:Im With Stupid:You never had to install the block off plate... I can tell. Well to answer your question look at the label on the LH side of your swingarm... amasing the kind of info you need on the go.
For doing the job... well just to give you a picture. 1- you need to mesure your clearance before you do anything with a warm engine is better. 2- You need to remove the cams and lifter mesure the shims in place between the lifter and the valve, then go get what you need. Put everything back together, AT THE RIGHT PLACE! Mesure again, go thru the whole process if you screw up... Then when your happy with all the numbers, put all back together.
If you never did that before... it might be easier and quicker to drop off the bike and ask to do overtime at work! By the time you figure out how to squise the valve cover out of there, you will be kicking yourself in the butt saying WTF I was thinking!
Thrust me... when it's time, I will drop the bike and go to work... :banghead: LOL:Im With Stupid:
Good, I haven't read about the 6R... It's just what I always did with cars. I'm sure the spec are accordingly to cold engine... Thanks for the tip! But still, I'm not getting there :surrender::surrender:Everything I have done, and read and talked to said valves must be checked and adjusted on a stone cold engine.
Your lucky! It should have blown up at 26 600 miles! $225.00 is a fair price, totally worth it! Let us know the before and after... it would be nice to know how much the gap as changed. I need to check out my throttle body... 11 000. The bike sound and operate good. Nothing sound out of whack! I need to buy or build a gauge. I have a flow meter to adjust car carbs, but doesn't cut it with the 6R. Doesn't have enough flow to even move it.Yep, just called Friday, I have to swing by and pre-order a new gasket and some other non-replaceable parts to make sure they have it... then drop off the bike the night before so they can let it cool. They'll have it done the next day.
Cost: $225
I'm a little late too... hit somewhere around 27400 yesterday.
Yep, just called Friday, I have to swing by and pre-order a new gasket and some other non-replaceable parts to make sure they have it... then drop off the bike the night before so they can let it cool. They'll have it done the next day.
Cost: $225
I'm a little late too... hit somewhere around 27400 yesterday.
Yeah... Biggest things with valves is they can get loose of course and cause loud ticking and loss of power. They can also cause themselves to tighten up and that can cause you to run hot and burn valves.yeah, I thought about that... from what I've read up on the "check", it's nothing catastrophic that can happen... just can run funny... if somethings out... I might still put some indicator on the bolts or soewhere just to make sure they've done something....
I personally trust this shop in Leesburg though... this was the same guy who gave me the advice on the spark plugs, saying 8k is overkill, but it's more to keep the plugs from seizing in the engine, more than the plugs going bad.
This is exactly why I work on my own bikes and vehicles. The only way I know it gets done right is if I do it myself. Even if it takes a couple tries to get it done right.Just make sure they ACTUALLY do the valve adjustment! When I first bought my first bike and it was time for the adjustment (before I stated doing them myself) I put clear nail polish on the valve cover in a hidden spot and some sharpie marks on some bolts they would have had to remove to get to the valve cover.
The nail polish was not broken what-so-ever and the hidden sharpie marks were perfectly in line with each other on all the bolts I marked. Still ticked super bad just like it did when I brought it in. Confronted them and made them do it again. This time the stuff was indeed broken and then the bike sounded smooth as day 1. Its an easy way for them to make money and not really do the work!