Leaky front fork seal

[methusalem]

Hey guys,

I have a leaky left front fork seal. Is this something I can replace myself or should I bring it to the only mechanic in town? (They estimated it at around $300 labor + parts)

Are there any guides/pictorials on how to do this? Search didn't bring anything up.


As always, thanks guys!

 

[Michael Wilson]

I find suspension quite easy. if you can measure a liquid and take something apart you can do the seals. Fairly simple task in my opinion

 

[buzzbomb]

I haven't had to do it on my FZ6R. I've changed the fork seals on a couple older bikes, though. The biggest problem is getting the front end suspended and removing the forks. The fork seal itself is just a plastic o-ring. Unfortunately getting to the point of sliding that little o-ring on the fork is pretty labor intensive. It'd be ridiculous to do just one. Both forks, all the seals in the rebuild kit.

If you don't have the know how or equipment to change it out, I'd say $300 labor is more than fair. Basically, the entire front end has to be removed before the seals can be replaced. Even for an experienced mechanic, that's a lot of hours work to make it happen and put it all back together.

For me, it'd be a whole day. The bigger question is, how the heck did you blow a fork seal? That's something normally seen on 20-year old bikes!

 

[methusalem]

I haven't had to do it on my FZ6R. I've changed the fork seals on a couple older bikes, though. The biggest problem is getting the front end suspended and removing the forks. The fork seal itself is just a plastic o-ring. Unfortunately getting to the point of sliding that little o-ring on the fork is pretty labor intensive. It'd be ridiculous to do just one. Both forks, all the seals in the rebuild kit.

If you don't have the know how or equipment to change it out, I'd say $300 labor is more than fair. Basically, the entire front end has to be removed before the seals can be replaced. Even for an experienced mechanic, that's a lot of hours work to make it happen and put it all back together.

For me, it'd be a whole day. The bigger question is, how the heck did you blow a fork seal? That's something normally seen on 20-year old bikes!

Beats me... I'm not the original owner, but it still only has just over 9000 miles on it.

 

[Blue-Sun]

For me, it'd be a whole day. The bigger question is, how the heck did you blow a fork seal? That's something normally seen on 20-year old bikes!

I had a fork seal leak about 3 months after I purchased my bike. The dealer I purchased the bike from, covered the repair under warranty. I rode the bike in a normal fashion and didn't do anything excessive to the forks or front end... just normal daily commuting back and forth to work.

The dealer had a theory that the extreme heat wave that we had recently experienced may have been a factor in the failure of the seal. It had hit 118 degrees during the previous week when I was riding home from work.

 

[Marthy]

Changing fluid only is easy and cheap. Changing the seals might require few special tools. $300 to rebuilt the front fork seams to be a fair price if it include parts.

 

[Michael Wilson]

Well I will say this. When I do fork seals I get paid for 3-4 hours depending on the bike. It takes me about 2 hours from start to finish. And like they said replace seals on both sides at same time. Its not hard lifting the front end up either just use a sissor jack

 

[Chucker]

If you're going to do the seals, you might as well replace the springs and put in heavier fork oil while you're at it. It shouldn't add more than the parts cost to the job.

 

[methusalem]

If you're going to do the seals, you might as well replace the springs and put in heavier fork oil while you're at it. It shouldn't add more than the parts cost to the job.

replace the springs as a security measure? Makes sense, if they aren't too expensive.

And why heavier fork oil?

 

[bleedinblue]

Im guessing they charge per fork, instead of per set?
This place does fork maintenance for $125, and revalves for $200, but doesn't have a price for seal replacement.Hopefully its the maintenance + the cost of seals.

https://j6shocks.com/Motorcycle_Services.html

It might be worth a email.

 

[fazer1]

Can anyone please give me a basic list of what you need, tools that is, to change these fork seals and springs and oil?

I've ordered the parts I need from Racetech, they arrive today, hoping to do the fix Friday or Saturday.

 

[dart1963]

Can anyone please give me a basic list of what you need, tools that is, to change these fork seals and springs and oil?

I've ordered the parts I need from Racetech, they arrive today, hoping to do the fix Friday or Saturday.

-rear stand and triple tree stand
-tools to remove front tire/brakes
-wrench for top tube
-allen for tree braces
-fork seal driver
-torques wrench
-small screwdriver to remove seal retaining clip
-measuring vial for getting same amount of fluid in each fork
-brake clean to get all the gunk out

not sure on sizes, but I know I had to purchase a wrench for the top tube, it's huge. if you've never done it before, pay attention to how the internals come out...

 

[Final Impact]

-rear stand and triple tree stand
-tools to remove front tire/brakes
-wrench for top tube
-allen for tree braces
-fork seal driver
-torques wrench
-small screwdriver to remove seal retaining clip
-measuring vial for getting same amount of fluid in each fork
-brake clean to get all the gunk out

not sure on sizes, but I know I had to purchase a wrench for the top tube, it's huge. if you've never done it before, pay attention to how the internals come out...

A quick note: the hard shells of bugs dried on the stanchion tubes can cause weeping. They make thin cleaner that reaches in and when swipped in an upward angle you can remove trapped particles causing the seepage.

The nose comes apart in less than 20" once blocked. Lossen the caps first.

Also, if a fluid flush and seal is all you need you can pop the dust seal w a screw driver, pop the spring, and run a screw into the seal on two sides and pry it out. Take a long pvc pipe and cu say 20 slices about 10" long in the end. No place a clamp over end and adjust to fit stanchion tube. This is your seal driver. Install new seals, spring and dust seal.

Dump oil and use new oil to rinse sediment. Overfilling the forks will reduce the air volume and take away some nose dive. Use 7.5 wt for a little better damping control.

Bolt it up and test drive.

 

[fazer1]

This is awesome, thanks guys!

 

[fazer1]

Replaced seals, fork still has leak

Hello,
I replaced the seals and springs with parts from Racetech 2 days ago, I have not ridden it much, but did today and noticed a ring of oil sort of at the depression level of the fork (see image).

I did the work myself at a do-it-yourself shop and the seal driver was sort of crummy for my level of experience. I'm wondering if I damaged the seals putting them in? But, it's odd that it's the same fork leaking as before, even though I replaced both sides the same..

Any thoughts?

Also, how much oil is supposed to go into each fork, I put 16oz in each one, and is it possible to top that off simply by removing the top cap screw of the fork without taking it off the bike?