Exhaust, PC, Tuning, and HP rating question


Millhouse

New Member
Ok guys, I am looking into the two bros. exhaust that I know many of you have. On their website they show a dyno graph which shows about a 5hp peak gain total and more hp from 4500 up.

http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Dyno_Charts/2009_yam_fz6r_FULL_dyno.pdf

What I want to know, is if the dyno results they show are just purely bolting on the exhaust to a stock bike and dyno'ing it, or if the bike has been tuned with a pc or juicebox to get those gains?

I am considering buying an exhaust for my Fz because it looks like I will be keeping it for at least another riding season. At $900 it better produce more than a 5hp gain though with a PC or juicebox and a tune.

Does anybody know where I can see dyno sheets comparing a stock fz6r vs. one with a full exhaust and tuned with a fuel controller? I searched but couldn't come up with anything that says specifically what has been done.

Basically, for the $900 exhaust and the $250 fuel controller, I am looking for an increase of at least 10hp at the back wheel or its not worth it to me. So if you have any info on this I would really appreciate it.
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

Millhouse

New Member
I was hoping you would chime in Marthy. What I'm looking for is to get a combined total of 10hp from the exhaust and PCV. Do you think that would be possible? Maybe add a high flowing air filter too. I just dont want to drop $1200 for 5hp... Ill leave it stock and put the money towards a bigger bike haha.
 

DavidB455

New Member
Keep the money is my opinion. For 1200 you can get a lot more ponies if you save that money on top of the trade in value for your FZ6R. 10hp is a bit much just for the exhaust and PCV, you would have to do some more serious mods to the engine to get that and it would set you back a lot more than 1200 bucks.

David
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

Millhouse

New Member
Marthy your exhaust would be an option too. I have been following your cam thread closely and I would be interested in doing the swap too if it all works out well.

I am with you on the Fz6R power just not being quite enough stock... My previous toy was a 1990 Eclipse GSX with 500whp built and tuned by myself and it would wax the 6R's ass lol.

What are the block off plates you refer to for?
 

cavcuz05

New Member
I did TBR and PCV and love it...i spent the money cause i dont plan on getting a new bike for awhile...i have 6 payments left on my Bike then the title is mine
 

cavcuz05

New Member
I second this question. I've seen it mentioned several times on the forum, but I still don't get what the purpose is. Is it just more "pop" reduction or does it serve some other purpose?
also allow a better baseline when it comes to tuning...it doesnt give you any HP...but allows you to better you A/F Ratio without putting excess air into your exhaust...if im not mistaken
 

Millhouse

New Member
Dont temp me! I have already considered this... I have a TIG welder, I can weld stainless, I have alot of turbo experience... I just don't want to risk blowing up the stock engine or losing the reliability of the fz the way it is. It is tempting to do for sure though. Maybe I will look into it more over the winter and start making a manifold :p
 

Chucker

Active Member
For performance, do your suspension. For sound, do your exhaust. You can do your suspension for $300-400.

From MotorcycleUSA.com -
One of, if not the single best modification that any trackday regular or club racer can do to their machine to reduce lap times, as well as increase safety, is installing aftermarket suspension. This was shown quite visibly in our recent 2010 Modified Supersport Shootout Series. A quick glance at the lap-time chart reveals a substantially larger gain from Stage 1 of the modification process to Stage 2 as compared to the difference from stock to Stage 1. Since Stage 1 of the hop-up process was more engine-based and Stage 2 revolved around the chassis, this empirically shows is that suspension-related modifications contribute more to quicker times than the equivalent dollar amount worth of extra horsepower.
 

Nastybutler

Cynical Member
Elite Member

Millhouse

New Member
Ok I did some research. I think for starters I am going to go down to a 15 tooth sprocket on the front. I found a great gearing calculator. Stock gearing is suposed to be good for 144mph... if you can ever get there. Down 1 in the front still gets you to 135mph top speed and you should get there a lot quicker than stock gearing. Cheap, simple upgrade. I don't care much about the higher highway rpm its only ~400rpm difference at 70.

I was looking into suspension upgrades the other day too. The stock Fz6r suspension is very soft and I hate how the front squats so hard when you brake into a corner. $300-400 would be well worth it for this bike I would say.

If those 2 mods aren't enough then maybe I will look into an exhaust and power commander. I thought about it and 6-7hp is still a pretty good gain on a machine that weighs 450lbs. That would be like adding 30hp to a 3000lb car so I guess that is a considerable gain just expensive.
 

Frinksbonkers

New Member
Hi, although i haven't got my bike yet, i was wondering over here in the gib we have the FZ6 Fazer which is what the newer fz6r(or xj6 in my case) on ebay i can find lots of throttle bodies and injectors. so my question is would the bigger throttle bodies and injectors off the fazer be compatible with our fz6r?
 

Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

UselessPickles

New Member
If it's acceleration you're after, change your sprockets. If it's top end speed you're after, change your sprockets.
Ok I did some research. I think for starters I am going to go down to a 15 tooth sprocket on the front. I found a great gearing calculator. Stock gearing is suposed to be good for 144mph... if you can ever get there. Down 1 in the front still gets you to 135mph top speed and you should get there a lot quicker than stock gearing.
Changing the gearing doesn't actually affect acceleration and top speed the way you would expect.

Top speed will be affected minimally, unless you shorten the gearing so much that top speed is limited by engine speed rather than drag.

Overall max acceleration is only improved in 1st gear, but only to a certain point. If you lose traction or start to wheelie at some point in 1st gear, you'll never be able to accelerate faster at that point no matter what the gearing. After 1st gear, it's a mix of losses and gains.

More details and simulated results with different sprocket combinations can be found here: http://www.600cc.org/forum/f89/effects-changing-sprockets-23986/
 


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