Getting the filter off was the easy part for me, you can use oil filter pliers and crush it, which helped me get enough turn. Putting it on without crushing it is the hard part, always have to tighten it after warming it up to stop it from leaking..
It hasn't been long since I did my 600 mile oil change, and I'm quickly coming up on my 1000 mile oil change, which should be it until 4000.
I do city driving almost exclusively and will probably only put 2000-3000 a year at most. My question: I used Mobil 1 4T racing oil synthetic last time, should I stick with the same which I can get locally easily, or spend an extra few dollars and days tracking down Amsoil? Has anybody switched from 4T to Amsoil and noticed a difference?
For the life of me, I can't see how to properly read the dipstick on my FZ6R. I'm not a dumb person, but how should the stick look when there's a proper amount of oil in the bike???
I bought this, Lisle 54700 65/67mm Cap Wrench, from amazon.com for $7.50. It worked perfectly to remove the factory oil filter for the 600 mile oil change. Size is 65/67mm and 14 flutes.
Hey anyone got a picture of the plug with the seal? I am darn near sure that I didn't lose the seal but after putting it back in I lose about a drop every few hours. Since this is the first time I changed the oil on this bike I haven't actually seen the plug and seal for it and I want to rule that out. I figured it would be losing a lot more if there wasn't a seal there. Is it a little flat metal washer?
Edit: Nevermind I had re-torqued it last night and this morning we are dry. Just paranoid new bikeness disease...:zombie:
I ran into the problem of trying to find a filter for the bike. Especially the K&N filter. None of the parts stores carried it, or even had a part number for it. So I just got a filter from walmart that is compatible. There is a thread about oil filters and which ones will work with our bikes.
Thanks for this.I changed mine myself today for the first time.I was kind of suprised.Thanks to the chart O filters I was able to avoid around 60 extra miles to get everything.I just used mobil1 10w40 motorcycle oil, and a Purolator Pure One PL14610
I asked for a Purolator Pure One PL14612, but they only had the 10.Mine fit without adding washers or anything.Its just easier to see with the panels on.
I just hand tightened my purolator on.It has a little texture for grip, not much, like undercoating id say.I just tightened it bye hand as much as I could.I think its tight enough, I tried to loosen it afterwards, and would of needed channellocks.I guess after getting it on my fingers didnt have the strength to do it again lolIt wasnt bad.I thought that little plastic pin for the side panel was the worst part lol.
I just changed my oil after 350 miles on the bike. I took off the whole side fairing so it will be easier to work it. Only took me 10 mins. 6 bolts, 1 clip, 4 screws from the exhaust headers cover, and unclip the turn signal. It made it easier for me torque the oil nut...it will on there pretty tight. I had to hammer it loose. The oil filter wasn't that bad, I had an oil filter claw (invest in one; they're great!) which made the job really easy....those wires around it can be annoying.
