I'm not really sure what your trying to get at, but I'd rather know my speed is accurate and have my odometer off a little...but, then I guess I'm one of those "guys going nuts"! Most of us that have actually done this mod, do it for the lower RPM's when cruising extended freeway speeds. The speedo "showing" an accurate speed is just a bonus.
+1 up front = great!
- Thread starter Pizz
- Start date
1. I actually would like to do this mod to lower the rpms on the freeway. I agree on that.
2. I'd rather have my odometer be 100% accurate. Maintenence is based on it, I'd like an accurate reading how far I travelled. Speedo error is ok with me. When I buy a bike I'd like to know the mileage it shows is pretty accurate.
3. I just wanted to set the record straight about speedometers being largely optimistic, but odometers being largely accurate. I get tired of the "I got to fix my speedo, the odometer will read high because the speedo does" posts.
That is all.
Feel free to mod!
I love it.
nucmedman63
New Member
All the ??? about how many rpm you cruise at with the 1+ not to be mean but with the 1+ your tach and speed o still read the "same" the only thing new is you are realy doing 70mph when it says 70.
installed my +1 from Driven a few weeks ago and im happy with the results. the install was easy enough and didnt take long. im not dragging behind traffic when i think im going 80mph anymore which is nice.
the vibration is still there at around 6k or 70mph. but that goes away as usual when i stay below or pass that point. other plp have commented on the same thing occurring with their 6r so im not too shook up about this as it happened with my stock 16T.
the 17T front sprocket has lowered my rpms a little. when im in 6th gear, my rpm are pretty much 900-1000 revs below my speed... in practice, if i was traveling 80mph my bike would be pulling 7k rpm. at 70mph, then 6k rpm ect ect....
the acceleration difference is noticeable between the 17T and the 16T oem front sprocket. however, after riding the 17T for a week you wont be able to tell the difference because by this time you will have forgotten what the extra pull felt like and will have nothing to compare the 17T sprocket to. point being, dont let the acceleration be a negative aspect associated with this upgrade.
i recently rode up north from Detroit, MI to Boyne City, MI. the ride there was 290 miles and took roughly 4 hours with a stop for gas. i was happy with the upgrade and rode 220miles before refueling my tank. i rode 30 miles on empty.
the vibration is still there at around 6k or 70mph. but that goes away as usual when i stay below or pass that point. other plp have commented on the same thing occurring with their 6r so im not too shook up about this as it happened with my stock 16T.
the 17T front sprocket has lowered my rpms a little. when im in 6th gear, my rpm are pretty much 900-1000 revs below my speed... in practice, if i was traveling 80mph my bike would be pulling 7k rpm. at 70mph, then 6k rpm ect ect....
the acceleration difference is noticeable between the 17T and the 16T oem front sprocket. however, after riding the 17T for a week you wont be able to tell the difference because by this time you will have forgotten what the extra pull felt like and will have nothing to compare the 17T sprocket to. point being, dont let the acceleration be a negative aspect associated with this upgrade.
i recently rode up north from Detroit, MI to Boyne City, MI. the ride there was 290 miles and took roughly 4 hours with a stop for gas. i was happy with the upgrade and rode 220miles before refueling my tank. i rode 30 miles on empty.
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I dunno, I put the 17 toother on about 130 miles into ownership.
I can't believe I'm the only one with this problem- the plastic chain guide rubbed against the chain with the new, bigger sprocket. Last week I pulled it off and cut it down, and since then my gas mileage increased a full 20%. from 45 mpg to 55 mpg, that's a huge difference. Has nobody else experienced this?
I can't believe I'm the only one with this problem- the plastic chain guide rubbed against the chain with the new, bigger sprocket. Last week I pulled it off and cut it down, and since then my gas mileage increased a full 20%. from 45 mpg to 55 mpg, that's a huge difference. Has nobody else experienced this?
going from the stock front sprocket to my 17T, there has been a small difference in acceleration. again, it is noticeable for the first few rides you take and then you forget about it. unless you have a friend with a stock fz6r front sprocket OR constantly switch between a 17T and the 16T you are going to forget what the difference in acceleration was when you first did it; because it is that minimal.
no problems with my 17T by Driven. as far as the mpg. mine is above 50 on the highway and below that in the city. this is after the 17T install. no idea what it was with the stock... i accelerate hard (cause its fun) and ride around 75-85mph on the highway.
minor. And, no stock chain length is good.
Checking the facts..
My husband noted his FJR had a speedometer that was not accurate (read low) and used a Speed Healer to correct the issue. He then used radar and government kilometer posts to verify the results. Note that it was the government distance check posts that confirmed his speedo was reading low as the speedo and odo are a combined unit, not separate as stated in an earlier post.
Having said this, my FZ6R also came with a incorrectly calibrated speedometer(read low), but we chose to use the change of sprocket to correct the issue along with the reduction in bar buzz. My speedometer is now reading the correct speed when I check with my husband over the Scala instead of being low. The odometer is now is verfied accurate using the government distance posts instead of reading low.
If the odometer and speedometer were not in unison, it would not be possible for the correction of the speedometer (Speed Healer or sprocket) to correct the odometer that can be verified by government kilometer check posts.
My husband noted his FJR had a speedometer that was not accurate (read low) and used a Speed Healer to correct the issue. He then used radar and government kilometer posts to verify the results. Note that it was the government distance check posts that confirmed his speedo was reading low as the speedo and odo are a combined unit, not separate as stated in an earlier post.
Having said this, my FZ6R also came with a incorrectly calibrated speedometer(read low), but we chose to use the change of sprocket to correct the issue along with the reduction in bar buzz. My speedometer is now reading the correct speed when I check with my husband over the Scala instead of being low. The odometer is now is verfied accurate using the government distance posts instead of reading low.
If the odometer and speedometer were not in unison, it would not be possible for the correction of the speedometer (Speed Healer or sprocket) to correct the odometer that can be verified by government kilometer check posts.
Thanks for your post. There only appears to be one person that thinks they are separate and we are all "nuts", but has no proof like the rest of us do that have actually done the mod and verified it. :thumbup:
no one seems to get this, nucmedman63 is right. the speedometer sensor is in the gearbox on the output shaft (I assume because my rpm's vs. speed indicated didn't change at all with a 17T front sprocket)....you could put a 25 tooth front sprocket on this thing and the speedometer and rpms will still be synchronized....your actual speed will differ. I thought I was going to have to relearn the 6th gear rpm's vs. speed so I knew when I was in top gear and wasn't looking for another gear, but I soon realized that they are the same no matter what sprocket combo you have. so if your rpm's are down with a sprocket combo, it's because you're doing a different speed than before, because if you showed the same speed on the speedo, you'd be at the same rpm as before the sprocket swap....
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The way it was described to me is like with an engine....if the timing is off it damages the chain over time. Now this could be 5 days-3 years who knows. But what its doing is transferring the lag from wear from the rear sprocket not being replaced and transferred that wear to the front in order to even the chains course out, essentially wearing out both sprockets and the chain alot faster. By changing both out you will get a smoother shift along with not having any excess wear on the new sprocket.
there you go thuper mod
there you go thuper mod
No you can change one or the other, even both if you want. It is better to change everything together... (Chain and sprockets) If you have a lot of mileage on you chain and rear sprocket you should wait to change your front sprocket. Because as the chain and sprockets wear out they kind of "match wear" each other. Changing only one might make it wear down quickly.
When I change my rear for 38T, I had only 350 miles or so. No issue there. When it was time... I change both sprocket and chain. Tires too...
Just like I said...in a more simple form :thumbup:
I think you'll be ok unless you're doing first gear clutch wheelies all the time... pretty sure the front and rear are both steel on this bike. if one or the other were aluminum I'd worry, but at most I'd get a new chain. can you see wear on the rear sprocket honestly? doubt it.