Winter storage?

[Chip]

Well I just purchased my bike and only have about 90 miles on it...

So far I am looking at:

Stabil Fuel Stabilizer

Wash/Wax (what parts can we wash? what parts can we wax? I think its just the painted parts, but is that just the gas tank?)

Stands (BluePill, you say I don't realy need the stands, but my dealer said you should get them, any other opinions?)

Battery Tender Jr

Should I look into an oil change/ spark plug oil coating (like the manual says) or anything like that? my dealer said I only need the clean it, add stabilizer, battery tender, and a stand)

 

[FZ1inNH]

Stands not really needed. You can always roll thebike if you're worried about flat spots. No need to fog the cylinders... Change the oil if you're close to needing it. :thumbup:

 

[NYGirl]

Newbie question abt those Harbor Freight stands

Could I in fact roll my bike around the garage while it's on those stands?
They look kinda like training wheels.. would the stands keep it from falling over? I have a hard time backing my bike up because I'm so short. Thinking the stands could solve me problem til I get the lowering link done.

 

[FitZ6R]

Could I in fact roll my bike around the garage while it's on those stands?

Lift stands aren't really meant for moving the bike. A motorcycle dolly is more what you're looking for. For example: Low Profile Motorcycle Dolly

 

[BluePill]

Lift stands aren't really meant for moving the bike. A motorcycle dolly is more what you're looking for. For example: Low Profile Motorcycle Dolly

Still sits in the same position on the dolly, tires do not rotate. Seriously, look at the dealer's showroom - you'll probably see the same bikes sitting in the same position month after month. Many only get moved to clean the floor or when sold.

 

[BluePill]

As we approach motorcycle "off-season" and consider doing various projects, let's be sure that we have a full knowledge of proper tool usage.


Tool Definitions


DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, shit!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle ... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit usually smashing the thumb that is holding the object that you are trying to pound into whatever it is that you are working on effectively eliminating the need for manicure care on that thumbnail for weeks. See: Son of a bitch TOOL
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works
particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
Son of a bitch TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling, "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.



Now get out to the garage, and start that winter project!

 

[joloy133]

Could I in fact roll my bike around the garage while it's on those stands?
They look kinda like training wheels.. would the stands keep it from falling over? I have a hard time backing my bike up because I'm so short. Thinking the stands could solve me problem til I get the lowering link done.

It's actually easy to roll your bike on a rear stand....... However, you have to use a sturdy well made stand. I've seen some so cheap that i would not and your stature may make that difficult too.

 

[Chip]

Ok, I finally got my battery tender and extension for it from Amazon! (only took 2+ weeks ).

Anyways, I couple questions I didn't come across in the manual.

Should I take the battery out and connect it to the charger or leave it in the motorcycle?

Also, should I just clamp + to + and - to - or connect where one connects to the battery terminal and another to the actual motorcycle (like when jump starting a car)?

Also, how long should I run the fuel stabilzer (letting it idle) once I add it in. (too cold to ride around!)

TIA!

 

[FitZ6R]

It's fine to leave the battery in and connect the tender clips directly to the battery terminals (connect to the battery first, then plug the tender into AC, to avoid any sparking).

However, the best solution is to use the pigtail that comes with the tender, and leave it permanently wired to the battery, so you can just plug and play. A lot of cycle dealers install a pigtail at delivery, so check under the passenger seat and see if it's already there.

Fuel stabilizer: Ideally, you should have added the stabilizer last time you filled up (uhhh, I should have too - oops). At this point, add some stabilizer to the tank, bounce the bike on the fork until you can hear fuel sloshing around, then run it for a couple of minutes.

Thanks for reminding me.

 

[Chip]

It's fine to leave the battery in and connect the tender clips directly to the battery terminals (connect to the battery first, then plug the tender into AC, to avoid any sparking).

However, the best solution is to use the pigtail that comes with the tender, and leave it permanently wired to the battery, so you can just plug and play. A lot of cycle dealers install a pigtail at delivery, so check under the passenger seat and see if it's already there.

Fuel stabilizer: Ideally, you should have added the stabilizer last time you filled up (uhhh, I should have too - oops). At this point, add some stabilizer to the tank, bounce the bike on the fork until you can hear fuel sloshing around, then run it for a couple of minutes.

Thanks for reminding me.

haha, np

and thanks very much for the tips!

I was going to ride around and fill up again (and add the stabil then), but it got really cold really quick and I couldn't ride again

 

[Sandboxhero]

Does anyone know if while storing the motorcycle over the winter months you have to use anything like winterizer what about the battery?

 

[ashleyt328]

umm its suggested for winterizer for the gas, but i just left the bike on full tank of gas in the garage and i start the bike every 2 weeks and it starts with no hesitation. you can keep the battery in the bike its new enough it doesnt have to go on a charger (this is if the bike is in a garage or shed).

 

[fz6rwolf]

Winter storage for me was wax,lube chain, some Stabil and throw cover over it outside. Went for ride last Sunday and started up just fine. Have had cruisers had to keep outside and good coat of wax no problems with rust.

 

[dart1963]

Rats... er, uh mice

Not that this is a timely response and winter is over, but....

Went for a ride with my buddy last weekend, he was in a car crash earlier in the year and crushed his foot, so he just now got to break out his Ducati for a ride.
He winterizes his bikes every year, doesn't like to expose them to salt spray, so we got to talking about it. He mentioned how he tears his bike apart before he fires it up... odd I thought... so he went on to further explain that years ago, mice had crawled into his intake, chewed through the air filter and made a nest in his intake... that would have sucked had he just fired it up and had mouse dropping's mixed with his fuel/air mixture...

Just an early heads up...

 

[whatever]

winter storage steps

what steps will you take when you store your bike for the winter.

for me =

try to run no etanol gas if possible fill tank [ 1 ]
add marine grade stabil

rag or cloth in air vents and exhaust [ 2 ]

disconect battery charge once a month [ 3 ]

check air pressure in tires up the pressure [ 4 ]

i have 2 stands but i may just move bike once a month so it hits on different part of tire. [ 5 ]

oil change with new filter [ 6 ]


thats about it

 

[JSP]

what steps will you take when you store your bike for the winter.

for me =

try to run no etanol gas if possible fill tank [ 1 ]
add marine grade stabil

rag or cloth in air vents and exhaust [ 2 ]

disconect battery charge once a month [ 3 ]

check air pressure in tires up the pressure [ 4 ]

i have 2 stands but i may just move bike once a month so it hits on different part of tire. [ 5 ]

oil change with new filter [ 6 ]


thats about it

Thats the stuff right there. You do this and you will be golden. I dont do mine at all out of laziness, but I can manage at least 2 days a month to ride the bike as long as there is no ice or snow on the ground, I will get it out just so I dont have to winterize. Garage with a heater helps too

 

[Marthy]

Here's some idea for center stand...

 

[dxtreme]

Nice "center stand"
Probably I'll use the same idea to change my oil while I don't have my "real stand"!
This year has been warm so far, I could ride my bike till now... Love Colorado weather this year...

 

[Stephenfz6r]

Here's some idea for center stand...

I do the same thing except under the rear swing arms, I'll try this when I put the the bike to bed the winter hibernation.

 

[Roaddawg]

I do the same thing except under the rear swing arms, I'll try this when I put the the bike to bed the winter hibernation.

Not trying to rub it in, but I can't imagine having to put my bike up for winter. I go stir crazy if I haven't ridden in a week, let alone, not being able to ALL winter. That sucks.