FZ6R suspension question!!

[Spunky99]

OK, I feel like a dumb a**. I looked at my shock and I can see the preload ring with the numbers on it. But how do you know which number it's set at. I can't find a mark to indicate which # is the selected number. I had no issue finding the tool to adjust, but don't know where to go. Am I already at 7? Can't tell!!. Also found it's not too easy to get the tool in place and have room to turn it. The damn plastic from the fender is right in front of the ring. If you go to one side, the brake line tube is in the way and on the other side, you've got the chain guard to deal with.

I saw a previous post where one guy changed his setting on lunch break, so I must just be missing something. On the side with the break line tube I can see a very small yellow dot on a bracket, and some blueish paint across the bolt for the shock, but I think that's so the techs can see if you've messed with the bolt.

If someone's got a photo of where the marker is for position and how you go at the ring adjustment it would be great.

Mart Man....no dumb A$$es or Bubbas here....

OK...cell phone pic at lunch to clear up the questions. I added red lines to the pic so you could see what I'm talking about.
1. The double dimple on the right side of the shock is the marker for the preload adjust number. Align the number to the double dimple.
2. The preload numbers are stamped into the ring AND the ovals are graduated from largest = 1 to smallest = 7.
3. The tool works from the right side and you can get it to turn 1 step at a time. It fits in from the right and you push it towards the front of the bike to add more preload. Use the extension handle for more leverage unless you have an iron palm.

The pic shows my preload at 7.

 

[Spunky99]

With yellow markings as the red isn't as visible as I thought.

 

[Diluted]

OK, I feel like a dumb a**. I looked at my shock and I can see the preload ring with the numbers on it. But how do you know which number it's set at. I can't find a mark to indicate which # is the selected number. I had no issue finding the tool to adjust, but don't know where to go. Am I already at 7? Can't tell!!. Also found it's not too easy to get the tool in place and have room to turn it. The damn plastic from the fender is right in front of the ring. If you go to one side, the brake line tube is in the way and on the other side, you've got the chain guard to deal with.

I saw a previous post where one guy changed his setting on lunch break, so I must just be missing something. On the side with the break line tube I can see a very small yellow dot on a bracket, and some blueish paint across the bolt for the shock, but I think that's so the techs can see if you've messed with the bolt.

If someone's got a photo of where the marker is for position and how you go at the ring adjustment it would be great.

If you're standing on the on the right side of the bike looking at it, there's 2 little "O" nubs sticking out of the current preset. It's pretty much straight on if you look at it.

 

[Spunky99]

Has anyone investigated other companies outside of Hyper Pro? There's a couple other places that you can do a lot more with the suspension on these bikes as well. Racetech and Traxxion Dynamics both offer you springs based on YOUR weight, thus better customizing the bike for your individual needs.

Here's the FZ6R listing for Racetech: RACE TECH PRODUCT SEARCH (Don't worry about the 2010... it all fits the '09 too)

Not only do they size the springs to your needs but they have EXCELLENT cartridge emulators that you can adjust and drop in to make your forks act like a fully adjustable. You can continue to adjust but it does mean popping the caps off the forks to do this.

Motorcycle Suspension by Traxxion Dynamics is also a customized fit but you need to call and speak with Lee who will sell you exactly what you need for your weight and riding style.

Hyper Pro bothers me because it's a set of springs... that is it.... and it's not customized for you as an individual.

Thank you FZinNH..
I like the Racetech site. I was able to find front and rear springs that better suit my weight. I have no idea what the HyperPro is selling as there are no numbers to indicate the spring specs.
Also the combo is only $229.98 + shipping and you can add the emulators later on if desired. I think this is a better solution for the onlt reason that you know what you are getting and it is sized to you and you bikes weight. You have a better chance of getting the suspension dialed in right.

 

[FZ1inNH]

Thank you FZinNH..
I like the Racetech site. I was able to find front and rear springs that better suit my weight. I have no idea what the HyperPro is selling as there are no numbers to indicate the spring specs.
Also the combo is only $229.98 + shipping and you can add the emulators later on if desired. I think this is a better solution for the onlt reason that you know what you are getting and it is sized to you and you bikes weight. You have a better chance of getting the suspension dialed in right.

Awesome John! I used these guys for my FZ6 and was very happy with the result. I never bought the emulators but there's a few people in the forum over there that did and was very happy with the end result. It's a pain to get adjusted properly, but once done and buttoned up, there's no need to open it again.... just RIDE!!!!

They are great at Racetech... Traxxion is just as good but you need to call and speak with someone there. They don't have a point and click sale because they want to be sure they are sending a customized config for you. Also with Traxxion, if you send them all your info, you can remove your forks and rear shock and they will do all the work for you and ship them back pre-configured specifically for you. It's not horribly expensive (IMHO) for them to do this. You can do just springs, springs and emulators or get them all re-valved.

A lot of good possibilities out there to make this great bike an even better ride! Explore!

 

[arkkornkid]

I checked out the Racetech before, and did again just now...... I do think the various spring rates is a better option than a progressive spring. Yet another reason I haven't impulse-purchased anything, I'm kinda absorbing all the info I can get.

On a whim I searched around to see if there was such a thing as spring rubbers, like what NASCAR and other racers use. I'm sure it's been thought of before, so the fact I couldn't find anything for motorcycles: I'll consider that an omen.

 

[Mart Man FZ6R]

Mart Man....no dumb A$$es or Bubbas here....

OK...cell phone pic at lunch to clear up the questions. I added red lines to the pic so you could see what I'm talking about.
1. The double dimple on the right side of the shock is the marker for the preload adjust number. Align the number to the double dimple.
2. The preload numbers are stamped into the ring AND the ovals are graduated from largest = 1 to smallest = 7.
3. The tool works from the right side and you can get it to turn 1 step at a time. It fits in from the right and you push it towards the front of the bike to add more preload. Use the extension handle for more leverage unless you have an iron palm.

The pic shows my preload at 7.

Thanks a bunch. That's really helpfull. I wasn't using the extension handle or even appling pressure the correct direction. I'm at work now, but will be all over this tomorrow.

 

[joloy133]

I just finished measuring values to calculate preload for the rear shocks. I only had my son's girlfriend to help me today so these are accurate but not scrutinized by me. The videos previously posted instruct how to take the measurements using two reference points. I was dressed in regular clothes doing this and weight was 199.5 lbs. The preload set at 5 gave me a static sag of 31.9mm and free sag was 5.59mm. This is within guidelines by Racetech for road driving. There are design aspects which affect how much free sag there should be, up to 10 mm in some cases. Racetech sets values of static sag at 20mm and 5mm for track applications. As a starting point for 200 lbs. I will ride at 5 and see. Bike was cold in garage and temps do affect settings. (This is why I personally went with a progressive spring as the variables vary in application, temp., etc. I intend to stay somewhat softer for everyday use and trust the progressive design will cover me when I'm feelin it. That said, I'm sure the operating range of the racetech product will still be great, better than stock.) Wish we could dial in the fronts without shims and such but my bike rides plenty good right now.

 

[FZ1inNH]

Another cheap mod (but a huge PITA to accomplish!) is to replace the stock fork oil with a heavier weight. I think the stock os a 5w or 7w oil. Dumping the forks means removing them and pumping them out and then a precision measurement once you fill them.

Moving to a heavier oil in the forks makes the forks work a bit harder to push the viscous fluid through the valve gates. This doesn't replace the need for heavier or non-progressive springs but it will aid in dampening and rebound plus reduce the amount of brake dive in the front. Riders over 200 lbs can move up to a 15w oil easily and reap some great benefits. 150 to 199 lbs, I'd recommend only moving to a 10w oil.

The results of this are quite satisfying but it is a bit of an effort to get the job done. It is important to get the correct amount of fluid into the forks after doing your best to get the old oil out. Typically, this means holding the fork upside down over a bucket and pumping the inner tube many times. Then you need to follow the service manual for the correct amount of fluid to return to the fork. This is always measured in distance from the top of the tube to the oil level. It is NOT measured in a set fluid ounce. For the FZ6R, the measurement is 4.53" from the top.

Here's a snip to explain what I mean:

 

[Spunky99]

I just finished measuring values to calculate preload for the rear shocks. I only had my son's girlfriend to help me today so these are accurate but not scrutinized by me. The videos previously posted instruct how to take the measurements using two reference points. I was dressed in regular clothes doing this and weight was 199.5 lbs. The preload set at 5 gave me a static sag of 31.9mm and free sag was 5.59mm. This is within guidelines by Racetech for road driving. There are design aspects which affect how much free sag there should be, up to 10 mm in some cases. Racetech sets values of static sag at 20mm and 5mm for track applications. As a starting point for 200 lbs. I will ride at 5 and see. Bike was cold in garage and temps do affect settings. (This is why I personally went with a progressive spring as the variables vary in application, temp., etc. I intend to stay somewhat softer for everyday use and trust the progressive design will cover me when I'm feelin it. That said, I'm sure the operating range of the racetech product will still be great, better than stock.) Wish we could dial in the fronts without shims and such but my bike rides plenty good right now.

What weight oil does RaceTech recommend?

 

[FZ1inNH]

I just checked the manual... Yamaha Suspension oil 01 is the stock oil and this is a 5w oil.

A great substitute if you want to start out with a small jump is this: Motul Factory Line Synthetic Fork Oil - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore

To help get you on the money with the oil level management? Grab this: Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil Level Tool You can set the needle for the 4.53" and then fill the tube to close or even over. Then, pull the syringe to draw off the excess until it pulls air. Then you know you're "spot-on" with the level! :thumbup:

 

[JSP]

Hyper Pro supplies 15wt oil I believe correct? This is perfect for me as I am 215 without gear.

 

[Mart Man FZ6R]

Finally got a chance to get the preload set. I went to 6 and rode it. Felt pretty much the same until I hit a couple bigger road bumps. Ouch!!! I pulled over on the freeway and turned it back to 5. Much better. Firmed up nicely, but my fillings will stay in now.

I did notice one thing that caught me off guard. I don't think I ever got close to scraping or thouching anything on the ground with my FZ6. On the way home from my little test spin I was on the inside lane of a two lane round-a-bout which has a pretty tight radius, but no ange and I scrapped the bottom side of the ball of my foot area of my left shoe. I think from what I saw on the spec sheets, these have about the same ground clearance as the FZ6 so I was really shocked when my foot scarpped the ground. Is there just a little less cornering room due to the smaller rear tire, or does it just get over there faster with the smaller tire?

Wasn't able to get into the twisties this weekend cause I was too busy with the wife and working on landscaping projects, but hope to get up and put this bike through its paces next weekend.

 

[JonKerr]

I had to take the peg feelers off mine because I was scrapping in almost every corner. Now I'm still scraping but it's more my toe slider on my boots (They actually stick out a little wider than the peg) but not as often. And that's with me hanging half off the bike. The pegs are a good 4" or more lower on this bike than most sport bikes. (Don't know about the FZ6 though) If you take corners at speed and aren't hanging off the bike and using proper body positioning, you're probably going to scrape. The more you shift your weight off the bike, the less you have to lean the bike to make the same turn at the same speed.

 

[Mart Man FZ6R]

I had to take the peg feelers off mine because I was scrapping in almost every corner. Now I'm still scraping but it's more my toe slider on my boots (They actually stick out a little wider than the peg) but not as often. And that's with me hanging half off the bike. The pegs are a good 4" or more lower on this bike than most sport bikes. (Don't know about the FZ6 though) If you take corners at speed and aren't hanging off the bike and using proper body positioning, you're probably going to scrape. The more you shift your weight off the bike, the less you have to lean the bike to make the same turn at the same speed.

I never even thought about leaning off the bike for this round-a-bout. Like I said, I never came close to scrapping anything on the FZ6. I've read a lot about the bike being more nimble due to the narrower tire. I just didn't think that much more nimble. I took the peg feelers off right after I got the bike. I had them on the FZ6 and when I rode to work, would catch the cuff of my pants. Got to go. I didn't feel like I was pushing the lean angle at all, but maybe that's just because the 6R gets there so easy. I won't really know till I hit the twisties. I just know I'm really liking this bike and if I scrape, then I've got some good stories to tell. LOL