike. I think the link or article was even on here maybe. I've actually been considering taking mine off because of it.....
Actually, I read something a few weeks back about if you low side at speed, frame sliders can do more damage by flipping the bike. I think the link or article was even on here maybe. I've actually been considering taking mine off because of it.....
Actually, I read something a few weeks back about if you low side at speed, frame sliders can do more damage by flipping the bike. I think the link or article was even on here maybe. I've actually been considering taking mine off because of it.....
Actually, I read something a few weeks back about if you low side at speed, frame sliders can do more damage by flipping the bike. I think the link or article was even on here maybe. I've actually been considering taking mine off because of it.....
Any situation where you're going fast enough to happen to catch a slider causing your bike to flip would more than likely total your bike anyway. The odds of that happening are pretty small, whereas the odds of you dropping your bike or wrecking at fairly low speeds and the frame sliders saving you from massive repair bills are substantially higher.
Any situation where you're going fast enough to happen to catch a slider causing your bike to flip would more than likely total your bike anyway. The odds of that happening are pretty small, whereas the odds of you dropping your bike or wrecking at fairly low speeds and the frame sliders saving you from massive repair bills are substantially higher.
I agree with this. I would think that on a street bike, it is probably more common to have your bike go over at a standstill or slow speed. (no statistics, just my opinion). In which case, sliders will definitely benefit.
Now alot of people at the track do have the opinion that sliders can make things worse at high speeds. I would say bikes with sliders on at the track is about 50/50.
Yah. Im working on getting some. I ride all the time and i have had a few close calls where i almost had to put the bike down.... They will come in handy
Yah. Im working on getting some. I ride all the time and i have had a few close calls where i almost had to put the bike down.... They will come in handy
I agree with this. I would think that on a street bike, it is probably more common to have your bike go over at a standstill or slow speed. (no statistics, just my opinion). In which case, sliders will definitely benefit.
Now alot of people at the track do have the opinion that sliders can make things worse at high speeds. I would say bikes with sliders on at the track is about 50/50.
Thats why sliders that arent the strongest are the best. If youre going fast enough that theyre going to grab and flip the bike theyll break off before they grab hard enough to flip it.
Any of y'all got any close up pics of where the sliders bolt up to? On the fz6 they bolt to the aluminum frame tang that extends down as part of the motor mount. Dead center in this pic
There has been quite a few people who bought extended frame sliders and when the bike goes down the extra length adds extra leverage and breaks the slider off along with the frame, and one the frame is broke the bike is totaled 90% of the time. I think that would be real hard to happen on a steel frame bike, but something that y'all might want to consider that I haven't seen anyone mention yet is the bolt. I've seen lots of "good" sliders that have cheep bolts and that is the 1st thing that fails. If you prefer the slider to break off then you might want to stay with a cheep bolt but if you would rather it stay on you might want to double check the bolt and find out what it is. Me being a metallurgist I would personally go with a mid grade bolt grade 5 or property class 9.8. They offer enough sheer strength to protect from breaking in a low speed fall but not being super strong and possible not breaking in a high speed fall. Here's a link for some basic bolt identification http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads9/Head+Marking+Chart1168989552.jpg
I have T-Rex sliders... no cut, and multiple mount points.
The bolts they come with are 12.9, so, they have to be torqued in and used with Loctite, but, they have a ridiculously high shear strength from what I understand (however, it *is* possible to shear them, since I sheared on off with initially *wrong* instructions).
They're mounted to a bracket, which is then attached to the engine mount at three points... Good quality build. Hope to never find out just how good...
Yeah 12.9 are really strong and with 3 mounting points I don't see any issues, they sound like a really good slider. And FYI the sheer strength of a bolt differs from the tensile strength, the tensile strength more or less refers to the force that tries to pull the bolt apart or the force it can hold parallel with the bolt (what most bolts are made for, up and down or in an out) while the sheer strength is the force it can stand from a perpendicular load, like a slider hitting something on the ground and "sheering" off.
In my book, slider are good if you worry dropping your bike in the garage or the parking lot. Maybe under very slow low side they might limit the damage.
I honestly never bother putting some on my ride. I agree with CFaser. Don't use too strong of a bolt. You want the bolt to let go before the frame mount.
