So are you saying that i don't need to install a lowering link, that all i need to do to the rear is install a new shorter spring?
If you can get your hands on it, there is a rear shock/spring combo that is designed for lowering this bike. I think it's made for he XJ6, but can be found somehwere on-line. I haven't been able to find it since I saw it once or twice on here before. That is the ideal way to do the lowering of this bike IMO.
Again, unless you ride the bike FAST you are unlikely to notice much difference in the rear shock's performance. If anything, it iprobably has some benefits for normal riding conditions ~ even with the shorter spring and lowering link we still have to put the shock on it's lowest setting to get the bike to sit lower, and the slight increase in the shock's rising rate due to the change in shock angle helps to keep the bike from bottoming out over bumps.
But it does make the shock 'firmer' in terms of what is being referred to here as damping. I suppose if you ride it faster than you really should and are unfortunate to encounter a bump or depression that is big enough to overwhelm the modified suspension you will be sorry. I have heard 'stories' about people on lowered bikes that crashed while trying to keep up with their friends, and after riding for 26 yrs I honestly believe it was the 'keeping up' part that caused them to biff, and not their bike. They got in way over their head and just didn't have the judgement to know it until it was too late.
But if you intend to ride the bike like that, you need to get enough skills to figure out how to deal with it as-is without lowering it and find a closed course with nearby medical personnel. Or maybe just find something less dangerous to do.
For us, the combination of shorter spring and lowering link was necessary to get the bike to a height that would allow my wife to ride it.
Until the day a manufacturer puts a YZF sportbike motor into a chassis with a seat height that accomodates 5' people this is what will be required to get what some people want.
I think that even if you did modify the shock internally to adjust for the change in rising rate, you are going to find the decrease in ground clearance from lowering is going to limit how sporty you can get on it anyway. To me, that seems like a lot of money to change something that you don't need if you just realize the bike is going to be a little more limited than it was stock, and the real problem is your legs are too frackin' short LOL.
But it does make the shock 'firmer' in terms of what is being referred to here as damping. I suppose if you ride it faster than you really should and are unfortunate to encounter a bump or depression that is big enough to overwhelm the modified suspension you will be sorry. I have heard 'stories' about people on lowered bikes that crashed while trying to keep up with their friends, and after riding for 26 yrs I honestly believe it was the 'keeping up' part that caused them to biff, and not their bike. They got in way over their head and just didn't have the judgement to know it until it was too late.
But if you intend to ride the bike like that, you need to get enough skills to figure out how to deal with it as-is without lowering it and find a closed course with nearby medical personnel. Or maybe just find something less dangerous to do.
For us, the combination of shorter spring and lowering link was necessary to get the bike to a height that would allow my wife to ride it.
Until the day a manufacturer puts a YZF sportbike motor into a chassis with a seat height that accomodates 5' people this is what will be required to get what some people want.
I think that even if you did modify the shock internally to adjust for the change in rising rate, you are going to find the decrease in ground clearance from lowering is going to limit how sporty you can get on it anyway. To me, that seems like a lot of money to change something that you don't need if you just realize the bike is going to be a little more limited than it was stock, and the real problem is your legs are too frackin' short LOL.
Last edited:
I'm quite sure. Other than colors the bike hasn't change since 2009
indian9990
New Member
I just read through this whole post. It's very helpful. I'm thinking about shopping around for the part. I need like an inch at most and i'll be good. I just want to be flat footed when I come to a stop 
I was really hesitant about wanting to do this but after reading this thread it helped a lot
I was really hesitant about wanting to do this but after reading this thread it helped a lot
For Cobalt or anyone that can weigh in on this for me please. I recently had some service done which required the mechanic to remove the rear shock and the Roaring Toyz lowering link. I picked it up yesterday and right now am working on my bike and noticed that they put the lowering link on wrong. They put it on the way that it is in the picture below labeled 'incorrect'. It got me thinking, why exactly does it have to be installed the way the picture shows? I'm not saying Cobalt is wrong. I believe he is showing the proper way to do it, I'm just curious why that is the proper way. Does installing it the below "incorrect" way restrict the movement of the spring? Does it put pressure on the wrong places? Does it cause the spring to be angled incorrectly? Etc... I'd just like to get a better understanding of the mechanics of it all and what potential hazards I would have encountered if I had not noticed this error.
I appreciate any input.
I appreciate any input.
Lift the bike using the jack or hoist until the rear wheel is off the ground. This allows you the space needed to place the link and bolt on the shock. Holding the front of the link, align the link holes with the shock and insert the bolt from the left side of the bike.
With the bolt in place, slowly lower the bike until you can tilt the link into the stock shock mount.
Be sure the link is seated like this and NOT like the second picture below!!!
Once the link is in place as shown in the first picture, raise the bike until the link is aligned and insert the stock shock bolt through the retaining bar first then the mount and link.
I really was going to do this 100% when I got my bike but several people said if you can get the balls of your feet down to leave it alone. Backing up is the only real issue I have or odd angles. Im just curious ROB how you like it and if you think any ill effects? Im trying to get my seats redone and if they get any higher I will def. have to do something.
alternative also is to find riding boots with a bit a of a heal. I got some with a 1" heal make a huge dif
I also have a trick if you will.
at all stops I just flat foot my left leg and keep my right leg on the rear brake.
you a midget too? Lol
I do that sometimes too. Its not really that bad for me, I almost always wear my boots and really it only bothers me backing up which is why I never got the link. I may have to consider it though if my seat height gets raised when I have it done.
im only 5'-7" so I am a few inches just shy of it being appropriate
yea I know what you mean on backing up. what I do is always park in first move forward and or back the bike up by rolling it / walking alongside before I even gear up and hop on I rarely have to back up while in route anywhere
I'm 6' so I didn't need to do it for any height issues. I did it because I installed clip on handlebars. As a result I had to lower the front end in order to install them. As I've learned from this site, if you lower one end of the bike it is important to lower the other end the same amount to keep the ergonomics of the bike even. I was also getting wrist strain from only having the front lowered and after lowering the rear to match that wrist strain went away. With regards to the handling of the bike, I'm no expert so I can't give a good review of that. I personally haven't noticed any ill effects, but I also ride in very basic conditions and rarely on the highway.
Just did this install. I didn't have a hoist, managed to get it done solo using a rear swing arm stand, a jack, and two jack stands. Took about 2 hours to do it and the kickstand. Not too difficult. If I had another set of hands or a hoist it would have been a alot easier. That being said. It is too cold to ride as of yet, but will post my thoughts when I am done. I am a highway rider and often spirited at that. I also have the woodcraft clip-ons installed so I will let you know what I think of the geometry of the bike now and how it rides.
congrats on getting it done on your own. Interested to hear of any cons. I just got my custom seat back and it is a little higher. I lowered the spring setting to 1 and that seemed to help a little but something like this would end the situation once and for all. Of course that would make it a really expensive seat mod since i already spent close to 200 on the seat and I would def. have to bring the link in and have it done.