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FZ1inNH
Super Moderator
Nice! Glad to see they are using them! Thanks for the post. So... did they give me any credit for the instructions?
It's a great product!
fzbrooke
New Member
Nice! Glad to see they are using them! Thanks for the post. So... did they give me any credit for the instructions?
It's a great product!
I will dig them out and check. I did rave about you post/pics to the guy at Roaring Toyz when I ordered the parts. The bike has done great since I installed the parts. I lowered the front 1 1/2 inches.
Jenn62501
New Member
what type of Jack/Hoist do you have? :justkidding:
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FZ1inNH
Super Moderator
It's on sale again too! Works great if you have the rafters to support it and the load of the bike. My garage has loft rafters with a 10/12 pitch thus holds quite a bit of weight. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
ajkewler
New Member
I just ordered the roaring toyz lowering links today and hoping they'll arrive some time this week. After reading through your sticky I wanted to ask if it would be okay if I only lifted the rear of the bike on the swing arm or would I have to support the weight of the bike in the front too? I have one of those stands that lift the bike from the swing arm which I use to adjust the chain, would this be enough for me to install the lowering link?
I would really like to install this myself at my own free time rather than work around the hours of operation of a dealer again. I've added a image of how I have it lifted right now, at least I think its attached on this reply.
I would really like to install this myself at my own free time rather than work around the hours of operation of a dealer again. I've added a image of how I have it lifted right now, at least I think its attached on this reply.
MikeN02
New Member
When you lower it you would have to adjust the front to be lowered with the rear. Keep this in mind when you do lower it. Therefore I would imagine you need the front to be stable as well.
ajkewler
New Member
I was thinking of only lowering the front between 3/4 of a inch to a inch and the rear 1 and 3/4 inches, would this be okay or is it recommended to lower the front the same distance as the rear? I read on this forum that some peopole do that but didn't really say anything negative about either.
MikeN02
New Member
I'm not sure on the specifics but if I recall the front and rear has different lowering measurements.
Maybe someone could shed light on this even further.
NoDoze
New Member
Here's mine! Got it lowered today with the RT link (plus RT kickstand) and it made a huge difference for my confidence, can you say night and day? Being of short stature (5'2") and short inseam, I can now put both balls of my feet down with thick-soled boots 
The forks were lowered by 3/4" as suggested and the ride has been great, if anything a little bit more responsive.
Thanks for the instructions and guidance everyone!
Joe (NoDoze)
The forks were lowered by 3/4" as suggested and the ride has been great, if anything a little bit more responsive.
Thanks for the instructions and guidance everyone!
Joe (NoDoze)
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FZ1inNH
Super Moderator
Awesome Joe! Thanks for posting up. Glad my instructions were helpful.
My wife has traded up to the FZ1 which I've lowered with an adjustable link. The guy who took the FZ6R also has a short inseam and is loving the low profile of the bike. He almost bought an FZ6 which is very high and is almost impossible to lower. The RT kit is simple and well designed yet does a very effective job.
I like the blue bike the best. Looks GREAT!!!
My wife has traded up to the FZ1 which I've lowered with an adjustable link. The guy who took the FZ6R also has a short inseam and is loving the low profile of the bike. He almost bought an FZ6 which is very high and is almost impossible to lower. The RT kit is simple and well designed yet does a very effective job.
I like the blue bike the best. Looks GREAT!!!
SAFE-T
New Member
I was wondering why they chose 1.75" as the target when they designed the linkage block ?
Is there not enough room under the seat for a 2" drop or is it something else ? Perhaps there is only enough clearance with the bars/fork tubes to drop the front end 1.75" so that is the amount they chose... just wondering.
Is there not enough room under the seat for a 2" drop or is it something else ? Perhaps there is only enough clearance with the bars/fork tubes to drop the front end 1.75" so that is the amount they chose... just wondering.
NoDoze
New Member
I read an article from Sport Rider saying that...
The article can be found here:
Lowering Your Bike Safely - Sport Rider magazine
The article can be found here:
Lowering Your Bike Safely - Sport Rider magazine
SAFE-T
New Member
Before the FZ6R, we had a GS500 we dropped 1.5"
It would touch the centrestand occassionally with rider and passenger, but never did touch the footpegs. If you were only going to ride it solo, it probably could have been lowered another 1/2". We saw different suspension linkages that would lower it up to 3"
I think the limiting factor may be suspension travel before ground clearance in some cases. I don't think the aftermarket link makers really put that much thought into it ~ they certainly don't seem to be able to give much of a definitive answer as to how much a specific bike can be lowered safely.
Sport Rider's article suggests you can only SAFELY lower the front end 0.59" (15mm) but at the same time it is important to retain the stock chassis attitude. Which means you can only PROPERLY lower your bike less than 2/3 of an inch.
What I don't understand is why manufacturers don't make sportbikes with lower rear subframes, which would allow them to retain the original ground clearance.
It would touch the centrestand occassionally with rider and passenger, but never did touch the footpegs. If you were only going to ride it solo, it probably could have been lowered another 1/2". We saw different suspension linkages that would lower it up to 3"
I think the limiting factor may be suspension travel before ground clearance in some cases. I don't think the aftermarket link makers really put that much thought into it ~ they certainly don't seem to be able to give much of a definitive answer as to how much a specific bike can be lowered safely.
Sport Rider's article suggests you can only SAFELY lower the front end 0.59" (15mm) but at the same time it is important to retain the stock chassis attitude. Which means you can only PROPERLY lower your bike less than 2/3 of an inch.
What I don't understand is why manufacturers don't make sportbikes with lower rear subframes, which would allow them to retain the original ground clearance.
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I'm just curious here. Looking at the picture the angle of the shock is different from the stock configuration. Doing so will change the rising rate. Does anybody who use this bracket fell any difference in spring rate? (My educated guess is the bike should feel softer???) Do you need to use 1 clic stiffer? Just wondering... Good job on the "How too"
SAFE-T
New Member
Probably not at street-legal speeds.
NoDoze
New Member
At street speed, no I have not felt anything different from the suspension. From the looks of it mechanically, the rear shock was kept at the same angle, the spring wasn't modified and the link basically allowed the shock to be mounted higher thus lowering the rear end. The front forks were moved up 3/4" on the triple clamp to compensate.
To be honest, I think what changed most for me is my confidence to ride the bike without worrying of not being able to plant my foot down quick and far enough to support the bike at stops (or emergency stops). For the first few days, I was worried that the bike would bottom out on speed bumps, but there's really a lot of clearance not to. If anything, the bike responds faster.
Now, I know the lean angle is compromised so I'm thinking of getting MFW Wolf aftermarket foot pegs to at least move it up an inch from the standard mount.
As shown on bigguybbr's bike:
I hope I don't scrape on the twisties, then again I am not aggressive when I ride there.
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ChUcK
New Member
FWIW, this install is possible without removing the gas tank from the pivot joint. At least, I was able to remove the link without gas tank removal.
End up installing the lowering link so my wife can ride the 6R... if I get another bike soon. Well, look like I miss out on the FZ1 (different thread) No biggie!
Well, thanks for the quick reference, that was useful. I kind of mtrfr that thing for few minues, wasn't fitting on my bike. The alum. part was bottoming out and the hole wasn't lining up. So I had to wack about 1/8" for the link to go in deeper. I started the front at 32mm down (i was already 6mm down)
All done now, I'll cut the stand sometime later this week, it work ok for now... just need to be careful.
But one important thing here... chain adjustment. It need to be readjusted. Right before I did my sprocket (46 light black steel) change and adjust the chain at 45mm, it was 25mm or so after the big drop. Make sure you at least double check it...
Thanks again for the "How too..."
Well, thanks for the quick reference, that was useful. I kind of mtrfr that thing for few minues, wasn't fitting on my bike. The alum. part was bottoming out and the hole wasn't lining up. So I had to wack about 1/8" for the link to go in deeper. I started the front at 32mm down (i was already 6mm down)
All done now, I'll cut the stand sometime later this week, it work ok for now... just need to be careful.
But one important thing here... chain adjustment. It need to be readjusted. Right before I did my sprocket (46 light black steel) change and adjust the chain at 45mm, it was 25mm or so after the big drop. Make sure you at least double check it...
Thanks again for the "How too..."
Forgive me if this has been stated already but the tank does not have to be completely taken off correct? It can simply be tilted up and the bolts accessed with the tank pivoted back?
