The Retrofit Source Mini H1 Projector Bulb Install w/ GTI-R Shroud
I ordered the above items and also some extra glue from TheRetrofitSource.com.
GTI Shroud &
Mini H1 v5.0 Projector as part of the
Sportbike 3 kit and
Extra Glue.
First you will want to go ahead and remove the fairing and cowling.
You probably dont really need to remove the side cowlings, but I did to help make any work easier and not risk scratching the cowlings more than I already scratched my left one when I went down.
For the front fairing: remove the black side and top panels. With these removed, time to remove the dash.
The Dash is removed by 2 quick connect pins and 2 allen bolts. Then just lift up the back a small amount and pull down. Then you can pull it all the way up and out.
Go to the headlight port and unplug the connector from the back of the headlight.
Now go under the mirrors and remove the two nuts that hold the mirrors on. When these are removed I would screw the nuts back onto the bottom of the mirrors so that you do not lose them.
With the Mirrors removed, now is time to begin working on the front fairing and headlight assembly.
There are 2 screws and 2 bolts on both sides of the metal bracket. You need to remove all 8 of these connectors.
Below is a picture of the assembly on, and the assembly off. You want to remove the bolts/screws that you see dangling in the assembly off picture. I then kept the screws/bolts like this so that I did not lose them. You will want to be careful as they can fall out easily. The bolts I would leave there, but the screws you could actually just screw back into the front fairing once it is removed to help prevent loss.
**I found it very beneficial to have my wife help me on this above step as a support when the connectors were removed. That way I felt secure that as I disconnected them, she was there to hold it and make sure that it wouldnt fall down on the ground.
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Now you need to separate the light assembly from the front fairing.
This is attached via the wishbone bracket you see below. Just take off the screws and you are done with that.
You could probably just undo the top screw and leave it attached to the headlight assembly, however, I was concerned about having that metal and possibly burning myself more easily later on in the oven process. So I disconnected it and screwed it instead back into where it belonged on the fairing and taped the bottom 2 screws into place so it didn't fall out.
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Next you want to pull off that rubber gasket behind the light. Mine was attached pretty good, so I had to do little pulls all around the circle, then on my next run around it came off.
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Then go ahead and unscrew the retention clip, taking it and the screw out as you do not need them anymore.
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Now for the part that I was extremely nervous about!
Preheat your oven to 250-265..
On reassembly I found 265 very good.
On disassembly I had to do 250 for several times as the glue hardened again too quick and was still too strong.
I did 250 for 12 minutes, then another 8 minutes, then about another 5 minutes. Trying some between each time.
Put your assembly on a sheet of foil or I just used a foil oven pan:
**Keep a very close eye on it**
When done you can use a screw driver or knife, but I would recommend a 2" Putty Knife. You want to start at the clip joints and gently get in there and separate all the clips.
Then get into the corners and pry them out a little bit.
Finally I found going to the "bottom" the arrow tip part, and gently prying in there and pulling it apart it finally seperated.
My wife was helping pull while I was pulling and prying also.
Take your time at this and do it carefully and have patience. Your plastic is warm and can bend or rip easily.
BUT it will be fine for these times and this temperature.. Just again, be careful and don't rush it.
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Now you can go ahead and begin prepping your projector and reflector case.
The Projector comes with a H4 Adapter plate that has 3 tabs on the outside and 1 tab on the inside of the circle.
Unfortunately, you will want to grind the tab off the inside of the circle.
This tab is supposed to help with the alignment of your headlight, however, because our mounting case in the reflector is not already straight up and down, your headlight will be at a severe angle. If you grind the center tab off, now you can align the notch on the projector to be straight up and down and your headlight will be level.
The projector came with the lock nut and the bulb bracket attached at the rear. Remove these.
Put the large Silicone gasket on the projector. This is basically a compression gasket between the projector and the reflector assembly.
Slide your projector into the reflector case.
There is a small square hole next to the big hole, this was the perfect spot to route the projector power cord through.
Put your H4 bracket over the back of the assembly now, fitting the notches into the proper spots.
Next slide your locking nut on and get it finger tight. Then use a wrench/pliers to tighten it more. You do not want it super tight yet, just tight enough to secure things.
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This next step will also help make sure that you have you light beam level and not angled.
Look at the front of the assembly and eye the top flat bar on the back of the projector.
Line that up so that the whole line is straight and even with the horizontal lines in the reflector case:
(This is the reason for grinding that tabl on the H4 Bracket down. If not, you would not be able to turn this to make it level.)
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GO BELOW POST FOR BALLAST AND RELAY MOUNTING. THESE WILL BE NEEDED FOR THE NEXT STEPS!!!!!!!!
After I had all the wires rough connected (hanging out all over) I hooked up the headlight to the bike on the brackets to make sure that I had a level beam now and that everything worked. When verified that all was ok and it was flipping from high to low and back, I disconnected the light and then ran the final routing of the wires.
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Take your kit outside and remount the assembled part of the rear headlight assembly to the brackets.
Insert your bulb loosely into the socket.
Connect the wires and turn your bike on, starting the engine.
Have your headlight pointed to a garage or some kind of wall to help verify that it works.
Verify that the light beam is level.
Verify that you can switch from high to low beams.
If needs adjustment, just turn the projector slightly to level the angle. (this shouldnt be needed really if did good job eye leveling it from the front).
If everything is good, take it back off the bike and then wrench the locking nut down very tight to help secure it in place.
You can put a drop of locktite on the threads if you will not be reversing it in the future, but they also say that if you ever have to take the nut off, you have to be carefull of the threads. So I opted to just wrench it on there as tight as I could.
*For the wire connections:
The projector has a wire set coming out of the back that you routed. I would not put the weather proof connectors or the connecting socket on until you are all done and ready for final mounting due to the oven. Just take your pins from the projector and gently insert them into the slot on the relay/balast. If it doesnt flip between hi/lo beam the you just need to revers those pins to the other slot on the connector.
This is also the ideal time to verify all your connections. There are only really 2 connections you might revers besides those pins mentioned above. So I used color coded zip ties when I found how everything worked properly. This made it easier during final assembly because I could quickly connect everything then remove the color coding. Just remember what color red/black from the projector went to what colored wires pin on the other connector so you put the 9006 or 9007 connector in the right location. If you screw up, just use a paperclip to depres the pin inside the connector; then you can pull your wire gently out.
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Now you are almost done:
I used a micro-fiber cloth to clean all the fingerprints off the inside of the headlight assembly. The clear plastic inside, the reflector housing, the silver plastic around the light and also the lens of the projector.
I also took the glue that I purchased from TRS and broke off several 2" cuts. This stuff is almost like soft Tootsie Roll in size and consistency. I then rolled it between my fingers to make it long and thin, about the thickness of thick yarn. Then I put these pieces end to end around the inside of the housing. I still had glue in there from the factory, but I wanted to help reduce the risk of any problems.
Once that was done, I then took the shroud and the shroud centric ring.
The shroud had a lot of extra plastic around that was preventing the ring from seating in. So I used a utility knife to shave off the excess. (This excess plastic was like what is on model airplane/boat/car parts that you have to shave off.
Then I put a TINY bead of Silicone II glue in the shroud to help secure it to the centric ring and snapped in the centric ring.
Next I put a tiny bit of Silicone II glue on the outside of the projector to help "lock" the shroud onto the projector so that it would not fall off in the future over a large bump or so. I did see that otherwise it could come off without much effort.
I let this dry over night. I also rough fit together the top and bottom of the headlight assembly and squeezed them together.
Later, I reheated the oven to 265, and put my whole assembly back in the overn in its foil pan for 12 minutes. When it was done, with a hot mitt I went around squeezing it together the rest of the way and pushing the tabs back into eachother. I held it all together for about 5 minutes while the glue cooled down, then it appeared to be *closed again. Then after it was totally cool, I went around the hole assembly and put a thin line of Silicone II around the seam for the assembly to help with moisture.
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Now with re-asssembly:
Attach the bulb retaining bracket to the back of the projector.
THOROUGHLY CLEAN the bulb with the included alchohol wipes. (finger oils, etc will kill the bulb).
Gently insert bulb.
insert new bulb retaining clip into holes and push down and over, locking into position.
Re-insert the big rubber gasket cover. You will have to pull the bubble outwards since the projector and bulb shape/size do not allow it to be compressed in like it was before.
I did not know what the black rubber circle thing was that was attached to the bulb wires, and it would not seal/connect towards the rubber gasket, so I instead used it as an additional wire organizer for my projector power wires:
You want to put the headlight assembly into the front fairing and resecure it with the wishbone bracket.
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