Driven Sprockets - What part numbers? In middle of install :(


W

WeatherB

New Member
Hey Guys,

Can someone confirm what part number Driven sprockets are supposed to be used on the FZ6R? I'm in the middle of my install and the front one doesn't fit correctly.

The shop sent me:

Front - Part #1007
Rear - Part #5008

I think they're both wrong!

Please confirm and thanks in advance!
 
D

Deleted member 9794

Are you ordering from their site? If so, they don't list a part number for it in my receipt, it just has the following information:

Yamaha Front Sprockets
- CHAIN PITCH: 520 (+$0.00)
- Model: FZ6R (+$0.00)
- Model Year: 2009 (+$0.00)
- SIZE: 15T (+$0.00)
Click to expand...
Go to this page and select your year and model:
Yamaha Front Sprockets - 1041, 1036

Hopefully that helps.
 
D

Deleted member 9794

WeatherB said:
I ordered from a Canadian vendor and have the sprockets in my hand but they're the wrong ones.

Thanks for the link but it doesn't give a part number
Click to expand...
If it's the number on the sprocket, for the front it's 1041, I don't have their rear:



 
W

WeatherB

New Member
In case anyone else is searching the forums, the correct Driven sprockets for the FZ6R are:

1041 - Front
5030 - Rear
 
B

bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
WeatherB said:
In case anyone else is searching the forums, the correct Driven sprockets for the FZ6R are:

1041 - Front
5030 - Rear
Click to expand...
I have a 17 tooth and its marked 1041 as well
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
bleedinblue said:
I have a 17 tooth and its marked 1041 as well
Click to expand...
I just picked up a 17T front sprocket and new red chain for mine. I thought their was a thread on how to replace them. Any help/info would be greatly appreciated. I eventually would like to show my profile w/all the mods I have done so far. Thanks, :cool:
 
B

bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
urbanduckman said:
I just picked up a 17T front sprocket and new red chain for mine. I thought their was a thread on how to replace them. Any help/info would be greatly appreciated. I eventually would like to show my profile w/all the mods I have done so far. Thanks, :cool:
Click to expand...
Are you changing the rear sprocket as well?And have you ever taken the rear wheel off yett?
 
L

latony007

New Member
urbanduckman said:
I just picked up a 17T front sprocket and new red chain for mine. I thought their was a thread on how to replace them. Any help/info would be greatly appreciated. I eventually would like to show my profile w/all the mods I have done so far. Thanks, :cool:
Click to expand...
where did you get the red chain? link? Id like to lower the rpms on the highway but I would never attempt to take off that crap on my own. id have to dealer that mod.
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
bleedinblue said:
Are you changing the rear sprocket as well?And have you ever taken the rear wheel off yett?
Click to expand...
I currently have 14k miles, have only had the 1k, 6k, and 10k service. If the tire was removed, it was from the shop. Trying to do the work myself from here on out. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go w/steel or aluminum rear sprocket. So, I didn't pick one up but I figured it needed to be c/o as well. I guess I could've 'Googled' it, but that would be silly since I'm apart of this forum and I know someone here would help. Much appreciated by the way Blue ;)
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
latony007 said:
where did you get the red chain? link? Id like to lower the rpms on the highway but I would never attempt to take off that crap on my own. id have to dealer that mod.
Click to expand...
I got the chain from Amazon. Not sure on the quality though, its precut @ 118 link, w/no O-Ring. I think there was another thread about the pros/cons of having a chain w/o-ring to no O-ring. And this chains max tension is 7400lbs rather than the 50+ dollar chains that have I think 8400 lbs max tension. Red Chain cost me 30 bones. Lets see if Blue has any insight before I take it to the shop. I work on cars and I want to eventually work on bikes. My Harley on the other hand, I would love to just push it off a cliff. Cause the dealer loves to rape my wallet.
 
L

latony007

New Member
urbanduckman said:
My Harley on the other hand, I would love to just push it off a cliff. Cause the dealer loves to rape my wallet.
Click to expand...
LMAO, im looking at upgrading my cruiser and the only real criteria is NO Harleys lol. They do rape you for service and parts and the bike in general. Im looking at a Yamaha 950 or kawi 900 right now.

Thanks for the chain info.
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
latony007 said:
LMAO, im looking at upgrading my cruiser and the only real criteria is NO Harleys lol. They do rape you for service and parts and the bike in general. Im looking at a Yamaha 950 or kawi 900 right now.

Thanks for the chain info.
Click to expand...
As of right now, my dad gave me the bike (which is why I won't give it up). However, my father left this 2007 Harley 1200 Sportster out in the South Texas sun/humidity for a year. I have thrown 4 grand at this bike and is currently out of commission still. The stupid proximity alarm and key FOB aren't communicating and I have to take it back again to see if they can just remove/disable it. Probably need a new battery since its been in the garage for a month unable to start. If I did sell it, I would get me a Suzuki Bandit 1200 or similar Sport Touring bike.
 
B

bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
urbanduckman said:
I currently have 14k miles, have only had the 1k, 6k, and 10k service. If the tire was removed, it was from the shop. Trying to do the work myself from here on out. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go w/steel or aluminum rear sprocket. So, I didn't pick one up but I figured it needed to be c/o as well. I guess I could've 'Googled' it, but that would be silly since I'm apart of this forum and I know someone here would help. Much appreciated by the way Blue ;)
Click to expand...
I went with the steel, I've had problems with aluminum sprockets in the past, but that could've been brand/alloy specific.

For the front countershaft sprocket, you need to actually replace the nut along with the retaining clip.Its only like $12 for both, and I can remember a owner having problems trying to reuse them.We should have a thread about the countershaft nut and clip needing replaced somewhere on here.You'll need a larger wrench then most tool kits supply, I can't remember the exact size.But you'll be able to match it up with the new nut.

If you don't already own a chainbreaker, to do this properly you'll need one that can rivet as well.Motion Pro makes a very nice breaker/rivet kit but its pricey.The cheaper kits are hit and miss, if you try a cheap kit pay alot of attention to the reviews to make sure it won't just break.

To get your old chain off, you just need to grind down one of the pins.Then your chain breaker will be able to push the pin out with ease.I bought a $20 rotary tool from Harbor Freight.You can use a grinder, I just wanted a rotary tool for future projects.

After the chains off, you can replace your sprockets.Page 7-41 in the owners manual shows how to remove the rear wheel.I'm not sure if you need to, but I used blue loctite on my rear sprocket.

After you install the rear wheel, I put my transmission in neutral, lay the new chain on the rear sprocket, and rotate the wheel, its kind of like having a 3rd hand to help hold the chain while you work it around the front sprocket. You should need a 120 link chain from adding a +1 sprocket.

Once the chains in place, you'll install the masterlink and rivet it into place.Its another reason you want to buy a better chain breaker, cheap ones have cheap instructions.Some chains come with a clip style masterlink instead of rivet style, they are mainly designed for engines below 600cc.You can buy a rivet link seperate if needed.

After the new chain is rivetted in place, all that's left is adjusting your chain slack.We have a thread about that on here, and its page 7-28 in the owners manual.

Sorry for the long read and don't let my terrible communication abilities scare you away from this.Its really easy to do as long as you take your time to gather the proper tools.Just let us know if you have trouble with something.
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
bleedinblue said:
I went with the steel, I've had problems with aluminum sprockets in the past, but that could've been brand/alloy specific.

For the front countershaft sprocket, you need to actually replace the nut along with the retaining clip.Its only like $12 for both, and I can remember a owner having problems trying to reuse them.We should have a thread about the countershaft nut and clip needing replaced somewhere on here.You'll need a larger wrench then most tool kits supply, I can't remember the exact size.But you'll be able to match it up with the new nut.

If you don't already own a chainbreaker, to do this properly you'll need one that can rivet as well.Motion Pro makes a very nice breaker/rivet kit but its pricey.The cheaper kits are hit and miss, if you try a cheap kit pay alot of attention to the reviews to make sure it won't just break.

To get your old chain off, you just need to grind down one of the pins.Then your chain breaker will be able to push the pin out with ease.I bought a $20 rotary tool from Harbor Freight.You can use a grinder, I just wanted a rotary tool for future projects.

After the chains off, you can replace your sprockets.Page 7-41 in the owners manual shows how to remove the rear wheel.I'm not sure if you need to, but I used blue loctite on my rear sprocket.

After you install the rear wheel, I put my transmission in neutral, lay the new chain on the rear sprocket, and rotate the wheel, its kind of like having a 3rd hand to help hold the chain while you work it around the front sprocket. You should need a 120 link chain from adding a +1 sprocket.

Once the chains in place, you'll install the masterlink and rivet it into place.Its another reason you want to buy a better chain breaker, cheap ones have cheap instructions.Some chains come with a clip style masterlink instead of rivet style, they are mainly designed for engines below 600cc.You can buy a rivet link seperate if needed.

After the new chain is rivetted in place, all that's left is adjusting your chain slack.We have a thread about that on here, and its page 7-28 in the owners manual.

Sorry for the long read and don't let my terrible communication abilities scare you away from this.Its really easy to do as long as you take your time to gather the proper tools.Just let us know if you have trouble with something.
Click to expand...
I had a feeling you wouldn't disappoint. Thanks for the instructions and tips. I guess I'll have to return the red chain for a 120 link (unless I can add 2 links to it, yes?). I have a cheap grinder from Harbor freight to remove, although I'll need a chainbreaker/riveter to install. I take it I won't need to replace the rear sprocket then? Since its the stock steel version, should last until 20k I assume. If anything, I'll make a you tube video so you can see me having fun with it. Making a list of parts/tools I'll need (including the front sprocket nut/clip). If I get confused, I can always take it to the shop down the street from my work. They (so far) have my bike done by the time I get off work. Really appreciate the help B-Blue. Now all I need is to find cool logos like 'JT' to add to my bike.
 
J

JT

Monster Member
Elite Member
urbanduckman said:
I had a feeling you wouldn't disappoint. Thanks for the instructions and tips. I guess I'll have to return the red chain for a 120 link (unless I can add 2 links to it, yes?). I have a cheap grinder from Harbor freight to remove, although I'll need a chainbreaker/riveter to install. I take it I won't need to replace the rear sprocket then? Since its the stock steel version, should last until 20k I assume. If anything, I'll make a you tube video so you can see me having fun with it. Making a list of parts/tools I'll need (including the front sprocket nut/clip). If I get confused, I can always take it to the shop down the street from my work. They (so far) have my bike done by the time I get off work. Really appreciate the help B-Blue. Now all I need is to find cool logos like 'JT' to add to my bike.
Click to expand...


just find your theme and go for it!!
 
B

bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member
urbanduckman said:
I had a feeling you wouldn't disappoint. Thanks for the instructions and tips. I guess I'll have to return the red chain for a 120 link (unless I can add 2 links to it, yes?). I have a cheap grinder from Harbor freight to remove, although I'll need a chainbreaker/riveter to install. I take it I won't need to replace the rear sprocket then? Since its the stock steel version, should last until 20k I assume. If anything, I'll make a you tube video so you can see me having fun with it. Making a list of parts/tools I'll need (including the front sprocket nut/clip). If I get confused, I can always take it to the shop down the street from my work. They (so far) have my bike done by the time I get off work. Really appreciate the help B-Blue. Now all I need is to find cool logos like 'JT' to add to my bike.
Click to expand...
No problem, I'm glad to see you doing your own work.I overwhelm myself easily when I try new things, its alot easier on you mentally if you break it down into steps instead of thinking of the project as a whole.

While your waiting on parts, try adjusting your chain to see how easy and comfortable you are with this project.If it goes well, you can try removing the wheel the next day.That way once you get your parts, all you have to worry about is understanding the instructions for the chain breaker.

Do you have a owners manual?
 

Ravinx

Ravinx

New Member
I you replace 1 Replace both + chain. also 17 in the front will give you more top and lower rpm. 15 stock is all low end torque great for city riders. I have a 16 in the front best of both worlds. 1040 is the spline for mounting to the engine if im not mistaken
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Top