Throttle Bodies

[Spunky99]

A turbo would be sweet. I feel a frame-twister, coming out of a corner, in the making!

Let me play with the R6R TB first....then we can talk about feeding crack to my engine.....jeeesh....

 

[Spunky99]

Ok, I'm just going to throw this out here. If you are looking for the biggest bang for your buck, i.e. HP/$.....then you need to look into a power adder. In other words, maybe you should shift your thinking to consider adding a turbocharger or some nitrous oxide. It's the quickest way to get hp gains and still retain a fairly stock power/torque curve. Especially with nirtous oxide, as you can control how much, when and how often it gets sprayed.

Just some food for thought.

You are killin' me Bro.....my wallet just looked at me and squeeked and a moth flew out.

 

[Funkmaxtor]

Let me play with the R6R TB first....then we can talk about feeding crack to my engine.....jeeesh....

HAHAHA :Sport:

 

[99vengeur]

You are killin' me Bro.....my wallet just looked at me and squeeked and a moth flew out.

I'm sure you could find a NO2 setup for $300 or less. Plus, if you built your own spray kit, you might save a bunch of money over a pre-built kit. Not too mention, most kits come with multiple nozzles allowing you to choose the HP setting.

When I installed NO2 on my car, it was under $250 and it came with nozzles for 50-150 hp. It's definitely a viable option that won't break the bank.....or the bike.

 

[Halon]

I was going to suggest turbo as well. You can control boost as easily as nitrous if you can control your throttle hand. Just don't load the engine while you're putt putting and give it a good twist when you want to go fast. I was waiting to see a setup like that before I decide on where to go from this bike as had been mentioned it is comfortable and forgiving for a beginner. So maybe when the warranty runs out it'll be time for some toys.

 

[Spunky99]

Picture time......

I cleaned the headers in the kitchen sink with a used green scratchy pad last night and let them dry all day today in a box in the living room. Can you tell I'm not married?....LOL
Good enough to weld and get fabricated to fit the bike with the muffler. I'll think about some VHT or something later on. They are OK as they are to me without any touch ups. Besides they are pretty much hidden behind the fairing and I don't want to add any weight...

They are 1999 - 2002 headers. Notice the small U shaped pipe in between the center pipes. It is open and equalizes the pipe pressure. Why?? Heck if I know....No CAT on these babies.
At the bottom is the newer version off eBay with a pipe straight across. Why they changed? Heck if I know...it also has the CAT which you don't want.

I don't know what the bolts are for near the bottom bend in the headers either....

 

[Halon]

I think it acts like an x pipe and helps with exhaust scavenging at higher rpms. Each exhaust pulse helps to pull the next pulse from the connected opposite side. The outside two don't need to be connected because they draw from the inside two at the 4-2 intersection?

What is the stroke rotation as it relates to the pipes? That may help explain a little more. I.e. 1-3-2-4? Exhaust pulse 2 helps pull exhaust pulse 3 out of the chamber and down the header?

I could completely be talking out of my ass.

The bolts look like they're bungs for Wideband sensors or otherwise related tuning ports?

 

[Spunky99]

I think it acts like an x pipe and helps with exhaust scavenging at higher rpms. Each exhaust pulse helps to pull the next pulse from the connected opposite side. The outside two don't need to be connected because they draw from the inside two at the 4-2 intersection?

What is the stroke rotation as it relates to the pipes? That may help explain a little more. I.e. 1-3-2-4? Exhaust pulse 2 helps pull exhaust pulse 3 out of the chamber and down the header?

I could completely be talking out of my ass.

I could completely be talking out of my ass

Bad visual...LOL...but a good explanation..sounds reasonable anyway and I remember hearing something similar many moons ago...

 

[Spunky99]

All in stages boys and girls. Step by step.

Before I turn this baby into a faster bike, the brakes need to be upgraded.
I installed the Spiegler SS brake lines today. It was all I could do physically since I had a liver biopsy on Friday afternoon and my solar plexus area is pretty sore. Next will be a second bleed sometime this week to get all the micro-bubbles out that may be in there. Next weekend I'll put on the bronze scintered brake pads and the Juice Box. I want to see what the JB will do with a stock exhaust with the hole in it via screwdriver to make it louder.
The Viper micro can will be here soon so the fabrication of the exhaust will be next.

We were discussing the wonderful linear power curve we have and all agreed we want to keep that but maybe add some more HP too.

This is why I want to test the semi-stock exhaust with the JB.

 

[Marthy]

Interesting discussion here... Let's start with throttle body. It's all about air speed. As long as air speed stays 70% below the speed of sound your good at the rev limiter your good. Having bigger throttle will just kill your throttle response in the mid range. Bigger doesn't mean better!

For the cams it's a bit more technical. Lift have nothing to do with HP. Lift should be around 30% of the valves diameter. The gain is very minimal pass that point. Using hight performance valves with a smaller radius is the way to go. But $$$? The power come from the duration. More duration (late intake valve closing) more top end.

We can go on like that for a while. The bottom line is an engine is like a massive air pump that need to work in perfect harmony all together. So you can't just do 1 thing, you need to do it all! By example, if you want to run faster you need to train both legs. If you train only your left leg to run faster it will not make you run faster.

So better air filter, exhaust, fuel delivery is all you can do unless you are ready the spend the big $$$. Even there, it's all about compromise! Good luck Buddy, hope it will help you a bit!

 

[Bruno]

Interesting discussion here... Let's start with throttle body. It's all about air speed. As long as air speed stays 70% below the speed of sound your good at the rev limiter your good. Having bigger throttle will just kill your throttle response in the mid range. Bigger doesn't mean better!

For the cams it's a bit more technical. Lift have nothing to do with HP. Lift should be around 30% of the valves diameter. The gain is very minimal pass that point. Using hight performance valves with a smaller radius is the way to go. But $$$? The power come from the duration. More duration (late intake valve closing) more top end.

We can go on like that for a while. The bottom line is an engine is like a massive air pump that need to work in perfect harmony all together. So you can't just do 1 thing, you need to do it all! By example, if you want to run faster you need to train both legs. If you train only your left leg to run faster it will not make you run faster.

So better air filter, exhaust, fuel delivery is all you can do unless you are ready the spend the big $$$. Even there, it's all about compromise! Good luck Buddy, hope it will help you a bit!

Why not use the FZ throttle body? Our engine is totally based on FZ engine and the compression ratio is the same! I think it would be easier!

 

[Marthy]

Why not use the FZ throttle body? Our engine is totally based on FZ engine and the compression ratio is the same! I think it would be easier!

Why? Those throttle can fill up the 6R engine well enough up to 12500 RPM. The FZ6 or R6 have bigger one because the engine spin 2000 to 4000 RPM faster!

Get an exhaust + PCV. Use my map... this is as good as it's gonna get. Other then that if ou want more power... get a different bike.

I know you might get nailed on shipping fee, but look at my website, that might give you some ideas...