Front Fork Rebuild questions


Hey guys. Looking for help. I can't find much other than a youtube video on this procedure. From what I understand is to install Gold Valve Emulators while rebuilding them, and using 5wt oil vs the OEM 0wt. I see a seal rebuild kit (yamaha part# 5VU-W003B-00-00). It includes 2 seals per fork. Does this seem like enough? The parts breakdown shows a few more seal parts that make me wonder if this is enough. Could anyone provide a list of parts, tools, oil quantity, and possibly a couple pages of the shop manual to rebuild the front forks? I've searched all over and can't find anything.
 

Midori

New Member
This is probably a bit late for you but I just rebuilt my front forks at the start of the season.

The Yammi kit is ok - it has some of the parts you need but i'd highly recommend replacing the o-rings's and getting rid of that crappy OEM snap ring! that thing is a nightmare to get off. If you ever have to do your forks again you'll be happy you did. If you're doing a full rebuild you'll need replacement copper crush washers also so you might as well buy the kit.

Here's what I used:

Parts used:
- All Balls FZ6R front fork kit. Qty (1)
- All Balls Fork and dust seal kit. Qty (1)

You'll need a fork seal driver - the youtube video's that show people using a PVC pipe are just not enough for our 41mm forks. I learned this the hard way after buying 4 or 5 different diameters of PVC piping.... The fork seal driver I bought is the motion pro one and while it works it is hard to hold onto.

I assume you're using the oil weight provided by RaceTech? If you haven't used the code on your gold valve emulators go do it. You'll get a great print out telling you the exact config you should use. Here's a snippet from mine.
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Thanks for the reply. I really wish people would post/reply on these threads like the Facebook group.

I ended up rebuilding with seals and dust cover while adding the gold valve emulators. The forks seem more planted now on the road. Nothing mind blowing but definitely a noticeable change. I went with a 20wt. oil as race tech suggested and drilled the damper tubes as per instructions. It was worth the money to me.

My only suggestions would be to loosen damper Allen bolt while clamped on the bike and tighten tree clamp points a little beyond the torque spec.

Also, I cut a 1-1/2 ABS pipe lengthwise to use as a seal driver. It was tight but worked perfectly.
 


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