new oil pan help!


T

tkrechel

New Member
So I guess my crappy torque wrench got the best of me =/ and I must have over done the oil drain plug. I don't wanna mess with tapping and all that I just wanna replace the oil pan but I'm not sure if i am looking at the right part number and price. Do i just need number 9 and 12 from this site? Fast shipping. Up to 40% off Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Polaris OEM motorcycle parts and accessories. Deep reseller discounts.

Also I will need to replace the exhaust gaskets wont i? I thought the oil pan was like 400 bucks for some reason or am i not looking at the right part. JSP since you had to replace it in the past if you can chime in id really appreciate it. Thanks a lot all!
 
F

FastFreddy

New Member
Yes, 9 and 12, Oil pan and gasket. "strainer cover" ;)
You may as well get a new crush washer 11 too.
It wouldn't hurt to get spare o-rings 8, just in case too.

You have to get the surface on the sump very clean and dry after removing the old pan, give yourself hours to drain completely, rub clean, then let it dry, then rub some more, then you'll get a good seal afterwards.

Are these self-sealing gaskets or do you need some gasket goo ?

I've used the Loctite Grey gasket sealant for sump pans without a gasket and it works well. You better check the workshop manual for what type of gasket sealant they use.
 
T

tkrechel

New Member
yeah im not sure at all on what i need to do for the gaskets as i have never tried anything like this. Hoping jsp chimes in cause i know hes done this before. So frustrated over this. I guess the last time i changed my oil i over did it on the plug. I have bought a new higher end torque wrench. I should have known better than the trust that piece of crap harbor freight torque wrench =/
 
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bloodypulp

New Member
Never skimp on tools. Find a service manual and follow thoroughly. Though I can't tell u where to get one, they are around. Good luck with it, really.
 
G

geekmaster

Member
Now I'm scared ...

I just installed my frame sliders using my Harbor Freight torque wrench, then used the same wrench on the oil drain plug. But everything seemed to go fine ...

Although I will say, I got the inexpensive Harbor Freight wrench (3/8") and it looks identical to the more expensive Gorilla wrench (1/2") that I was given from Amazon, except for the size.
 
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tkrechel

New Member
I'd say for the engine bolts you're probably fine. The problem with the oil pan is the aluminum threads on the pan. The slightest over tightening and you can screw it up. Don't sweat it and worry too much. Just be real careful with the drain plug. There really isn't any room for error with the aluminum threads
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
Get the pan and the pan gasket. Yes. You should be fine for exhaust gaskets. Don't use a torque wrench on oil plug ever... Just hand tight and then snug it up a little. All you need to do.

Take off exhaust. Take out oil level sensor. On my r6 you had to take the bolts out but could not get sensor off until dropping the pan. Drop pan carefully. Clean ver very well. Must have all gasket material off of motor. Can use a razor very carefully or a small putty spatula.

Once satisfied, position new gasket and pan together. Must be perfectly aligned. Finger in a couple bolts. Just snug enough but so you can still position the gasket. Once good, finger tight all bolts.

This is where a GOOD torque wrench is needed. The pan bolts are only like 8 or 9 ft. lbs of torque. These will strip easier than the pan. I borrowed a good one from work. Tighten in a criss cross pattern.

Button the rest up and start her up and check for leaks.

Its really simple. Just a little scary. Only real worry is stripping the pan bolts.
 
T

tkrechel

New Member
Thanks jsp really appreciate the fast response! I ordered the parts and I bought a craftsman digital clicker torque wrench for like 100 bucks. I hope it will be satisfactory for the bolts. Service manual said like 7.2 ft lbs or something like that. Will have to check again. One more question! I obviously can't put any oil in till the parts come which will probably be almost a week I'm sure. Is it gonna hurt to leave it empty that long? I have the plug in there hand tightened just to keep bugs etc from getting in there but the bikes in the garage spin think it should be ok. Just never left an engine with no oil
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
Will be fine. All the stuff in there still has a film of oil on it. Same as when not running. Oil pan just holds the oil when not being circulated.
 
T

tkrechel

New Member
Just wanted to update that the parts showed up yesterday and when I got home from work I went ahead and did this. It really was very simple and not too expensive of a mistake, but I'd still like to thank everyone for their help especially JSP. He gave me the confidence to attempt this because I haven't tried something like this in the past. If anyone else has this issue please just order the new oil pan and gasket from the links that are stickied. The parts are less than 100 bucks and the labor is very simple. Since you can spend that much anyway on other solutions it really is best to just do it right the first time. Lesson learned for me and if anyone needs any help or has any questions on how to do this I'd be more than happy to walk ya through it. Thanks again all! Great forum
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
tkrechel said:
Just wanted to update that the parts showed up yesterday and when I got home from work I went ahead and did this. It really was very simple and not too expensive of a mistake, but I'd still like to thank everyone for their help especially JSP. He gave me the confidence to attempt this because I haven't tried something like this in the past. If anyone else has this issue please just order the new oil pan and gasket from the links that are stickied. The parts are less than 100 bucks and the labor is very simple. Since you can spend that much anyway on other solutions it really is best to just do it right the first time. Lesson learned for me and if anyone needs any help or has any questions on how to do this I'd be more than happy to walk ya through it. Thanks again all! Great forum
Click to expand...
Very good! Glad you got it all fixed up! :thumbup:
 
A

Anthony

Fastest Member
Elite Member
I never use the torque wrench. I know people swear by it but i'm always fearful that I will go too far..
 
M

Michael Wilson

New Member
After a while you develope a calibrated torque elbow. I know tons of bike techs (including myself) that rarely use torque wrenches. We most torque down head bolts, axels, tripple trees, and sprockets.
 
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bloodypulp

New Member
I had a bolt come loose on the caliper on my f-150 came loose while doing 70 on interstate. The other bolt sheared off and caliper spun about 3/4 around rotor. Only thing left holding it all together was brake line. Thought everything was tight enough but wasn't. After 6 mos of driving it had worked itself loose. So I torque every bolt I take loose now. Not as strong as I thought I was
 

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Michael Wilson

New Member
bloodypulp said:
I had a bolt come loose on the caliper on my f-150 came loose while doing 70 on interstate. The other bolt sheared off and caliper spun about 3/4 around rotor. Only thing left holding it all together was brake line. Thought everything was tight enough but wasn't. After 6 mos of driving it had worked itself loose. So I torque every bolt I take loose now. Not as strong as I thought I was
Click to expand...
Say hello to my favorite ratchet... BERTHA

1/2 In. Flex Head Teardrop Ratchet: Get Fasteners Turning with Sears
 
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