FZ6R Oil Change - How To


cbzdel

New Member
Thought I would do a quick oil change how to... (I did this as part of my 600 mile service)

What you need:

Oil Drain Pan
(3) Quarts of Oil (I used Yamalube 10w40)
(1) Oil Filter (I used K&N for easy removal)
17mm Ratchet/Socket (or wrench)
Allen Key Set (I think all I used was the 5mm to remove the fairing)

Optional:
Torque Wrench
Clean Up Rags
Magnetic pen to find drain bolt when you drop it in the oil lol
Oil filter wrench (I dont have one, I used the hammer and screwdriver technique)

Step 1 - Warm Engine, I went for a 5 mile ride, then let it sit for 5 minutes

Step 2 - Take your 17mm ratchet/socket and remove the oil drain bolt, mine was a PITA and I could get it to budge so I used a hammer on it. (I plan on replacing the drain bolt ever other oil change just because its a key point and its so cheap)



Step 3 - Let the oil drain, once the bolt came out I went away for 5 minutes while it drained



Step 4 - Clean and reinstall oil drain plug, tighten to 31 fl/lbs if you have a torque wrench.



Step 5 - Remove these two bolts in the lower fairing, the manual says to remove the entire piece, but it was not necessary.



Step 6 - Remove the oil filter. This would be easy if you have a oil filter wrench, but I dont have one, nor did I want to buy one. (I use the K&N filters which have a 17mm nut on the end for easy removal) So I used the screwdriver method, I took a small screwdriver and jammed it though the filter, and turned the filter counter clockwise. Please note, this method is very messy and if you plan on using any filter but the K&N I recommend getting a some sort of filter wrench.

I didnt take any pics of that because I was angry, it took almost a half hour of the screwdriver method to remove the filter haha!!

Step 7 - Install new oil filter, don't forget fresh oil on the gasket. If you want to use a torque wrench set it to 12 ft/lbs

Step 8 - Pour in about 2.8 quarts of oil, check the dip stick (the bike has to be level! not, on the side stand)

Step 9 - Start it up and check for leaks, if nothing, double check the dip stick again, if that checks out, enjoy!
 
F

FZ1inNH

Well done! I have to get the wife to study this so she can do this on her new one! :D
 

PVD_FZ6R

New Member
Thanks for posting - I just did my 600 mile change a few days ago. I recommend spending a few minutes on removing the fairing (a few bolts and unplugging the turn signal connector) - it will give you more room for the tools

Used the K&N filter and 3 quarts of the Mobil1 10w-40 4t Syn. Bike actually shifts a tad smoother now.
 

cbzdel

New Member
Thanks for posting - I just did my 600 mile change a few days ago. I recommend spending a few minutes on removing the fairing (a few bolts and unplugging the turn signal connector) - it will give you more room for the tools

Used the K&N filter and 3 quarts of the Mobil1 10w-40 4t Syn. Bike actually shifts a tad smoother now.
I plan on going with AMSOIL for my next change, I just didnt have the time to track it down, I needed oil ASAP lol

EDIT: I didnt even notice we have a How To section maybe the mods can move this lol...
 

99vengeur

Administrator
Staff member
That's a realy nice write-up. Great job!


BTW
Could a mod please move this to the How-to section?
 

GoGreen09

New Member
The pics are great, but the torque settings are really helpful. Glad one of us bought the service manual.
 

fz6rwolf

New Member
Great write up, if only I had a place to do this (apartment and no working on vehicles rule) so it'll be back to stealer when time for next change.
 

mattjb

New Member
Step 7 - Install new oil filter, don't forget fresh oil on the gasket. If you want to use a torque wrench set it to 12 ft/lbs

Step 8 - Start it up and check for leaks, if nothing enjoy!
Uhh, am I missing something here? When did you put oil in? ;) It's probably worth including a step for adding oil and checking the dip stick. I'd hate for someone to fire up their bike with no oil (EEK!)

Thanks for the write up!

-mb
 

cbzdel

New Member
Uhh, am I missing something here? When did you put oil in? ;) It's probably worth including a step for adding oil and checking the dip stick. I'd hate for someone to fire up their bike with no oil (EEK!)

Thanks for the write up!

-mb
Fixxxed it :thumbup:
 

MNDZA

New Member
Uhh, am I missing something here? When did you put oil in? ;) It's probably worth including a step for adding oil and checking the dip stick. I'd hate for someone to fire up their bike with no oil (EEK!)

Thanks for the write up!

-mb
Yeah I thought the same thing when I read it, but I only skimmed it so I thought I might have skipped it.
 

xplodnstar

New Member
Beautiful write-up! Thanks for indicating the important stuff in the pics.
 
R

Ryan T

Good write up.

You know what they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words" and it's even better when the pictures have captions.

Nothing like a plethora of knowledge all in one spot, yes, one stop shopping, you can't beat that with a baseball bat.
 

RZ350 Rider

New Member
Instead of the screwdriver treatment next time try the patented RZ 350 Rider "Rope Trick". I believe I'm the first one in the world to use this method. Wrap the filter with about 4 turns or so of rope going from the filter mounting flange side going Counter-Clockwise, hold the end 1st and pull the side that UNSCREWS the filter, which will be the filter closed end side or 2nd end. I've used this way numerous times and never had it fail. I've even crushed the guts out of a few that were put on friends cars by the oil change franchise stores. Give it a try!

RZ350 Rider
 

stroke

New Member
haha yea i pounded the **** out of my oil filter with the screw driver technique... any bolt from the factory is going to be wayyy to tight.. i forgot about a k&n oil filter tho... gonna have to do the screwdriver all over again next time:(
 



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