Christopher E
New Member
Hello Y'all,
Warning I have bad grammar and was to lazy to proof read. So no commenting on that as it's already been said.
So I joined this forum so I can help people not have to go through the same hell I did while trying to make a new exhaust. First to let to know what I found on my miserable search for information. i found plenty of sites but nothing specifically related to 2010's they almost always stopped at 2009 in terms of exhaust related modification. I know about Marthy's exhaust (by far the cheapest and from what I heard the best option) while excluding those who have a deep pocket and can drop money on a two-brothers.
Sorry about this, you will need this link to see photos as I'm having issues uploading,
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3kZamtdTH9fTFA0M0p4X0lybzQ
So I collaborated information I found and engineering knowledge (thank you college degrees). I found that R6 header do in fact fit perfectly on a 2010 Fz6r and obviously the rest of the generation which is classified with the 2010. The headers I found to work best was 1999. Yes, I did say best as I bought two sets of headers which I will go over later. Next was the exhaust tip, I opted for a GTYR due to it's small size, one of the smallest. (Remember this is an illegal exhaust tip and it's meant for close race tracks, however, can be fixed to make it quieter).
From here down is steps of what I did with related images of corresponding to that step.
1. I realized that what everyone said was true the R6 does in fact hit the oil pan of the bike, So from my research there were to ways to go about doing it. Hitting the spots where it contacts the oil pad, two somehow bend the headers back equally so the angle of contact increases thereby increasing space between the headers and the oil pan. Obviously the easiest idea was to simply hit the headers to make clearance. The second image from the bottom on the drive link you can see the headers I bashed in to fit. What wasn't accounted for in the inelasticity of the steel, so the headers 1. warped and 2. the top of the headers that go into the bike moved out of alignment there by rendering my 2003 headers I bought useless. $110 down the drain.
1. (Second attempt) I bought 1999 headers they have a thicker header ring (pardon my terminology) the thing that gets screwed into the headers themselves. These I maliciously planned out you can see my chicken scratch on a piece of wood i believe it's the last photo on my link.
-heres my set up.
-First I got a 4X6 piece of wood with heavy bolts and from tubing i found around my garage and bolted them on. (see images) The wood was long enough that I drove my two cars over either side to hold it down. I would then slide the pipes under it and head the headers up with the torch. I used a single iron rod to bend them. I actually had my Ol' man heat the piped while I bent them. I originally used 4 piped I cut and welded to a central pipe so i could bend them all at the same time, however, my welding is less then adequate as you'll see later and this broke. So I bent all the pipes and each time fitted them on to see how it was going.
- I finally got clearance to my desire and seen in photo. Also I got perfect fit in the headers.
2. The headers fit, now time to get the exhaust tip on. So i arranged the tip to the location I wanted. I bought so welding exhaust tub from the auto store, series of bends and straights. I cut these to length so I go have the GTYR exhaust tip where I wanted it. (located on the right side passenger foot frame). I first tack welded them together while the R6 headers were on the bike, then took them off and did the full weld, as seen in images my welding is..... less the par. but effective.
3. The exhaust headers fit, the exhaust tip is in the location I want it, not time to create a bracket to hold the exhaust tip on there by reducing the moment arm for bumps. For this i drilled a hole in the spot on the passenger frame, this hole is a 1/4 inch on a slight angle inward toward the back of the bike. Going vary vary slowly using grease and water. I used a 3/8th inch bolt to screw into the GYTR exhaust threads, and them bushings and a nylock nut. I painted them with a high temp paint and then with a black coating to match my bike. I threaded the bolt on backward through the frame using a washer on both sides to distribute force through out the bushings, then nylocking it on. Where I went wrong was using a rubber bushing and not a petroleum based bushing (the name slips my mind) So mine is cracking 6 months after. AS you can see I put a cylinder to space the gap between the tip and the frame so I could torque is down without bending the tip out of place. (this has an angle cut into it so the tip lines up straight).
4. I used RTV silicon on the headers as seen in photos as well as at the exhaust tip because the GTYR doesn't fit directly to the headers while using the proper wire seal it comes with. So I jammed it on with the header RTV to seal it. Works perfectly.
I hope this helps I love my exhaust, haven't had a single issue and the best part is... the tip doesn't stick out.
Warning I have bad grammar and was to lazy to proof read. So no commenting on that as it's already been said.
So I joined this forum so I can help people not have to go through the same hell I did while trying to make a new exhaust. First to let to know what I found on my miserable search for information. i found plenty of sites but nothing specifically related to 2010's they almost always stopped at 2009 in terms of exhaust related modification. I know about Marthy's exhaust (by far the cheapest and from what I heard the best option) while excluding those who have a deep pocket and can drop money on a two-brothers.
Sorry about this, you will need this link to see photos as I'm having issues uploading,
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3kZamtdTH9fTFA0M0p4X0lybzQ
So I collaborated information I found and engineering knowledge (thank you college degrees). I found that R6 header do in fact fit perfectly on a 2010 Fz6r and obviously the rest of the generation which is classified with the 2010. The headers I found to work best was 1999. Yes, I did say best as I bought two sets of headers which I will go over later. Next was the exhaust tip, I opted for a GTYR due to it's small size, one of the smallest. (Remember this is an illegal exhaust tip and it's meant for close race tracks, however, can be fixed to make it quieter).
From here down is steps of what I did with related images of corresponding to that step.
1. I realized that what everyone said was true the R6 does in fact hit the oil pan of the bike, So from my research there were to ways to go about doing it. Hitting the spots where it contacts the oil pad, two somehow bend the headers back equally so the angle of contact increases thereby increasing space between the headers and the oil pan. Obviously the easiest idea was to simply hit the headers to make clearance. The second image from the bottom on the drive link you can see the headers I bashed in to fit. What wasn't accounted for in the inelasticity of the steel, so the headers 1. warped and 2. the top of the headers that go into the bike moved out of alignment there by rendering my 2003 headers I bought useless. $110 down the drain.
1. (Second attempt) I bought 1999 headers they have a thicker header ring (pardon my terminology) the thing that gets screwed into the headers themselves. These I maliciously planned out you can see my chicken scratch on a piece of wood i believe it's the last photo on my link.
-heres my set up.
-First I got a 4X6 piece of wood with heavy bolts and from tubing i found around my garage and bolted them on. (see images) The wood was long enough that I drove my two cars over either side to hold it down. I would then slide the pipes under it and head the headers up with the torch. I used a single iron rod to bend them. I actually had my Ol' man heat the piped while I bent them. I originally used 4 piped I cut and welded to a central pipe so i could bend them all at the same time, however, my welding is less then adequate as you'll see later and this broke. So I bent all the pipes and each time fitted them on to see how it was going.
- I finally got clearance to my desire and seen in photo. Also I got perfect fit in the headers.
2. The headers fit, now time to get the exhaust tip on. So i arranged the tip to the location I wanted. I bought so welding exhaust tub from the auto store, series of bends and straights. I cut these to length so I go have the GTYR exhaust tip where I wanted it. (located on the right side passenger foot frame). I first tack welded them together while the R6 headers were on the bike, then took them off and did the full weld, as seen in images my welding is..... less the par. but effective.
3. The exhaust headers fit, the exhaust tip is in the location I want it, not time to create a bracket to hold the exhaust tip on there by reducing the moment arm for bumps. For this i drilled a hole in the spot on the passenger frame, this hole is a 1/4 inch on a slight angle inward toward the back of the bike. Going vary vary slowly using grease and water. I used a 3/8th inch bolt to screw into the GYTR exhaust threads, and them bushings and a nylock nut. I painted them with a high temp paint and then with a black coating to match my bike. I threaded the bolt on backward through the frame using a washer on both sides to distribute force through out the bushings, then nylocking it on. Where I went wrong was using a rubber bushing and not a petroleum based bushing (the name slips my mind) So mine is cracking 6 months after. AS you can see I put a cylinder to space the gap between the tip and the frame so I could torque is down without bending the tip out of place. (this has an angle cut into it so the tip lines up straight).
4. I used RTV silicon on the headers as seen in photos as well as at the exhaust tip because the GTYR doesn't fit directly to the headers while using the proper wire seal it comes with. So I jammed it on with the header RTV to seal it. Works perfectly.
I hope this helps I love my exhaust, haven't had a single issue and the best part is... the tip doesn't stick out.