- Admin
- #121
You tried the belt kind?
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FZ6R Oil Change - How To
- Thread starter cbzdel
- Start date
You tried the belt kind?
arkkornkid
New Member
yeah, the rubber strap that goes into a handle and then uses leverage to keep itself tight as you turn. If you have the room it works pretty well, but is completely useless in tight spaces
and if you have enough room to use one, then you could always use one of those quick ratcheting type of clamps:
and if you have enough room to use one, then you could always use one of those quick ratcheting type of clamps:
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- Admin
- #123
Hmmmmmm....
calltrex
New Member
mine is metal. ill have a look at it. see if theres a brand on it or something
arkkornkid
New Member
But to be perfectly honest, before my s2k, I've never put a filter on so tight that I couldn't get it back off by hand. The s2k requires a 3/4 turn past contact, due to it's high-revving nature... I've never seen any other vehicle needing the filter that tight. So in reality I'm sure if you took that rubber gripper you were talking about for opening jars (I keep one in my tool box too) and used it while you tightened the filter by hand, then it shouldn't loosen up while riding and will come back off fairly easily.
Next time I change my oil, I'll give this a try and check it periodically to see if I'm right. I wouldn't ask anyone else to do it, but I wouldn't mind testing the theory. Unfortunately I just changed my oil 2 weeks ago, so it'll be a while before I'd be reporting back on the matter.
Next time I change my oil, I'll give this a try and check it periodically to see if I'm right. I wouldn't ask anyone else to do it, but I wouldn't mind testing the theory. Unfortunately I just changed my oil 2 weeks ago, so it'll be a while before I'd be reporting back on the matter.
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- Admin
- #126
Yeah, I can't try this out right now either since I changed mine not that long ago as well.
I'm not over-tightening the filter, at least based on the torque specifications in the owner's manual. Every time I have done the oil change, the drain plug and the filter get torqued to the specs set out by Yamaha. I guess they could be too much from the start. In my lawnmower, the oil filter gets tightened 3/4 turn past contact with the rubber gasket and I never have trouble getting it back off. Maybe that's what I should start trying with the FZ6R. :don'tknow:
Roaddawg
New Member
What about duct tape on the inside of the cap?!?!?! Duct tape makes everything work!!! 
After getting that glued on stock filter off at the 600 mile oil change, I hand tighten mine, then use my metal filter cap wrench and tighten about a 1/4-/12 past the hand tightening. I've never had a problem getting them off (4x now since stock/16k+ miles) and never had one leak on me. My metal filter wrench looks like 99's but metal. I bought it at a NAPA auto parts store for about $5.
After getting that glued on stock filter off at the 600 mile oil change, I hand tighten mine, then use my metal filter cap wrench and tighten about a 1/4-/12 past the hand tightening. I've never had a problem getting them off (4x now since stock/16k+ miles) and never had one leak on me. My metal filter wrench looks like 99's but metal. I bought it at a NAPA auto parts store for about $5.
Steviet
New Member
I took a couple tranquilizers before doing this because of all the reports of having a hard time getting the filter off. I actually think mine was loose, once I figured out how to get the filter wrench on the filter it took almost no force to get that filter off. The only thing I forgot to do was to use the tip that (sorry I forgot who it was) another forum member suggested using tin foil as a channel to keep the oil off the exhaust etc.. So I had a little cleanup to do from that. Nice write up, and like some of the others I decided to take all 6 hex bolts out and just move the fairing aside. Had enough room to work for sure without stressing anything out.
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bmw675
New Member
i just changed mine for the secod time, just shy of 3k. it still amazes me that you CAN tell a difference when shifting, especially in lower gears
when i took off the factory filter it took about 5 stabs of the screw driver to walk it around. this time it only took 2. wasn't too bad at all.
when i took off the factory filter it took about 5 stabs of the screw driver to walk it around. this time it only took 2. wasn't too bad at all.
- Moderator
- #130
What about duct tape on the inside of the cap?!?!?! Duct tape makes everything work!!!
After getting that glued on stock filter off at the 600 mile oil change, I hand tighten mine, then use my metal filter cap wrench and tighten about a 1/4-/12 past the hand tightening. I've never had a problem getting them off (4x now since stock/16k+ miles) and never had one leak on me. My metal filter wrench looks like 99's but metal. I bought it at a NAPA auto parts store for about $5.
+1 dawg! I did the exact same with my factory filter... and now tighten just like you, I don't trust the car philosophy of "just hand tighten" but follow that with a quick 1/4 turn of the oil wrench, mostly because it's hard to get a full hand on the filter, and it all works out.
tgscanlan
New Member
oil filter socket
Did my intial 600 mile oil change today. Went to the dealership and picked up a gallon of the yamalube regular stuff and picked up this oil filter socket that they sold for $13. Just like any other socket that'll go on a wrench. Probably a little harsh on the $$ but it was well worth it because the filter came off hassle free. Made the job so much easier and thanks to this thread I was able to make the decision on what the best method would be. :thumbup:
Did my intial 600 mile oil change today. Went to the dealership and picked up a gallon of the yamalube regular stuff and picked up this oil filter socket that they sold for $13. Just like any other socket that'll go on a wrench. Probably a little harsh on the $$ but it was well worth it because the filter came off hassle free. Made the job so much easier and thanks to this thread I was able to make the decision on what the best method would be. :thumbup:
jotapeh
New Member
Changed my oil at 3500km convinced there was a 3000km service in the manual
Lo and behold when I opened to the manual to double check I realized I didn't have to change the oil until 7000km...
But I did it anyway Hopefully the bike appreciates it, haha.
Lo and behold when I opened to the manual to double check I realized I didn't have to change the oil until 7000km...
But I did it anyway
Hopefully the bike appreciates it, haha.sm00thpapa
Member
Dealer told me change the oil at 600 and then at 4,000 miles as the service manual states. But under the oil change interval for the engine is says 600 then 1,000 then 4,000. So what did you all do? Yamaha messed up I guess in the manual.
Brock Kickass
New Member
I'm in Canada, so we're on the metric schedule, but my dealer did an oil change and total inspection at 1000km (600mi or so), and then an oil change at 5000km (3000mi?) and at every 5000km interval afterward. This seems to go with what my manual says. Hope this helps.
MikeN02
New Member
You can change it again at 1,000mi. That's when the engine "fully" breaks in, 600mi is where the rings and gear shifter sets I believe.
I did 600mi and 4,000mi.
It all depends on you, some people do 2 - 3 oil changes before 600 mi.
sm00thpapa
Member
Think I'll do 600, 1,000 and 4,000 then every 3,000 after that. Just been reading on the ring set thing and it said to ride it hard from the get go to set the rings. I been babying it for 255 miles since purchase hope I can still set the rings properly.
- Moderator
- #137
If you're talking about the motoman method... read it thoroughly... the bike has to be warmed up, and the "hard" ride is only for about 20 miles... after which you have to change the oil....
And another clarification, that has been said before, the manual does NOT say you can't go above xxx rpms before hitting 1000 miles. It says do not keep it up there for extended periods.... so when you are taking off, you can go right up there to 10k from day 1 purchase through the gears.... if you're new to riding, I wouldn't recommend it until you've gotten used to the bike, it's a whole new beast above 7k and if you're not ready, it will throw you.
to quote from the manual "During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation or any condition that might result in engine overheating must be avoided"...and "0-600 miles: Avoid prolonged operation above 5800r/min"..... NEVER says stay below those rpms.
sm00thpapa
Member
Dart you are correct! I went back and read my owners manual and it also does not say change the oil at 1,000 miles, it states avoid prolonged operation above 7,000 RPM between 600 to 1,000 miles. Don't know how I got the idea to change the oil again at 1,000 miles, guess I caught a brain cramp when I was reading.
jotapeh
New Member
Well the bike seems pretty happy on 2L of Mobil 1 10W-40 and 0.5L of Castrol 10W-40.
Yeah I mixed 'em..
Just rode it pretty hard for 300km or so, it seems peachy.
Yeah I mixed 'em..
Just rode it pretty hard for 300km or so, it seems peachy.
Bison39
New Member
This is actually ridiculous! I'm trying to change the oil but I can't get the stupid filter off!
I even went out and bought the oil filter wrench adapter from the yamaha dealership as people recommended. The adapter is metal and fits nice and tight over the filter but when I got it to turn the adapter just spins over the filter. I moved on to the screwdriver method but just chewed up the filter. I guess the next step is to grab some channel locks tomorrow. Grrr.
I even went out and bought the oil filter wrench adapter from the yamaha dealership as people recommended. The adapter is metal and fits nice and tight over the filter but when I got it to turn the adapter just spins over the filter. I moved on to the screwdriver method but just chewed up the filter. I guess the next step is to grab some channel locks tomorrow. Grrr.
