FZ6R Spark Plug replacement

[arnie]

I never would have been able to change my spark plugs without this thread, Thank you!! Saved me a lot of money! Much easier than I initially thought. Hardest part was putting that rubber mat back into place.

 

[FZ6R 204]

Thank you road dawg, I just removed and replaced my spark plugs thanks to your tutorial. Thanks to you guys/girls posting in the thread sharing your tips and tricks as well.

 

[BlueShift]

Thanks for the write-up and pictures, but a lot of these steps are unnecessary and you could save people a lot of time by editing it. You don't have to take any of the side fairings off at all. You might want to take off the inner black plastic pieces (the ones that clip in and have the little plastic ring and pin fastener) but in my experience these will flex out of the way just fine when you lift the tank up. You also don't have to remove all of the tubes from the airbox, just the one in front that connects to the airbox lid. The other 3 in the back will flex and let you flip the air box back toward the tank. So, the only steps you need are:
1. SEATS: Remove pillion, seat and height-adjustment plate
2. TANK: Unscrew the 2 screws at the front of the tank, flip the tank back, unclip the two electrical connectors
4. AIRBOX: Remove the 1 screw at the front of the airbox (loosen the outer 2 gasket hose clamps if need be) and flip the airbox back. Undo the zip ties and pull out that annoying rubber cover
6. SPARK PLUGS: Now you have full access to the spark plugs, continue as normal removing plug covers 1 at a time and replacing plugs. Also, note that the plug connectors go 1 2 3 4 from left to right from the rider's position (plug 1 is closer to the left side of the bike where the kickstand is).
Hope this helps!

 

[MYRRGLOSCH]

Here's a how-to write up on changing out your spark plugs. I replaced the stock plugs with NGK CR9EIX Iridium spark plugs. It took me just over two hours to do the change out from start to test ride, but I took my time and could do it in less than an hour next time, knowing what I know now. It's a pretty easy job IF you are mechanically inclined. (My disclamer - If changing the oil is intimidating to you, don't try this at home)

I only used the tool kit that came with our bikes in order to show that you can do it all with just those tools. Next time, I will use other tools I have to make things easier, but for this time around, I used only the tool kit tools. (the spark plug tool is a must). I will try to keep this write up in simple terms.

I'm not going to go through all the steps in great detail, just show you some of the pictures of things you'll encounter.

Here we go....

STEP 1: Put bike up on rear stand or your center stand if you have one. Remove both side fairings and one of the plastic inside top pieces that surround the gas tank. There is also a small plastic piece on the sides below the gas tank. Removing this gives you move room to access the plugs from the sides. (Pic 1)

STEP 2: Remove the main seat and the tray below it (the height adjustment tray)

STEP 3: Remove the two bolts on the front of the gas tank. (Make sure you have almost no gas left in it. I had about a half gallon left in mine.) You can then rotate the tank up (the rear pivots) and prop it up with a 2x4 or something. That way you don't have to remove all the connections to the tank. Way easier to just rotate it up. (Pic 2)

STEP 4: Under the tank is the air box. There is one bolt on the front of the air box, remove that one. (Pic 3) Also, remove the hose on the right front of the air box. Next, there are two bolts/clamps on the bottom rear of the air box on either side. Just loosen these up. Then, remove the three hoses on the back of the air box and unclip the wire connector on the left rear of the air box. (Pic 4) After everything is removed/loosened, lift air box out and take it out.

STEP 5: Under the air box, there is a rubber liner that needs to be moved out of the way. To do this, remove the reuseable zip ties (Pic 5) (there is a little tab on the zip tie that you can push down to loosen up the zip tie to reuse it.) and the two hose clamps on the bottom. (Pic 6) This rubber liner needs to be removed or moved out of the way in order to gain access to the top of the engine and spark plugs.

STEP 6: Remove one spark plug wire cover one at a time. (pic 7) They just pull off with a little upward force. Once they pop off, they are quite long. (pic 8) Then use the long spark plug tool from the tool kit and remove the spark plug. (Pic 9) Before you replace with the new spark plug, I suggest putting on some anti-seize lubricant on the threads. Put in new plugs and replace wires.

STEP 7: Put everything back together the opposite way you removed it. Start it up and take a test ride.

I do feel that these Iridium plugs made the bike seem to run smoother with less vibration. Plus, they should last longer than stock, hence not have to replace them as soon. Hope this write up helps.

(Pic 10 - Stock plug with over 13k miles on it)

4/17/2012: DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THE PICS. Here they are, reposted

This is litterally the only info I could find for doing this so thank you so much!!

 

[DannyByrd]

Thanks for the write-up and pictures, but a lot of these steps are unnecessary and you could save people a lot of time by editing it. You don't have to take any of the side fairings off at all. You might want to take off the inner black plastic pieces (the ones that clip in and have the little plastic ring and pin fastener) but in my experience these will flex out of the way just fine when you lift the tank up. You also don't have to remove all of the tubes from the airbox, just the one in front that connects to the airbox lid. The other 3 in the back will flex and let you flip the air box back toward the tank. So, the only steps you need are:
1. SEATS: Remove pillion, seat and height-adjustment plate
2. TANK: Unscrew the 2 screws at the front of the tank, flip the tank back, unclip the two electrical connectors
4. AIRBOX: Remove the 1 screw at the front of the airbox (loosen the outer 2 gasket hose clamps if need be) and flip the airbox back. Undo the zip ties and pull out that annoying rubber cover
6. SPARK PLUGS: Now you have full access to the spark plugs, continue as normal removing plug covers 1 at a time and replacing plugs. Also, note that the plug connectors go 1 2 3 4 from left to right from the rider's position (plug 1 is closer to the left side of the bike where the kickstand is).
Hope this helps!

Very informational info. Thanks

 

[Rayzerman]

Just going to add a couple of things from my experience on various bikes.......
You'll tend to neglect iridiums for a long time, so recommend a sparing application of anti-seize on the bottom 2-3 threads... this may help with carbon wicking its way up the threads.
When tightening spark plugs, ignore all torque specs and read the instructions on the darn box. Install until the crush washer is seated by hand, then torque 1/4 turn more. This will not fully crush the washer, the pressure will keep them there, and should you remove and reinstall later, you still have some crush washer left.....
On spark plug boots, sparingly apply some silicone grease, which will help them not get welded in there over time.
You can use silicone grease on your air box boots as well, basically smear a wee bit on and wipe off with your finger until there's barely a coating. Air box boots should then slip right on.
Snug up all the airbox clamps, you don't want any intake leaks.
Final step when you're all done, you are due for a throttle body sync after all, so get your fave sync tool/manometer and do that while you're in there.
Note also, sync changes over time with valve clearance changes, so you should also do this whenever you do a valve check and especially if you re-shimmed any of them.

Happy wrenching!

 

[Rayzerman]

Well I went at the spark plug job today, and despite all the "stuff", I found it straightforward enough..... took my time, might cost me 1.5 hours... that rubber thing was easy enough to get out, but tough to get it down under the left coil and behind the wire harness...... anyway all cleaned up and done.
For a plug socket, I have one with a magnet in it (Autozone), used a 3" extension with a U-joint and a long 10" extension. Works a treat, that magnetic socket is genius.

Also did a throttle body sync while I was at it. Not due for a valve check yet, I'll save that for winter......... I see getting that valve cover out is a bit of fun......

Adding a couple of pics of my air filter, I doubt it's ever been checked or changed in the bike's life (21k kms/12k miles). Also pics of my TB sync and final idle speed (minor tweak)..