Oil Filter?

[JSP]

"pre-fill with a couple of cap fulls", it's just enough to "coat" the media, not much more. As I said, I'm not sure it's necessary, I just do it out of habit.

This is good advise... its recommended so the bike is not starting dry of oil. It might not make tooo much of a difference but its good piece of mind. I think my trucks manual even says to do this... Like Dart says, dont fill it full to where it will drain all over when you tip it on the side, just enough so the filter media soaks it all up.

And the Purolator Pure One filters are excellent filters :thumbup:

 

[cbzdel]

save your money, buy the Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6, and mostly available from any local automotive parts store. If a dealer tries to give you the line about " you might void your warranty", just mention the "the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" that says if they want to pay for it, provide ALL parts/labor, then they can force you to use their parts or void it.

Just remember, DON'T tighten any more than "hand tight", oil the gasket, pre-fill with a couple of cap fulls of oil (thought I don't know it's needed, I still do it). Next oil change if you need more than some "elbow grease" to remove it, you overtightened it the last time.

But that filter doesn't sport the nifty welded on socket adapter or lock wire holes

 

[Roaddawg]

FYI, I just bought SIX of the Purolator Pure One PL14612 on Amazon for $28.44 with free delivery. (That's $4.74 each!!) Since I just rolled over 12,000 miles and I've only had the bike for 11 months, I figured I would save some money and buy bulk. I've been using K&N, but at $15 bucks a pop, I can buy three Pure One's. Also, I have heard nothing but good about the Purolator's.

I also bought 4 of the NGK CR9EIX (the iridium spark plugs) on Amazon for $7.40 a piece, with free shipping!!

 

[travstoll]

What about warranties , oil and filters?...Do you have to use yamaha filter and oil to retain the warranty or can I use something else?

 

[Roaddawg]

What about warranties , oil and filters?...Do you have to use yamaha filter and oil to retain the warranty or can I use something else?

No need to only use OEM. My dealer mechanic said just to make sure you do the oil changes every 4k and to keep your receipts when you buy the stuff. In your owners manual, there is a section to write in the date of your servicing. I also keep all the receipts with the book.

 

[travstoll]

No need to only use OEM. My dealer mechanic said just to make sure you do the oil changes every 4k and to keep your receipts when you buy the stuff. In your owners manual, there is a section to write in the date of your servicing. I also keep all the receipts with the book.

Thank you. Very good to know.

 

[dart1963]

If a dealer tries to give you the line about " you might void your warranty", just mention the "the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" that says if they want to pay for it, provide ALL parts/labor, then they can force you to use their parts or void it.

travstoll, I had a line about some law that was passed about manufacturers/salesmen trying to pass it off like you'd void the warranty in another thread, someone else knew which it was and posted... just search Magnuson–Moss and you'll get the info if it ever does come up.

 

[MikeN02]

Yeah they mentioned something about how if they say you'll void the warranty if you do your own first service then they have to do it for free.

I haven't gotten to the 4k mark yet, about half way there but it'll be my first oil change on anything (car included) so I'm a little excited/scared of messing it up.

 

[travstoll]

Yeah they mentioned something about how if they say you'll void the warranty if you do your own first service then they have to do it for free.

I haven't gotten to the 4k mark yet, about half way there but it'll be my first oil change on anything (car included) so I'm a little excited/scared of messing it up.

Doing your own maintenance is something you will have to start doing regularly if you want to own a bike, unless you are $loaded$. They are money pits. Every time you turn around, they need new chains, fresh rubber, oil change....and sooo much more. Good luck in your adventure into the world of moto-maintenance.

 

[FitZ6R]

Doing your own maintenance is something you will have to start doing regularly if you want to own a bike, unless you are $loaded$.

Agreed. I also find it so much more convenient to jsut DIY than to make appts, drop off the bike, pick it up, wait around. It's also a great mechanical learning expereicne, because bike maintenance tasks are generally easier than the equivalent on a car or truck (easier access, less heavy lifting, less corrosion, etc).

About the only issue with oil changing is that the factory filter is on there TIGHT and there's very little room to work around it. What I'd sugest (i.e., what I wish I'd done) is get a new Yamaha filter and at the same time pick up a cap style filter wrench that fits it perfectly. Then you should be all set to remove the original filter. I have aboout a half dozen filter wrenches, none of which quite fit, so I had to mangle the filter with enormous pliers to get it off.

 

[travstoll]

so I had to mangle the filter with enormous pliers to get it off.

I have done this before too...For some reason the oil filter can never be in a convenient place. On the r6, I had to remove my exhaust to change oil (I had a full D & D exhaust blocking the filter). On my DL650, oil dripped onto the header's when changing the filter, same thing on the F4i....the fz6r is about the most convenient place to have a filter with no mess, but I think I will take your advice and buy the filter wrench to make this job a little easier though.

 

[Roaddawg]

I haven't gotten to the 4k mark yet, about half way there but it'll be my first oil change on anything (car included) so I'm a little excited/scared of messing it up.

Just use the "how-to" thread that someone posted on this forum. It's a piece of cake. The only hard part is getting off the filter if you don't have the right tools. (i.e. the cap style filter tool). It takes me less than 20 minutes to do an oil change. Most of that time is spent taking off the left side fairing. And, if you only change the filter every other oil change like Yamaha states, you don't even need to take off the fairing, just drain the oil and replace. Super easy...granted you know a little about using tools. (My brother-in-law couldn't tell you the difference between a standard head screwdriver and a philips head.):banghead:

 

[Superfly]

Well I've been preparing for this first oil change since before I bought the bike cause I knew it was going to be a bitch. Anyways 150km and I gave it a try yesterday.

I took all the fairings off since I wanted to check for leaks and whatnot and have room to work. The first cup wrench for my honda civic (supergraphite #5) Slid when I tried to turn it. Thats the issue no traction. Tried the small band style wrench and couldnt even get it to fit right as there is little room and the filter is so small.
Tried the big oil filter pliers i have and since you cant get them in there to work either it was starting to punch holes into the filter...no good.
Back to taking more parts off...kickstand switch, chain sprocket cover etc.

Finally back to #5 cup wrench with a folded over piece of sandpaper wrapped inside so that the grippy part of the paper contacted the filter and the wrench insides...Jammed that on the filter and with a long ratchet and a friend pushing the bike towards me as I pushed on the filter it finally came off...

total time: 1 hr
total time for next filter change that I'll hand tighten: 5mins
not having some ass-clown at the dealer work on my bike: priceless

 

[bmw675]

same issue but i wasn't going to start removing anything else. the punching hole method worked for me. i got had to do it 3-4 times, each only getting at most an 1/8 of a turn out of it. i was able to get channel locks on the head from then on out. prob be the last time i change it. that is unless i do it at the end of the season, i know i wont hit the 4k mark by the end of the year.

Tried the big oil filter pliers i have and since you cant get them in there to work either it was starting to punch holes into the filter...no good.
Back to taking more parts off...kickstand switch, chain sprocket cover etc.

 

[dart1963]

same issue but i wasn't going to start removing anything else. the punching hole method worked for me. i got had to do it 3-4 times, each only getting at most an 1/8 of a turn out of it. i was able to get channel locks on the head from then on out. prob be the last time i change it. that is unless i do it at the end of the season, i know i wont hit the 4k mark by the end of the year.

Don't forget, it's not just mileage, but time as well. Oil breaks down over time and you don't want it breaking down and turning into nasty stuff sitting in the engine.
And, BTW, I don't remove the entire fairing to get to the oil filter, just the bottom bolts. With an oil filter wrench with a socket head in it, it's pretty easy to get off.

 

[travstoll]

Don't forget, it's not just mileage, but time as well. Oil breaks down over time and you don't want it breaking down and turning into nasty stuff sitting in the engine.
And, BTW, I don't remove the entire fairing to get to the oil filter, just the bottom bolts. With an oil filter wrench with a socket head in it, it's pretty easy to get off.

Do you know how soon oil break down? I have in the past bought my oil and filter's in bulk to save cash, and just used as needed.....maybe I should reconsider huh? I have some pre-aditive shell rotellaT in my garage right now that I have had for probably 2 years now....does it need to be thrown out?

 

[dart1963]

Do you know how soon oil break down? I have in the past bought my oil and filter's in bulk to save cash, and just used as needed.....maybe I should reconsider huh? I have some pre-aditive shell rotellaT in my garage right now that I have had for probably 2 years now....does it need to be thrown out?

no issue if it's new oil...

it's the thermal cycling, shearing that breaks it down, then the sulfur in there mixes with any water (from condensation, etc.) and will become sulfuric acid... like I said, "nasty stuff". (just verified this with a GM mechanic friend of mine).

 

[Superfly]

Well I had some time to finally check out the oil filter I took off at 150km. It had lots of small particles of metal and the oil was completely contaminated and looked like metallic paint in some ways. I was kinda reluctant to change the oil at 150km but I'm very happy I did...Next change prob around 500km...

 

[Newmason]

Wish me luck guys. Just ran to the dealership on my lunch to pick up 3 qts of 10-40w yamalube and a k&n-204 oil filter. This will be the first oil change on the bike. I am hoping not to have to resort to the screw driver method but if need be, I have a harbor freight right up the street. They might carry the solution! :surrender:

 

[FitZ6R]

if need be, I have a harbor freight right up the street. They might carry the solution! :surrender:

"Tired of impossible oil filters? Easily remove them with a no-nonsense approach."

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=36778

That's what I used to grab the filter end-on and mangle it off. Not pretty, but it worked, and if you stick with K&N, you'll never have to deal with it again.