Reversing Handlebars

[buzzbomb]

Before I get spammed: Yes I used the search. I tried "reverse + handlebar" with 0 results. "Reverse" and "handlebar" both yielded many, not what I'm looking for, posts. As yet I haven't been able to find a free pdf of the service manual either, so I'm kinda in the dark.

I've the next two days off and would like to reverse my handlebars on Saturday, when it's supposed to be raining all day. Can anyone point me to a post, or check the service manual and tell me what's involved? The moving of levers, switches and such seems obvious. It's the actual removal of the handlebars, the reversing procedure and the reinstall I'm interested in.

 

[arkkornkid]

This thread should help.

http://www.600cc.org/forum/f91/adjusting-handlebar-position-15761/

It's not difficult. Go from under the front of the bike to loosen (not remove) the nuts holding the risers to the triple clamps. then come back up top and remove the four bolts and the tops of the risers. Lift the bars out of the way, turn the risers 180 degrees, replace the handlebars and spin the risers tops so the arrows point the opposite direction of what they were and snug them back down. Then go back under and tighten down the risers to the triples. Last thing is to adjust the handlebar height to your preference and maybe have to adjust the controls a little depending on overall positition.

 

[Sander Koop]

Before I get spammed: Yes I used the search. I tried "reverse + handlebar" with 0 results. "Reverse" and "handlebar" both yielded many, not what I'm looking for, posts. As yet I haven't been able to find a free pdf of the service manual either, so I'm kinda in the dark.

I've the next two days off and would like to reverse my handlebars on Saturday, when it's supposed to be raining all day. Can anyone point me to a post, or check the service manual and tell me what's involved? The moving of levers, switches and such seems obvious. It's the actual removal of the handlebars, the reversing procedure and the reinstall I'm interested in.

Do you mean the procedure described above, or do you actually want to REVERSE your bars? as in, turn them upside down?

If so, you'll have trouble refitting the throttle side instrument cluster, as the bars are drilled, and there is a pin on the cluster that needs to fit in the hole...

 

[Chevyfazer]

Why not get some fz1 bars, about $35-$45 brand new from Yamaha

 

[Rabbitman109]

Do you mean the procedure described above, or do you actually want to REVERSE your bars? as in, turn them upside down?

If so, you'll have trouble refitting the throttle side instrument cluster, as the bars are drilled, and there is a pin on the cluster that needs to fit in the hole...

But not impossible. The Renthal bars that I put on my bike needed drilled so that the controls would fit on. Sometimes you gotta get custom...

 

[FZ6R_Mike]

Bars need drilled? I didn't have to drill my new bars when I put them on

 

[Marthy]

Bars need drilled? I didn't have to drill my new bars when I put them on

Inside the controls on each side, there's a little "nipple" that goes in a hole in the handlebar to set them in the right position and keep them from spinning. When I swap my bars I didn't drill my new handlebars and I cut off the nipple with a razor blade. Once you tight up the control screws there tight enough... I never had any issues. I'm not saying it's the best thing to do... but after about 20K miles I can assure you you can get away with it... lol

 

[Rabbitman109]

Bars need drilled? I didn't have to drill my new bars when I put them on

I guess I should have clarified....

Thank you Marthy

Inside the controls on each side, there's a little "nipple" that goes in a hole in the handlebar to set them in the right position and keep them from spinning. When I swap my bars I didn't drill my new handlebars and I cut off the nipple with a razor blade. Once you tight up the control screws there tight enough... I never had any issues. I'm not saying it's the best thing to do... but after about 20K miles I can assure you you can get away with it... lol

I wanted to keep the "nipple" to position the housings better, perhaps I should have gotten rid of it instead. I guess hindsight is 20/20 right?

 

[wtnotch]

I'm with Martin on this one - I always just cut the nipple off. I've probably done this on over 10-15 bikes with up to 60K miles and no problems of any kind.

Plus, I kind of like to be able to set the controls to the position that I like rather than let the bar position decide it for me.

Russ

 

[buzzbomb]

Do you mean the procedure described above, or do you actually want to REVERSE your bars? as in, turn them upside down?

If so, you'll have trouble refitting the throttle side instrument cluster, as the bars are drilled, and there is a pin on the cluster that needs to fit in the hole...

"Reverse" was the only word I could think of, but I don't want to actually reverse the bars. When I was researching the FZ6R, I read that the handlebar mount is reversible. Meaning you can reverse the mount and move the handlebars forward a little bit.

2012 Yamaha FZ6R Review

Quoted from the above link: "The traditional 7/8" steel handlebar not only offers a comfortable, more upright riding position but can also be adjusted 20mm (approximately ¾ of an inch) forward by rotating the handlebar mounting brackets 180 degrees."

3/4 of an inch isn't much, but since that option is built into the bike, I thought I'd give it a try.

 

[buzzbomb]

This thread should help.

http://www.600cc.org/forum/f91/adjusting-handlebar-position-15761/

It's not difficult. Go from under the front of the bike to loosen (not remove) the nuts holding the risers to the triple clamps. then come back up top and remove the four bolts and the tops of the risers. Lift the bars out of the way, turn the risers 180 degrees, replace the handlebars and spin the risers tops so the arrows point the opposite direction of what they were and snug them back down. Then go back under and tighten down the risers to the triples. Last thing is to adjust the handlebar height to your preference and maybe have to adjust the controls a little depending on overall positition.

Thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for.

 

[buzzbomb]

Didn't get it done today. Went riding in the rain instead. It's now on the list with pulling the plastic to see if that's where the noise comes from.

Problem is, if I can ride, I'm gonna ride. Unless there's something serious going on, I'm gonna ride. Priorities? What!!?? I can't hear you, I'm too busy riding.

 

[MiltonDorkenhoff]

Didn't get it done today. Went riding in the rain instead. It's now on the list with pulling the plastic to see if that's where the noise comes from..

What noise?

 

[alaskanflyboy]

Didn't get it done today. Went riding in the rain instead. It's now on the list with pulling the plastic to see if that's where the noise comes from.

Problem is, if I can ride, I'm gonna ride. Unless there's something serious going on, I'm gonna ride. Priorities? What!!?? I can't hear you, I'm too busy riding.

I hear you. The only thing that really keeps me from riding is family obligations, work, and routine maintenance.

 

[buzzbomb]

What noise?

http://www.600cc.org/forum/f13/hollow-rubbing-noise-normal-24405/

 

[KeysRider3]

The only difficult part of changing the handlebar position is getting the handlebar riser nuts loose. They're on tight (a good thing), and getting a socket on them without taking off the cowls isn't easy, because getting a straight shot at the nuts from the fender/wheel area is almost impossible. I used a flex-joint socket and a 12 inch extension. You'll need to re-position the clutch and front brake lever/master cylinder before tightening things up, and if you pitch the bar ends "down" make sure you leave enough room between the grip and tank for your hands to be in a normal position. If you change the position of the clutch lever enough you'll also need to rotate the grip on the clutch side so the recess in the grip clamp will allow the lever to fully compress. You'll also notice that if you rotate the risers forward you'll need to put the top clamp on with the arrows pointed toward the rider (instead of toward the instrument cluster) or the clamp will not tighten properly.

 

[zaclaw]

Anyone have a picture of the completed procedure?

 

[buzzbomb]

Anyone have a picture of the completed procedure?

Sorry zaclaw. I reversed them, rode with them that way for a while and seriously disliked it.

I liked the change when I was running a road that had me tucking through the twistsies, hard-gripping with my thighs, etc. Riding it like a sport bike, essentially. Unfortunately that's a small percentage of the actual riding I do, and it just felt unstable to me in any other position.

I gave it some miles to see if I got used to it, but I ended up putting them back to stock.

 

[Perdurable]

Expensive option but worth it IMO!!!

lowers the bike and more aggressive stance also reduces weight slightly!!!

 

[Chucker]

Anyone have a picture of the completed procedure?

I believe you can search for an FZ1 bars thread and you'll see them in the forward position. I've moved mine forward, but I've also got the FZ1 bars. Not sure that's going to give you what youre looking for.