The gears are different to my knowledge, to what degree I don't know.
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I installed cams, but I got them from another member who is also a very good mechanic. He figured out the degree part. All I had to do was uninstall mine and swap gears to the other cams and reinstall. Not quite so easy, but not overly difficult. But again I didn't have to time them. If you can contact Marthy he would be the best person to answer this.
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Final Impact
Member
Take a peak at this... I4 DOHC from a cage - notice the slotted cam gears? Apply this same concept here but in this case, you or the machine shop slots the existing holes to obtain the LC desired. By slotting the existing holes it allows you to change the lobe center in relation to crankshaft / piston position. This changes the torque curve of the engine.
The amount you slot the gears is based om degrees of rotation od the cams bolt circle radius.
How to degree your DOHC engine
The link explains the math, logic, and has pictures.... take a peak.
Also as written throughout this thread, getting a dial indicator around the cams and squarly onto the valve spring retainer is a serious PITA. You need a dial indicator with a screw in tip that you can molest one of the tips by welding a sturdy wire to it and form that around the cam lobe touching the spring retainer...
Here I'm checking TDC after advancing the ignition timing on the FZ6...
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Thanks for the post. I didn't know how to explain it. Marthy explained it to me and I did research on my own things king I would have to degree them myself.Take a peak at this... I4 DOHC from a cage - notice the slotted cam gears? Apply this same concept here but in this case, you or the machine shop slots the existing holes to obtain the LC desired. By slotting the existing holes it allows you to change the lobe center in relation to crankshaft / piston position. This changes the torque curve of the engine.
The amount you slot the gears is based om degrees of rotation od the cams bolt circle radius.
How to degree your DOHC engine
The link explains the math, logic, and has pictures.... take a peak.
Also as written throughout this thread, getting a dial indicator around the cams and squarly onto the valve spring retainer is a serious PITA. You need a dial indicator with a screw in tip that you can molest one of the tips by welding a sturdy wire to it and form that around the cam gear touching the retainer...
Here I'm checking TDC after advancing the ignition timing on the FZ6...
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Exhaust cam should be very close but the intake cam need to be advance 3 degree if I remember well. 0.008" slot per degree... remember 2:1 ratio! 1 degree at the cam is 2 degree at the crank.
ILC 102 degree
ELC 104 degree
Under 4K rpm the bike pull as strong as a 20yo mopped. LOL But it comes alive pass 4K with a greatly improve mid range over stock. Peak HP should be around 10250rpm and it pull strong all the way to 12K. It's kind of a b%$% to get it right but all you need is patience. Hitting those numbers are important... 1 degree make the whole difference. If you have an exhaust with that, get a good custom tune. Well worth the investment.
ILC 102 degree
ELC 104 degree
Under 4K rpm the bike pull as strong as a 20yo mopped. LOL But it comes alive pass 4K with a greatly improve mid range over stock. Peak HP should be around 10250rpm and it pull strong all the way to 12K. It's kind of a b%$% to get it right but all you need is patience. Hitting those numbers are important... 1 degree make the whole difference. If you have an exhaust with that, get a good custom tune. Well worth the investment.
Final Impact
Member
Are both the FZ and the R 105/105 stock? Its been too long.
This is an old thread, but maybe someone will see this 
What is the reliability of the bike doing this cam swap? Anyone ran into any major problems a few thousand miles down the road? I just ordered FZ6 cams and FZ6R cam gears off Ebay. I'm going to do a host of other mods where i'll be tearing into the engine so I figured I would do this as well while i'm in there.
I saw another post talking about swapping to R6 exhaust valve springs. Has anyone ran into issues using stock valve springs? I'll stay stock unless there have been issues with stock.
Can you run the FZ6 cams AND the 4 degree Advanced Timing gear? Or is that a recipe for disaster?
Does anyone have a good PCV map for the FZ6 cam swap?
And what front and rear sprockets did you run with this setup? Would you have a hard time keeping the front wheel down with -1/+2?
What is the reliability of the bike doing this cam swap? Anyone ran into any major problems a few thousand miles down the road? I just ordered FZ6 cams and FZ6R cam gears off Ebay. I'm going to do a host of other mods where i'll be tearing into the engine so I figured I would do this as well while i'm in there.
I saw another post talking about swapping to R6 exhaust valve springs. Has anyone ran into issues using stock valve springs? I'll stay stock unless there have been issues with stock.
Can you run the FZ6 cams AND the 4 degree Advanced Timing gear? Or is that a recipe for disaster?
Does anyone have a good PCV map for the FZ6 cam swap?
And what front and rear sprockets did you run with this setup? Would you have a hard time keeping the front wheel down with -1/+2?
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Never had any issues with that setup. Yes, 4 deg timing work fine.This is an old thread, but maybe someone will see this
What is the reliability of the bike doing this cam swap? Anyone ran into any major problems a few thousand miles down the road? I just ordered FZ6 cams and FZ6R cam gears off Ebay. I'm going to do a host of other mods where i'll be tearing into the engine so I figured I would do this as well while i'm in there.
I saw another post talking about swapping to R6 exhaust valve springs. Has anyone ran into issues using stock valve springs? I'll stay stock unless there have been issues with stock.
Can you run the FZ6 cams AND the 4 degree Advanced Timing gear? Or is that a recipe for disaster?
Does anyone have a good PCV map for the FZ6 cam swap?
And what front and rear sprockets did you run with this setup? Would you have a hard time keeping the front wheel down with -1/+2?
Exhaust cam goes on the original timing mark on the gear. Leave the valve lash on the loose side of the specs.
Intake cams need to be advance few degrees. I had it to 102 degree (3 deg adv) it was awesome but not much was going on before 4K RPM. This time I went a little more advance (slotted 0.038" and sent it LOL)
I have a map done but not with an exhaust. I kept the stock exhaust with twin outlet. Might get you in the ball park?
I’d sure take the map if you would email it to me. I’ll PM you my email.
I hate to bump an old thread, but I had a couple questions regarding the timing adjustment and machining on the cam gears. Hopefully Marthy happens to see this.
What's the particular reasoning for the slotting of the cam gear to advance the timing? Does the slotting make up the difference between a non-slotted FZ6R gear and the original FZ6 gear?
Interested because I'm trying to start collecting parts for the winter and have another idea.
What's the particular reasoning for the slotting of the cam gear to advance the timing? Does the slotting make up the difference between a non-slotted FZ6R gear and the original FZ6 gear?
Interested because I'm trying to start collecting parts for the winter and have another idea.
Makes sense.
I just found a nice deal on a matched FZ6 cam/crank set and I saw that Yamaha has a really easy system for picking out main and rod bearings. Since I'll have the motor out and the bottom open this winter, I was curious as to whether or not keeping the FZ6 cam gears and popping in an FZ6 crank would achieve more or less the same thing.
I just found a nice deal on a matched FZ6 cam/crank set and I saw that Yamaha has a really easy system for picking out main and rod bearings. Since I'll have the motor out and the bottom open this winter, I was curious as to whether or not keeping the FZ6 cam gears and popping in an FZ6 crank would achieve more or less the same thing.
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