So you changed the chain and both front and rear sprockets using parts for an FZR1000 ~ what year ? Were these steel or aluminum ?believe or not i'm running +1/-3!!!!
i had a new 532 chain in my shed, so i went to the bike shop and bought 17tooth and 43tooth for an fzr1000 ( a bike i also own), as the front spline is the same and the rear p.c.d. matchs.
The bike still pulls from the line without need to slip the clutch. It accelerates a touch slower in forst. It now is really sedate on A-roads and motorways- thought the speedo is under-reading by 5% according to my tomtom.
I'm very pleased with it, can't wait to get into Europe.
+1 up front = great!
- Thread starter Pizz
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linkgt
Member
So what's the general consensus on the sprocket change for front/rear just for correction of speed and to keep the stock chain? . I know for sure to go +1 for the front sprocket, but what about the rear sprocket?
I used the gearing commander website and found that a +1/-1 setup would yield almost identical results as a +1 front only. however +1/-1 shows a bit more speed.
I really would like to do only the front, but some of you guys are now mentioning the rear should be done as well to in order to keep even wear. Would i be able to keep 118 chain with -1 rear sprocket?
I used the gearing commander website and found that a +1/-1 setup would yield almost identical results as a +1 front only. however +1/-1 shows a bit more speed.
I really would like to do only the front, but some of you guys are now mentioning the rear should be done as well to in order to keep even wear. Would i be able to keep 118 chain with -1 rear sprocket?
So, actually +1/-1 would NOT yield identical results as a +1 only....if its showing your speed higher. Just get the +1 with the stock chain length and stock rear sprocket size. THIS will give you an accurate speedometer. How many miles do you have on your bike? I put on just the front without replacing the chain or rear at around 7500 miles I think...and its fine. I've replaced the chain once around the 20K something miles, but haven't replaced the rear yet. Although, most of my riding has been freeway commuting.
On the rear sprocket the change is about 150 rpm per tooth. I run 17/44 and Im 1 gear over drive. Meaning the stock 6 th is my 5 th. Not as good acceleration but since 95% of my riding is freeway its good for me.
linkgt
Member
Thanks for response. Yea I think i'll stick with +1 Front and stock 46 rear. I dont want to lose too much acceleration. I have 7400 miles on it. My only concern about changing the rear was because some here have said it's better so it can show even wear. But if you and others have been fine with just the front sprocket change, i'll do the same and leave the rear sprocket change for later.
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I can't speak to the -1 in the rear, but the +1 up front is the best mod I have done to the bike, hands down. I tend to prefer lots of freeway/highway touring on the 6R and the +1 has made my speedo dead accurate to my GPS and the RPM's are perfect at 75mph with very little vibration. Worth every penny in my opinion. Just today I took my teenage daughter for a ride, first time since changing the front sprocket, and there is zero reduction in performance that I can tell, even with a passenger.
linkgt
Member
I just got done installing the front sprocket with help. Not too bad and the nut came off easily. I guess since the bike was from 09, the locktite must've worn out or something. Anyway I'm also changing my tires to PR3's tomorrow so I wont get a chance to test this out till tomorrow night hopefully. I cant wait, it was bothering me that the bike gets an inaccurate speed reading and it should increase the top speed to something respectable for a 600cc. BTW has anyone been able to get to top speed with +1 sprocket?
UselessPickles
New Member
Don't expect much extra top speed. I haven't been able to find a very reliable top speed number yet, but I calculated the stock FZ6R's drag with an assumption of a top speed of 132mph (at 11000rpm). With the same assumptions about drag, the +1 up front comes out to a top speed of 133.7mph (at 10500rpm). I doubt you'll really notice that extra 1.7mph
UselessPickles
New Member
FYI - I did some more calculations. Given the above assumptions about the stock bike's max speed and aerodynamics, the max possible speed you could get out of the FZ6R by just changing the gearing would be 135.8mph with an overall reduction ratio (including the ratio of 6th gear) of 5.11:1, such that you reach 135.8mph at 9500rpm. To get near this ratio, you would need something like 18 front and 44 rear sprockets (+2/-2).Don't expect much extra top speed. I haven't been able to find a very reliable top speed number yet, but I calculated the stock FZ6R's drag with an assumption of a top speed of 132mph (at 11000rpm). With the same assumptions about drag, the +1 up front comes out to a top speed of 133.7mph (at 10500rpm). I doubt you'll really notice that extra 1.7mph
6R Blackout
New Member
Ok now I am curious, you got those figures from a bone stock bike, so if you were to put a +2-2 on a bike with say a complete exhaust, power commander and K&N airfilter then you may go faster than 135.8 mph correct?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Casey (aka) Hunter77!
UselessPickles
New Member
Yes. More HP = more potential speed (assuming the same vehicle aerodynamics), although the overall gearing to get that potential top speed would be different than on a stock bike.
Basically, you need to gear the bike such that peak power in top gear occurs at the same speed where the power required to overcome drag is equal to the peak power (as measured at the wheel, to account for drive train losses).
Also, don't expect large gains in top speed when you add power. Power required to overcome drag is based on speed raised to the 3rd power. For example, to get the FZ6R up to 140mph would be about a 3% increase in speed, but would require a bit more than 9% (1.03 ^ 3 = 1.092727) more HP than stock. As you increase power, you also have to adjust your gearing so that peak power is produced at the new top speed. If you don't adjust the gearing appropriately, then your top speed gains will be even less.
I always appreciate when someone actually know what he's talking about. Thanks!
So if you need 70 ponies to push your cycle to 138 MPH... it will go 138 MPH regardless of the gearing you use. You will get to a point where you won't have enough HP to go any faster. You will even reach a point where you might kill your top speed with too much high gear. I use 17/44 not to go faster, just to calm the engine down cursing 70-80 MPH. (6K=73mph, 7K=84 MPH) give and take...
If you want to go faster, work reducing drag! I work on speedway cars (Indy500) and every single crack in the body work are perfectly fit, bolts are counter sinks and as little as the seams can be, all the frontal area crack are tape with ultra thin clear tape.
All that from top to bottom... yes, even the underwing are important.
linkgt
Member
Thanks for the info guys! much appreciated.
UselessPickles
New Member
Nope. If it takes 70hp to go 138mph, and your bike peaks at 70hp @ 9500rpm, then you will only go 138mph if the bike is geared exactly so that you are going 138mph at 9500rpm. If the gearing is either higher or lower, then you will have a lower top speed.
hey guys, i got a few dumb questions about the +1 sprocket up front
1. is this the right part? driven sprocket - the info says 16/46 which is stock, but looking at the picture i only counted 15 teeth. is this the right part for +1? and what am i doing wrong that i can't count correctly?
2. what's the size (pitch?) of the drive chain? does it need to change with the +1 sprocket change?
1. is this the right part? driven sprocket - the info says 16/46 which is stock, but looking at the picture i only counted 15 teeth. is this the right part for +1? and what am i doing wrong that i can't count correctly?
2. what's the size (pitch?) of the drive chain? does it need to change with the +1 sprocket change?
It is the Driven 520 Part Number 35498, so yes you have the correct sprocket for the +1. And no, you do not need a new chain to go with this sprocket.hey guys, i got a few dumb questions about the +1 sprocket up front
1. is this the right part? driven sprocket - the info says 16/46 which is stock, but looking at the picture i only counted 15 teeth. is this the right part for +1? and what am i doing wrong that i can't count correctly?
2. what's the size (pitch?) of the drive chain? does it need to change with the +1 sprocket change?
Good choice to go for this. It is easy to install and you will like the results!!
UselessPickles
New Member
Yes. Relationship between tachometer and speedometer is wrong on the stock bike. +1 up front changes the actual relationship between RPM and speed to match what is displayed by the bike.
Part Number for the Driven 17T Front Sprocket
I ordered my Driven sprocket from BikeBandit.com their part number which shows up on my invoice is 3204817.
I am looking at the packaging my Driven front sprocket came in and on the barcode label is printed: P#: 1212-0858 V# 1041-520-17T SPROCKET FRT 520 17T
If you plug in either 1212-0858 or 1041-520-17T into Google your search query will return multiple retail sources for this sprocket.
The reason for the three part numbers? In the business of product supply you have three major levels that make up the supply chain which are Retail, Distribution, and Manufacturing. Retail uses SKU’s (Stock Keeping Unit) mostly to monitor sales. Distribution uses part numbers to monitor inventory levels. Manufacturing uses part numbers that correlate to a drawing specification, a bill of materials and a manufacturing procedure. Sometimes multiple levels can integrated within the same organization.
I installed this 17 tooth Driven sprocket with my last chain replacement and I agree with all the positive aspects of moving from the 16 tooth OEM sprocket stated in this forum. I highly recommend this mod.
I ordered my Driven sprocket from BikeBandit.com their part number which shows up on my invoice is 3204817.
I am looking at the packaging my Driven front sprocket came in and on the barcode label is printed: P#: 1212-0858 V# 1041-520-17T SPROCKET FRT 520 17T
If you plug in either 1212-0858 or 1041-520-17T into Google your search query will return multiple retail sources for this sprocket.
The reason for the three part numbers? In the business of product supply you have three major levels that make up the supply chain which are Retail, Distribution, and Manufacturing. Retail uses SKU’s (Stock Keeping Unit) mostly to monitor sales. Distribution uses part numbers to monitor inventory levels. Manufacturing uses part numbers that correlate to a drawing specification, a bill of materials and a manufacturing procedure. Sometimes multiple levels can integrated within the same organization.
I installed this 17 tooth Driven sprocket with my last chain replacement and I agree with all the positive aspects of moving from the 16 tooth OEM sprocket stated in this forum. I highly recommend this mod.