random, miscellaneous tips


elishatarvin

New Member
so im sitting here watching tv and just thinking about bike stuff (like usual). one thought led to another and i thought it would be a good idea to start a thread filled with, as the title states, random, miscellaneous tips u have learned from working on ur bike(s). for example, a few that come to my head right now are:

1. the ground wire on the fz6r (and im assuming all japanese bikes?) is black, not green like is standard in the states. and blue is the running light wire on all lights

2. if u need the rear wheel to ever stay stationary like when replacing the rear and front sprockets, stick something strong (i use a 2 and a half foot piece of tubular 3/4" weldable steel from ace hardware; it has smooth edges and doesnt scratch anything) through the wheel and over or under the swingarm (will depend on if ur tightening or lossening nuts). i found this to be the only way i could brake a few of the nuts loose. holding the brakes and wedging something in between the tire and frame just didnt hold strong enough and i wasnt about to put my bike in 1st and get help from the tranny.

3. if there is a nult/bolt u cant break free, use a long breaker bar (a wider piece of tubular weldable steel works great) and use quick burst of torque repeatedly instead of putting high constant pressure on it.

4. when removing a bolt that previously had thread locker or any other material on its threads, use a wire brush to clean off the threads and compressed air to clean out the housing before applying new thread locker and reinstalling bolt
 
3. if there is a nult/bolt u cant break free, use a long breaker bar (a wider piece of tubular weldable steel works great) and use quick burst of torque repeatedly instead of putting high constant pressure on it.


Good suggestion. Very important to make sure that you will be pulling in the direction that loosens - not tightens - the fastener. Its an easy mistake to make, and with the extra leverage it's easy to break a bolt. Also, make sure the socket is fully and squarely engaged to avoid rounding the flats on the fastener.
 
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Not so much on these bikes but if you suspect a vaccum leak on any engine the coolest method I've ever seen is to start the engine and as its idling take a propane torch that isnt lit and that just has the gas seeping out at a decent rate and then poke around all the vaccum fittings and hoses and lines.

You will hear the engine idle up if you have a leak. The gas will be sucked in and burned. Then pinpoint the spot and youre all set:iconbeer:
 
Good suggestion. Very important to make sure that you will be pulling in the direction that loosens - not tightens - the fastener. Its an easy mistake to make, and with the extra leverage it's easy to break a bolt. Also, make sure the socket is fully and squarely engaged to avoid rounding the flats on the fastener.

And make sure its not reverse threaded. Not something u come across too often, but uf a bolt is bein a booger, that might be why.
 
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My 63 Dart had reverse threads on one half of the tire lugs.... talk about :confused::confused::confused: :mad::mad::mad: :rant::rant::rant::rant::rant:

yeah, luckily a quick call to the guy I bought the car from and he appoligized for not reminding me about the reverse threaded wheel lugs.


one half of them? whatever the engineers were smoking that day...i want some :steve:
 
that makes sense. for some reason when i read that i pictured half the nuts on a single wheel . i thought about each wheel individually not the car as a whole. maybe one too many :iconbeer:
 
Yes, reverse threaded lugs on one side of the car was common before it was discovered that taper nuts do a more-than-adequate job in keeping the lugs on the hub. Hella confusing though, going from a more current car, to something a bit more vintage!

To the OP: doesn't an impact gun work?
 



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