Dyno run (thunder hill raceway)


R

Rookasaki

New Member
Hey guys. Decided to run my bike on the dyno. I'm running TBR full exhaust, PCV and a K&N air filter. Max HP: 70.1 Max Torque 41.7 I didn't get custom mapping as that cost about 300 bucks. The tech did say I would get around 5-6 more horses. The tech is an old school guy who used to race professionally. He said the 6R is a great bike for the corners. Any way, here's the video.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLR0FT4Yevg"]‪FZ6R Dyno run‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

IMG_3697.jpg
 
Rook,, you say you did not use a "custom map". Did you use one of Martins? So I guess with that torque curve,,we do not really need to shift our bikes more than 10,000 RPMS?? Laurie
 
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CDN6R said:
Rook,, you say you did not use a "custom map". Did you use one of Martins? So I guess with that torque curve,,we do not really need to shift our bikes more than 10,000 RPMS?? Laurie
Click to expand...

I do use Marthy's maps 90% of the time, however I uploaded the FZ6R map from the power commander website. (FZ6R w/TBR exhaust map) You are correct about the RPM's the guy said I should shift right at 10k, anything after that I would actually be losing power.
 
300 bucks for a 7% HP gain, I'd say that's worth it. Should go get 'er done.
 
Theoretically, you should shift between 9k and 10k to keep it in the peak horsepower range. This would apply to stock motors, and slightly modded stock motors such as those with pipes and controllers. Easier said then done, timing and consistency are everything.
 
I topped out my bike a few days ago at 130mph.. (shifting at redline) That's all she had. When I get a chance I'll try again shifting around 10k... I'm thinking I should gain a few MPH... we will see.
 
theRook said:
I do use Marthy's maps 90% of the time, however I uploaded the FZ6R map from the power commander website. (FZ6R w/TBR exhaust map) You are correct about the RPM's the guy said I should shift right at 10k, anything after that I would actually be losing power.
Click to expand...

The TB map is quite lean... and yes. Pass 10500 it's like a vertical line... no more juice. You won't change that with fuel alone. This is the way the cams are tune...
 
I wonder if since this is an old r6 motor that is detuned you could throw in a set of cams from that motor for some gains? 70whp is not bad. I am not sure about bikes but they say on an evo8, which i drive, loses 15% between the motor and the wheels
 
Xfactor evo said:
I wonder if since this is an old r6 motor that is detuned you could throw in a set of cams from that motor for some gains? 70whp is not bad. I am not sure about bikes but they say on an evo8, which i drive, loses 15% between the motor and the wheels
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Don't worth it. If you go with more aggressive cams you will end up on the rev limiter before you get on the power band... Cheaper to get another bike.
 
Understanding the numbers

I am a new rider and trying to understand the governing physics in play here. I understand you would want to shift around the 9-10k for maximum HP... but what about maximum fuel economy? Is optimal fuel efficiency achieved at optimal HP point? Is there a guide to how you should ride to optimize fuel efficiency vs. racing? I've looked online at some tools (GearingCommander) to help me understand, but word of advice from senior riders is appreciated :)
 
onegin said:
I am a new rider and trying to understand the governing physics in play here. I understand you would want to shift around the 9-10k for maximum HP... but what about maximum fuel economy? Is optimal fuel efficiency achieved at optimal HP point? Is there a guide to how you should ride to optimize fuel efficiency vs. racing? I've looked online at some tools (GearingCommander) to help me understand, but word of advice from senior riders is appreciated :)
Click to expand...

Don't run high revs....
 
theRook said:
Don't run high revs....
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I instinctively knew that answer, but elsewhere on the forum i've read that shifting in low RPM is not good for the engine. I understand that this is not a 125CC bike and it's not exactly made for fuel economy, but wanted to do better than my first tank calculated 40mpg (i've read on forum you guys are getting slightly higher figures). I've been breaking the bike in pretty hard, but I was hoping it would be closer to the posted 43mpg (or even some 49mpg based on the fuelys i've seen on here)
 
theRook said:
I topped out my bike a few days ago at 130mph.. (shifting at redline) That's all she had. When I get a chance I'll try again shifting around 10k... I'm thinking I should gain a few MPH... we will see.
Click to expand...

Where you shift shouldn't have any bearing on your top speed. HP and gearing do (or factors like aerodynamics). Top speed is gonna be at or near your redline (or wherever your peak HP is) in your highest gear. How you get there is irrelevant.


Also remember that the faster you go, the less return increases in HP yield for top speed. Because the faster you go, the more the air you have to punch through is compressed...basically resisting you more. Which is why aerodynamic design is so important. In the low 100s you don't have to worry about that as much, but the principle is there...the performance gained by 5 extra horsies at lower speeds does not equal the performance gained by 5 extra horsies at very high speeds, because those extra horsies are wasted fighting through much more dense air.
 
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onegin said:
I instinctively knew that answer, but elsewhere on the forum i've read that shifting in low RPM is not good for the engine. I understand that this is not a 125CC bike and it's not exactly made for fuel economy, but wanted to do better than my first tank calculated 40mpg (i've read on forum you guys are getting slightly higher figures). I've been breaking the bike in pretty hard, but I was hoping it would be closer to the posted 43mpg (or even some 49mpg based on the fuelys i've seen on here)
Click to expand...

lol I figured... You will have to ask some of the guys who keep track of their MPG... I'm sure they can give you tips.
 
During my normal commuting, I shift around 6-7k. I usually get about 45 MPG...but, then again, I'm also maintaining 75-80 MPH for about 45 minutes at about 6,500 RPM's...so, my MPG are as great.

Shift around 6k for just normal riding, 8-10k for spirited riding...that's my opinion.
 

madmike said:
Where you shift shouldn't have any bearing on your top speed. HP and gearing do (or factors like aerodynamics). Top speed is gonna be at or near your redline (or wherever your peak HP is) in your highest gear. How you get there is irrelevant.


Also remember that the faster you go, the less return increases in HP yield for top speed. Because the faster you go, the more the air you have to punch through is compressed...basically resisting you more. Which is why aerodynamic design is so important. In the low 100s you don't have to worry about that as much, but the principle is there...the performance gained by 5 extra horsies at lower speeds does not equal the performance gained by 5 extra horsies at very high speeds, because those extra horsies are wasted fighting through much more dense air.
Click to expand...

So what exactly is the difference between torque and horse power...? is acceleration a result of torque etc....?
 
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