+1 up front = great!


Pizz

New Member
"How to" instructions for this mod

At the request of Roaddog in another thread, I'll post up the how to on this mod.

0) Before starting determine whether you are going to use a new sprocket nut or reuse the existing. I reused the existing. A new one will require a trip to your dealer.

-There are 2 steps that require a second person.

-No special tools where used. Ratchet and sockets, allen keys, torque wrench, screwdriver, hammer, wrenches.



1) Place bike on a rear stand and remove the main chain guard.

2) Remove the drive sprocket cover (item 4 from the picture)

3) Tricky part - The drive sprocket nut (item 5) has a small lip that has about 1/8" deformed into the channel that is cut in the spline shaft. You need to use a small flat head screwdriver (or similar) to start to straighten it out. This will allow you to loosen it with less force. I didn't try to remove the nut before doing this, so I don't know if you can just take it off. You will need someone to press down firmly on the rear brake lever while you remove the nut. Remove the nut (5).

4) Loosen the rear axle nut.

5) Loosen both locknuts on each side of the swing arm and back them off.

6) Push the rear wheel assembly forward as far as it will go. This will create slack in the chain to remove it from the rear sprocket.

7) Remove chain from rear sprocket. Let it hang there.

8) Remove the Shift arm from its spline (3) and rotate the shift rod back towards the rear of the bike (need to do this to get clearance). Make sure you mark the location of the shift arem on the spline so you can put it back in the same place.

9) Remove the washer (6) and sprocket (7), with the chain.

10) Take the chain off the sprocket and put it on the new sprocket, before you attempt to put the new sprocket on the spline shaft. Make sure you orient it correctly. With the Driven sprocket, only one side has chamfers to allow easy alignment with the spline shaft.

11) Tricky part - You will need to work with the chain position to allow the new sprocket to slide onto the spline shaft.

12) Tricky part - the chain placed on the larger diameter sprocket (+1 tooth) creates a slight interference with the plastic chain guard that sits a couple inches above the spline shaft. You will need to force the chain under the chain guard. I tapped mine on with a rubber mallet.

13) Place the chain over the rear sprocket and rotate it onto the rear sprocket. Test the installation by hand to ensure it rotates freely.

14) Reassemble all the bits.

15) Set your chain tension.

16) Take a slow test ride to check out your install. Stop and check the chain for alignment and tension, to make sure nothing moved.
 

Spunky99

New Member
I did the +1 sprocket tonight. Here are a few corrections to an otherwise great writeup, PIZZ...



Correction......remove the plastic part and slide the sprocket, chain and the plastic piece together onto the spline. It's easy, just go slow and you damage nothing. No rubber mallet needed!

The new sprocket has a raised lip on one side. Install with the lip towards the engine to properly align the sprocket and chain.


Be careful and use some towels as I ended up scratching the inside of the rim. A little touch up paint will fix it but could have been avoided.



Correction......disconnect the shift linkage by loosening the bolt under the rubber dust boot. Leave the spline alone. Don't lose the washer.
If you use the teflon lube, spray some onto the shift linkage under the rubber before reassembly.

Make sure you tap a new detent in the bolt that holds on the sprocket. That way it can't spin off or on.

I did this alone and if you leave the engine in gear, sit on the bike and hold down on the brake, you can do it but it is a slow and painful process. I got cramps from bending over and my glasses wanted to fall off constantly.

The original sprocket has plastic on both sides and the new one is bare. Just ignore the difference and put on the new one.
 

Spunky99

New Member
Rode 120 miles this weekend to motorcycle club get togethers both Sat and Sun. I did the +1 sprocket on Friday night and filled up the tank and garaged the bike overnight. Almost all freeway driving and I filled up on sunday before I garaged her. 47.8 mpg and I drove at 70 + mph the whole way except a couple of spots where I did some lane splitting and had to stop for a burned car last night. Raced a couple of bikes after the burnt car stop and drove at 90 mph for a while.

If I could keep it steady at 65 mph with no slowdowns, I bet I could get 50 mpg with the new gearing. We will see.

Bumble Bee (Yamaha FZ6R) | Fuelly
 

Roaddawg

New Member
Rode 120 miles this weekend to motorcycle club get togethers both Sat and Sun. I did the +1 sprocket on Friday night and filled up the tank and garaged the bike overnight. Almost all freeway driving and I filled up on sunday before I garaged her. 47.8 mpg and I drove at 70 + mph the whole way except a couple of spots where I did some lane splitting and had to stop for a burned car last night. Raced a couple of bikes after the burnt car stop and drove at 90 mph for a while.

If I could keep it steady at 65 mph with no slowdowns, I bet I could get 50 mpg with the new gearing. We will see.

Bumble Bee (Yamaha FZ6R) | Fuelly
Do you think your odometer was before with the stock gear? I know there has been some discussion about this. I would think it is off if the speedo is off as well. I have yet to try the milepost marker thing yet. Maybe I'll do that before I put in the +1 gear.

I was wondering this as it may throw the MPG's we figure with the stock setup. And, if your now pretty close to accurate, then that's a good thing. Based on the stock gearing, I usually get 46-48 MPG. But, if this is inaccurate (8%+/-), then I should definitely get 50+ with the +1 gear.

Let us know how you average.
 

Spunky99

New Member
Do you think your odometer was before with the stock gear? I know there has been some discussion about this. I would think it is off if the speedo is off as well. I have yet to try the milepost marker thing yet. Maybe I'll do that before I put in the +1 gear.

I was wondering this as it may throw the MPG's we figure with the stock setup. And, if your now pretty close to accurate, then that's a good thing. Based on the stock gearing, I usually get 46-48 MPG. But, if this is inaccurate (8%+/-), then I should definitely get 50+ with the +1 gear.

Let us know how you average.
I'll start riding with a wristwatch GPS (Garmin Forerunner 205) and see both speedo error and mileage as it tracks the course perfectly.
 

Roaddawg

New Member
I did the milepost marker check on the way home today. With the stock gearing and at an actual mile the odometer flipped to 1.10 miles right after I past the 1 mile. I estimated about 1.07-1.08 miles on the odometer at an actual one mile. ( I know it only reads in tenths....just my rough estimate).

So, I wonder how close it puts you now with the +1. I'll test is out once I get mine installed as well.
 

kevcoop

New Member
So I was thinking of going -1front, +2rear. Would that have a positive affect on MPG?
Any negitive affects?
I drive 83 miles round trip to work and am looking for any savings.

I can get adeal on some driven sprockets and am wondering if I should.
 

Roaddawg

New Member
So I was thinking of going -1front, +2rear. Would that have a positive affect on MPG?
Any negitive affects?
I drive 83 miles round trip to work and am looking for any savings.

I can get adeal on some driven sprockets and am wondering if I should.
Just curious, did you read this thread in its entirety? I think you've got it backwards. +1 on the front is better for freeway driving because it lowers the RPM at cruise, hence a little better MPG, but your acceleration won't be as quick. Like from my post example above: RPM @65 MPH: Stock gearing= 5417 RPM, +1 front= 5099 RPM, -1/+2= 6030RPM -1 front/+2 rear will give you quicker acceleration, higher RPM's, but lower your top speed because you'll redline faster. Use this setup too if you want to pop wheelies easier. So, if you want savings and you commute at freeway speeds, then +1 is what you'd want.
 
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kevcoop

New Member
Yea, I figured it out after typing it.
After reading all the threads, I was confused.

Thanks Roaddawg...
 
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pyrocpu

New Member
Rode 120 miles this weekend to motorcycle club get togethers both Sat and Sun. I did the +1 sprocket on Friday night and filled up the tank and garaged the bike overnight. Almost all freeway driving and I filled up on sunday before I garaged her. 47.8 mpg and I drove at 70 + mph the whole way except a couple of spots where I did some lane splitting and had to stop for a burned car last night. Raced a couple of bikes after the burnt car stop and drove at 90 mph for a while.

If I could keep it steady at 65 mph with no slowdowns, I bet I could get 50 mpg with the new gearing. We will see.

Bumble Bee (Yamaha FZ6R) | Fuelly
Hey! That's my average fuel economy right now, on the FZ6R!
Fizzer (Yamaha FZ6R) | Fuelly
 

Uno979

Thuper Moderator
Premium Member

tractorboy

New Member
I see most people are concerned of the revs. Its a high rever but im MUCH MORE interested in doing the mod for the speedometer reading more accurate vs "guessing" what is the right speed. NO not a big deal but it just bugs me knowing its so far off though.

Im into this for the correct speedo vs anything else........
Im used to a 2 stroke dirtbike and it LIKE high revs so its not a problem on the 6R but yea guys...she needs to be in that higher rainge..sounds wierd at first but you;ll get used to it.

my 5 cents. with inflation its not 2cents anymore!
 

arkkornkid

New Member
I'm like you: in for a more correct speedo.

The revs aren't a concern for sportbikes, and particularly this one considering the quiet exhaust. My s2k drones more than my FZ.
 

Roaddawg

New Member
I'm with you both too on the speedo. I figure $30 to fix speedo problem is worth the 300-400 RPM change. And, since my primary riding is commute, the lower revs are ok too.
 

pilninggas

New Member
believe or not i'm running +1/-3!!!!

i had a new 532 chain in my shed, so i went to the bike shop and bought 17tooth and 43tooth for an fzr1000 ( a bike i also own), as the front spline is the same and the rear p.c.d. matchs.

The bike still pulls from the line without need to slip the clutch. It accelerates a touch slower in forst. It now is really sedate on A-roads and motorways- thought the speedo is under-reading by 5% according to my tomtom.

I'm very pleased with it, can't wait to get into Europe.:D
 

CDN6R

New Member
I went with the +1 gearing on the front sprocket too. So far I like it and I haven't really noticed much difference in acceleration,but crizin at 110 KMS/HR my right hand no longer tingles and goes to sleep!.
 

Chaos

Member
So what would a -1 in the front do with leaving the rear stock?
 

toddjcruz

New Member
Did 17/43 as well, speedo-healer to adjust correclt. Wonderful. 5800 at 75 mpg and runing under 5000 most of the time on the back roads. Yeah, you need to drop down a gear to do some stuff, but when you do, it's almost the same as before. No drawback to this other than a taller 1st, so if you want to pop wheelies, this isnt your mod. But if you drive 75-85 all the time, this mod is a MUST. 59 mpg (actual, not the fake you get from a stock setup as the speedo is off 8%-9%, thus giving you fake MPG).

Get over 200 miles before my reserve begins to flash. Thats wonderful when you are doing rides out in the middle of nowhere. Plus I know my engine will be getting a lot less wear and tear.
 

porky45

New Member
So what would a -1 in the front do with leaving the rear stock?
increase acceleration a bit (raising rpm at crusing speed) and throw your spedometer off more.
 


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