What did you do to your bike today?


nismos14

I'm movin on
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Scott_Thomas

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nismos14

I'm movin on
Elite Member

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member
Last edited:

tzrox

New Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFx3cFiecVk&feature=youtu.be

So I ended up using something called "SteelStick" by JB Weld, which was more of a putty than anything else, and is holding the tip on. I'm going to ride with that for now until it falls off or something. Love the new sound, and when I can afford it, a full exhaust is in the works.

Edit: Not sure how to embed using youtube.
Can I ask how / what you did with the original tube. Did you leave it where it was cut off, or did you cut more of it off? Also how wide is the new hole? Finally, do you get a ton of low end "drone"? I just did mine yesterday and get really bad ringing in my ear from it lol.
 

TN6R

Member
Got my DIY Marthy exhaust kit and finally got around to cutting the box off the header. Adapter fit in real nice. I lined everything up and seems to fit the bike real well. I already welded the adapter into the header and so now just have to mount the exhaust back onto the bike tomorrow. I'll post pics and even sound perhaps but everyone knows sound videos suck compared to 'in person'.
 

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nismos14

I'm movin on
Elite Member

TN6R

Member
Got the exhaust DIY kit from Marthy finally installed. I got to say it was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. I won't even bother with a sound clip because it does ZERO justice compared to 'in person'. It's racy and pretty loud even with the Db killer. I think it's great and looks awesome on the bike. There's no question that people will know you're coming up on them so if you're worried about idiot drivers who can't make the look over their shoulder to see if you're there then get this exhaust. That'll solve that problem.
 

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Replaced the air filter, spark plugs, and changed the oil for the 24,000 mile service. Still need to change the coolant, and brake lines, but that can wait until after pay day.

After removing the airbox I noticed dirt around the intake seals, and what looked like oil where the intake flange seats into the seal. I thought I remember reading on here that because it is a ***** to get to the screws to tighten the clamps on the seals down to leave them a little loose, and just push the airbox on. I've done this since I first changed the plugs at 8,000 miles. I figure it's also why I'm seeing dirt and oil around the seals.

So, I decided to properly tighten the clamps this time. The outer two clamps are easy enough to get to. I saw that I could get a screwdriver to the other two, but I don't have metric hex bits. I found that a T-25 Torx bit is the same size as the 4mm hex, and used that instead. The middle right one was the hardest to get to because of some bracket crap in front of it.

I also bought a set of 3" screwdriver bits from harbor freight, and a set 3/8 drive long metric hex bits. Here's a link to the screwdriver set I bought; it was $10.

36 Pc 3 In Screwdriver Bit Set with Case
 

Amberfz6r

New Member
Replaced the air filter, spark plugs, and changed the oil for the 24,000 mile service. Still need to change the coolant, and brake lines, but that can wait until after pay day.

After removing the airbox I noticed dirt around the intake seals, and what looked like oil where the intake flange seats into the seal. I thought I remember reading on here that because it is a ***** to get to the screws to tighten the clamps on the seals down to leave them a little loose, and just push the airbox on. I've done this since I first changed the plugs at 8,000 miles. I figure it's also why I'm seeing dirt and oil around the seals.

So, I decided to properly tighten the clamps this time. The outer two clamps are easy enough to get to. I saw that I could get a screwdriver to the other two, but I don't have metric hex bits. I found that a T-25 Torx bit is the same size as the 4mm hex, and used that instead. The middle right one was the hardest to get to because of some bracket crap in front of it.

I also bought a set of 3" screwdriver bits from harbor freight, and a set 3/8 drive long metric hex bits. Here's a link to the screwdriver set I bought; it was $10.

36 Pc 3 In Screwdriver Bit Set with Case
Ran it threw car wash for deep clean
 

Big Ben

New Member
Brake Lines

Galfer braded brake lines front and rear.

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2012 FZ6R - PIAA Headlight, Puig Windscreen, PIAA horn, Frame Sliders, Two Brother's Exhaust, Power Commander, Tire Hugger, Seat Cowl, Galfer Brake lines...more to come
 

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Scott_Thomas

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Scott_Thomas

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Chris12

New Member
Last ride for me was some time in October, but weather here in PA has been getting nice (66 and sunny) so I took my baby for a ride and topped her off with some premium gas since the gas has been sitting for months. Man did I miss riding! Jealous of you people that live in warm climates year round.
Our high today in the SF Bay will be 57 degrees at 11:59pm tonight, we've got a storm rolling in. We don't really have a warm climate, just mild year round.

Looks good! I know this post is from November, but I just saw it. I did Galfer stainless steel brake lines front and rear at the end of the summer and new pads and fluid. Brakes stop on a dime with no fade now. Wish I had gotten red lines like yours, but I like the plain stainless look too.
I've given this some thought, and if I ever do it, I'll go with black colored SS (if it's offered), or plain SS if it's not.

It's just super hard to route colored lines and have them not detract from the lines of the bike. Accent colors are easy to over do.
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

leprecaun jon

ESTABLISHED RESIDENT
Elite Member

BluePill

Member
Beautiful weather today (70's and sunny).

Took the "Fizzer" out and beat the snot out of her.

Life is good.
 


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