FastFreddy
New Member
Unless there's been a fastidious owner previously, you'd probably need new chain and sprockets as well.
I'd check the brake pads for replacement. My rear pads wear out quick because I use the rear brakes alot.
I'd check the brake pads for replacement. My rear pads wear out quick because I use the rear brakes alot.
alaskanflyboy
Premium Member
If you don't have the owners manual, you can download one for free at Yamaha. In there, you can find the maintenance intervals and the specific items for each.
As for the air filter, I'd buy a new one just to have on hand. It's only supposed to be replaced every 37000km (24000mi), though it is suggested to replace it sooner if you are riding in unusually wet or dusty areas. Once you get a chance to look in there, you can make the call to replace it or wait.
As for the air filter, I'd buy a new one just to have on hand. It's only supposed to be replaced every 37000km (24000mi), though it is suggested to replace it sooner if you are riding in unusually wet or dusty areas. Once you get a chance to look in there, you can make the call to replace it or wait.
New Chain and sprockets at 13,500 miles? i think they go a little longer than that? You might want to bleed the brakes they say every 2 years or so on the fluid but its probably BS. They also say the lines after 4 years i think. Make sure you use a K&N so you can get it off nice and easy next time
FastFreddy
New Member
OEM uses a paper filter. I prefer paper filters myself, looks like greater filtration than a sponge in oil to me.
Bert-Aus
Well-Known Member
Otherway around Fred,
Paper filters with oil allow greater volume of air to pass through whilst filtering.
K&N filters in particular allow for greater air flow (compared to OEM), but in doing so the filter is less likely to capture smaller particulates.
Foam with oil filter very well, but they dont breath as well as paper filters.
In saying that, foam filters require a little more effort to look after but they do filter better than paper -when well maintained.
If you want high volume output from your bike, you will want high volume input.
Either way they work, more smog/ dusty environs I would keep with OEM. If really dusty areas are regulary ridden, maybe consider changing to Foam filter.
EDIT
OEM is not K&N, looks similar but K&N has greater flow rate (ie filters less but still enough)
The K&N will give you a little bit more oomph (don't know exact amount, but it is a little)
Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2
Paper filters with oil allow greater volume of air to pass through whilst filtering.
K&N filters in particular allow for greater air flow (compared to OEM), but in doing so the filter is less likely to capture smaller particulates.
Foam with oil filter very well, but they dont breath as well as paper filters.
In saying that, foam filters require a little more effort to look after but they do filter better than paper -when well maintained.
If you want high volume output from your bike, you will want high volume input.
Either way they work, more smog/ dusty environs I would keep with OEM. If really dusty areas are regulary ridden, maybe consider changing to Foam filter.
EDIT
OEM is not K&N, looks similar but K&N has greater flow rate (ie filters less but still enough)
The K&N will give you a little bit more oomph (don't know exact amount, but it is a little)
Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2
Last edited:
I really wasnt looking at that, i have a had a ***** of a time getting regular filters off on my cruiser and the yamaha wasnt particularly easy either but nothing like my cruiser which i wound up having to puncture a long screwdriver through to turn the SOB and there is no room anywhere. So i only buy K&N with the nut on the end, takes 5 minutes now. I have to wonder why no one else does that makes it so much easier.
As for air filter i have not replaced mine on either bike yet, everyone seems to say K&N is the best and others say you have to adjust the bike, K&N has the main advantage you can wash and reuse it a couple times right?
As for air filter i have not replaced mine on either bike yet, everyone seems to say K&N is the best and others say you have to adjust the bike, K&N has the main advantage you can wash and reuse it a couple times right?
Ya I read that interval in the manual after I downloaded it. I would like to replace it anyway with paper OEM. Bike has no mods and I don't plan to do any mods as far as performance goes so I will stick with OEM. I didn't see any reason to change the chain and scrocket. When I had it safetied they garage didn't say anything and they look to be in good condition. I will probably do the brake lines this winter.
Thanks for everyone's help so far.
Thanks for everyone's help so far.
Bert-Aus
Well-Known Member
In the maintenance manual it shows you how to calculate if your chain & sprockets are worn, cant remember the measurements of the top of my head, but it is in there...
If you look it up it will show you step by step, how to check it yourself
FastFreddy
New Member
I don't think its so simple with the "more flow = more power" as the entire intact tract is obviously accoustically tuned. You lose low end torque when you change from OEM filter, confirmed with butt dyno.
FastFreddy
New Member
Here's some technical sounding big words to back it up :
DataSpace at Princeton University: Acoustic Tuning of the Intake and Exhaust Systems of a 4-Stroke Motorcycle Engine
Basically, Honda did a thesis on this in the 60s F1 engines, and its finally caught up to mass production. The sound waves ram the air into the combustion chamber so to speak, you mess with that, all of a sudden you drop VE.
DataSpace at Princeton University: Acoustic Tuning of the Intake and Exhaust Systems of a 4-Stroke Motorcycle Engine
Basically, Honda did a thesis on this in the 60s F1 engines, and its finally caught up to mass production. The sound waves ram the air into the combustion chamber so to speak, you mess with that, all of a sudden you drop VE.