Y
yellowfz
Sounds great . :thumbup:
I only spent $40 for the parts for mine thought and used stock header .
I only spent $40 for the parts for mine thought and used stock header .
Last edited by a moderator:
R6 Exhaust Marthy Edition
- Thread starter Marthy
- Start date
I've been looking around for a cheapand afordable way to produce an exhaust system for our bikes. More than likely I'm aiming to use the stock headers. I believe it would be more $$$ efficient and would be just as good. I'm very happy with the R6 setup, but way too time consuming a FPITA to bend the headers.
Now that I'm dealing with some vendors to have something done that looks very professional and well build, seriously how many of you are interested to get one if I get into the "6R Marthy Exhaust" venture? And what kind of budget would be good for you?
Do you like to have the option to use any short slip on or the Supertrapp would be ok with you?
The 2 options that I'm looking at is:
1- I make a jig and build the whole system. In exchange of $ and your old (in very good condition stock exhaust)
2- I fabricate a unit that can very easly install by anyone. You buy the parts, cut, clamp and go.
Leave me some comments...
Now that I'm dealing with some vendors to have something done that looks very professional and well build, seriously how many of you are interested to get one if I get into the "6R Marthy Exhaust" venture? And what kind of budget would be good for you?
Do you like to have the option to use any short slip on or the Supertrapp would be ok with you?
The 2 options that I'm looking at is:
1- I make a jig and build the whole system. In exchange of $ and your old (in very good condition stock exhaust)
2- I fabricate a unit that can very easly install by anyone. You buy the parts, cut, clamp and go.
Leave me some comments...
More restriction
Less restriction
This is what I'm wanting to look into using in order to keep enough back pressure to not need a JB or programmer or better yet to the point to not worry about it, cause i'm broke, hurting my bike. The issue I have is not having the space and time to fabricate it also the ability to run tests and see if it is "working" properly to keep from running as lean as it would with the straight pipe AKA the R6 muffler I want to use. The ulitmate benefit I'm looking for is (1) to not run as lean, (2) to knock the noise lvl/DB down from a straight pipe. (3) Still keep a sleek look and no side mount exhaust. My vision is to mimic the R6 look. (4) before I forget... Sectional in order to swap catalyst as linked above and allow for different slips ons.
I would really appreciate some help making this vision become a reality. maybe offer up some drawings, I suck at CAD, or ideas. I've been thinking long and hard, thats what she said, about how to make this work. It's hard living in an apartment complex. :admin:This is the reason why I went with the Supertrapp, TUNING! I did some test back and forth with the number of disc. I ran 6 discs for a while and it's a bit too much restriction. Went to 8 and it's much better, it just scream all the way to the redline. At 10 I can't feel any gain and the engine feel like it start pinking a bit under heavy load on top gear (4th, 5th...) So my guts and butt dyno says that with a stock ECU 8 plates is the sweet spot. And to sound level is very respectable. Big difference from all open!More restriction
Less restriction
This is what I'm wanting to look into using in order to keep enough back pressure to not need a JB or programmer or better yet to the point to not worry about it, cause i'm broke, hurting my bike. The issue I have is not having the space and time to fabricate it also the ability to run tests and see if it is "working" properly to keep from running as lean as it would with the straight pipe AKA the R6 muffler I want to use. The ulitmate benefit I'm looking for is (1) to not run as lean, (2) to knock the noise lvl/DB down from a straight pipe. (3) Still keep a sleek look and no side mount exhaust. My vision is to mimic the R6 look. (4) before I forget... Sectional in order to swap catalyst as linked above and allow for different slips ons.
What I was thinking doing is mod my stock exhaust for the first try and sell it. If you are interested let me know. I'm trying to get a package that I can produce under $400.00. Without me working for free... Maybe even cheaper if someone want it without a slip-on and use is own.
6R Blackout
New Member
Marthy exhaust sounds great man, I think I am gonna go that route. I bet it sounds much better in person.
You have a point here Mate. :thumbup: I'll try to go as soon as I can. $$$ is tight right before xmas...
Winter just arrive in Florida. It's about 50F this morning. Not sure if it's because it's cold outside and the engine is all happy, or the shock setting is still at 7 because of the last weekend Florida tour? I got off the exit ramp on I-95. I did a partial stop at the light and turn right. The bike wasn't perfectly straith, I was still leaning just a bit. The engine was spinning around 6K... and I just nail it!!! I felt the front wheel get off the ground just a bit and the front end skipping about 2". It put a big smile in my face... it's going to be a good day today!
P.S: Take in consideration I'm using a 16/38 final drive...
P.S: Take in consideration I'm using a 16/38 final drive...
will be nice to see that kind of comparison.
Well... I have some good news, and less good news. First of all, I drove over to the dino place this morning with the stock pipe back on the bike. It sucks. Throttle responds not as crisp and the sound... So long story short, put the bike on, run thru the gears and 2 roll off run on 4th gear.
Result: Run 1= 70.47 HP, Run 2= 70.88 HP
Swap the pipe, same drill...
Result: Run 1= 68.35 HP, Run 2= 68.4 HP
Where I'm a little bit disappointed is that the dino wasn't set up to read torque. The only number available was the peak HP. But looking at the graph (printer too a $hit, no printout!) You can tell some gain in the 5K to 7K but very minimal. Everything look about the same as stock up until 9K, then I get a lost of about 2 HP from 9 to 11, and the same HP from 11 to 12500.
In conclusion, I can't be too disappointed about those results considering the investment. Maybe I got more into the set up, but we were not able to have an accurate O2 reading because the way the Supertrapp is cap off. If I had a bit more budget for another run or two I would have add some plates on the Supertrapp to check out if the bike can breath better on top end with less restriction. Overall I'm satisfied! I gain in the range I ride for 95% of the time, and at 9.3 lbs the pipe is about 1/2 the weight of the stock one.
So now I'm at the point that I need to find some budget to get a PC. Autotune might not be a bad idea if I can. Until then, now I know that the bike is safe to be driven the way it is... plenty of fuel. (exhaust pipe runner were a nice charcoal black...
Result: Run 1= 70.47 HP, Run 2= 70.88 HP
Swap the pipe, same drill...
Result: Run 1= 68.35 HP, Run 2= 68.4 HP
Where I'm a little bit disappointed is that the dino wasn't set up to read torque. The only number available was the peak HP. But looking at the graph (printer too a $hit, no printout!) You can tell some gain in the 5K to 7K but very minimal. Everything look about the same as stock up until 9K, then I get a lost of about 2 HP from 9 to 11, and the same HP from 11 to 12500.
In conclusion, I can't be too disappointed about those results considering the investment. Maybe I got more into the set up, but we were not able to have an accurate O2 reading because the way the Supertrapp is cap off. If I had a bit more budget for another run or two I would have add some plates on the Supertrapp to check out if the bike can breath better on top end with less restriction. Overall I'm satisfied! I gain in the range I ride for 95% of the time, and at 9.3 lbs the pipe is about 1/2 the weight of the stock one.
So now I'm at the point that I need to find some budget to get a PC. Autotune might not be a bad idea if I can. Until then, now I know that the bike is safe to be driven the way it is... plenty of fuel. (exhaust pipe runner were a nice charcoal black...
Mathy many thanks for the dino update. I have considered a freer flowing exhaust for hopefully a slight power boost but hesitated because I didn't want an increase in sound. Your dino results helped me feel that leaving it stock is for me a good decision. Keep writing about your mods. We all love getting new ideas from each other on our bikes.
I agree with you. I wasn't expecting some big numbers out of this. I was just trying to prove that this set up can be safe with a stock ECU, and it is! I just went for a ride and try to add some discs. I had 8 disc on the dyno. I ride with 10, then 12.(open end is way too loud for street use) I can tell a good difference on the top end. The engine zip all the way to 12500 in a heartbeat. If I find few bucks on the ground this week I will go for an other run on the dyno just to see... One thing I tough was very interesting was the gain on the bottom end with the bigger diameter on the primary pipe (R6 headers) Very promising... I can't wait to see what Santa is bringing me this year... lol:thumbup:
This was a good test Marthy...It proves that backpressure is needed to scavenge the F/A mix or it just goes out the exhaust and robs HP.
A PCV or JB will richen up the mix to simulate the backpressure F/A mix and with the ECU timing give you a lot more HP at all RPM.
The next test is to compare the SuperTrapp against the Viper and full TBR with either a JB or PCV installed to see what is the best setup for max HP and torgue at all RPM settings. Any drop in HP at a given RPM kinda defeats the purpose of the upgrade.
I think I need to get my bike to the dyno to toss down a baseline gauntlet for us to go after.
Good job!
Y
yellowfz
Good info , now you have me curious as to what mine will do when put on a dyno , off course I don't have the stock exhaust anymore , but using a base of 70 hp would be close .
Seems PC just tweaks the injector pulse width , man I wish we could get into the Mitsubishi ECU on these things and do some tweaking to the tables within .
Seems PC just tweaks the injector pulse width , man I wish we could get into the Mitsubishi ECU on these things and do some tweaking to the tables within .
I agree. It was a good test. After allI don't feel like I lost power (can't feel 2HP!)... But I can feel the gain on the bottom end, and much better throttle response. Including the -9lbs lost in the diet process...
Received all my goodies today! PCV with Auto Tune, Block off plates. About 50% installed. Need to finish the wiring, reinstall all the widgets back on...(fuel tank, seats...) And install the base program and go for a ride. The Auto tune can correct only 20% at the time, so I may need a few ride to get it to work propelly. (This is a safety feature, just in case something go wrong... the AT don't mess out too bad) Getting excited!!!!
Cool! Don't forget, it might run like crap the first couple of times, might even stall out on you until it "learns".
Looking forward to you next dyno run.
Well Don, you were right. It does run kind of crapy at first. I started with the TB exhaust MAP. After 2 run it starts to get a bit better. The 100% column is all complete! (100% throttle opening...) Now I just need to go for a longer run and drive it so the Autotune can scan the whole MAP. So I will do that and maybe go back on the dino in few weeks. It can feel a better top end already. Honestly... I can of surprise myself. Almost scary... I was getting on the on ramp and since there was nobody in front of me I wanted to use this occasion to... let say "get some data". So I turn and just as I did before many time, I nailed it WOT in 1st gear! It was ok until about 9K. Then for the first time since I bought this bike, I felt the engine "getting on the cam"!!! Thank god I was almost straith, barelly leaning. The rear end broke loose on me. It must have move a good 8" to 12". It started progressively, but still happen quite fast!