Hello , I just purchased a 2012 FZ6R and am learning the ropes as they say steadily in regards to winterization. I live just south of Buffalo NY and so even now the low forties and thirties are here. I've been able to get a handful of rides but the weather seems to be taking a serous dip. I have checked the oil and it appears clean and full but I know the information I have read recommends a oil change . I looked at the oil drain plug and am concerned about its current state - fearing it maybe a bit warped so I ordered a new drain bolt but it will take a few more days. I have filled the tank and gave it the recommended amount of Stabil , have it connected to a battery tender , cleaned and lubed the chain. and made sure the tires are fill to specs. I even have a Pitbull stand holding the rear and card board under the front tire to avid contact with the cold cement. The bike is in a closed garage which is not heated but no wind can get to the bike and a cover is applied over the bike. is the delay in the oil change a serious issue ? I would like to change the coolant even though it shows full, (test I did says 3 balls floating or negative ten ok) and bleed the brakes but I thought the oil change would be more priority. Can others tell me if I'm heading in the right direction wit all this ? I plan to have mechanic look over the bike good in the spring. --- thank you for any thoughts
Concerns over late start to winterization
- Thread starter WendyC
- Start date
steelrider
Member
In my opinion, you are taking the right steps for the bike to sit over the winter months. I do not see the delayed oil change as a serious issue, but I think you want to get it changed before the bike sits for several months. It's my understanding that as oil breaks down during the riding season, it creates some nasty by-products that you don't want sitting in the bike for the winter months.
I believe the brake fluid and coolant are generally replaced more on the basis of time and/or mileage versus being part of winterizing the bike. The owners manual shows brake fluid needs replaced every two years, and the coolant needs replaced every 16k miles or two years (whichever comes first). If you don't know the maintenance history of the bike, I would be inclined to change both those fluids before letting the bike sit over the winter. And as a side note, if the brake lines appear to be original, and you can afford to spend some extra money, I'd recommend replacing them with stainless steel braided lines. The improvement in braking performance is noticeable.
Hope this helps...good luck with the new bike!
I believe the brake fluid and coolant are generally replaced more on the basis of time and/or mileage versus being part of winterizing the bike. The owners manual shows brake fluid needs replaced every two years, and the coolant needs replaced every 16k miles or two years (whichever comes first). If you don't know the maintenance history of the bike, I would be inclined to change both those fluids before letting the bike sit over the winter. And as a side note, if the brake lines appear to be original, and you can afford to spend some extra money, I'd recommend replacing them with stainless steel braided lines. The improvement in braking performance is noticeable.
Hope this helps...good luck with the new bike!
Thanks steel rider, I managed the oil change this afternoon. First time I've done this and learned how to use a torx wrench too. So feeling good about that. Supposed to get a foot of snow over next few days so will take a break until system goes through. with the oil change and the Stabil in the full tank and battery tender on ( with bike cover ) I think the immediate set up is done . Watching utube videos- wow learn a lot . I have the manual but the videos make it easer for me.
You have the tank, tires and chain protected. The oil change can wait until spring, assuming you are not riding until then. Same for the coolant. So long as the bike is sitting, not much wear and tear going on. Trickle charge your battery from time to time, again if the bike is sitting. Come spring, you can start it up, drain the hot oil, replace the drain plug and copper crush washer and filter at that point. You could also drain the coolant, and again, there is a washer for the coolant drain. It's all in the manual. Yamaha will recommend the replacement parts and supply the numbers.
Don't stress over this stuff, and keep track of the plastic pop rivets when you are taking the fairing off, they have a way of 'disappearing' For now, it sounds like you have done what you can, so scan the manual, daydream about rides you can enjoy in the spring, after you take some time to refresh your riding skills. You can bleed the brakes when convenient, if your garage is heated, or wait until spring. Consider replacing the brake lines with stainless brake lines, and inspect the masters and slaves, inspect the pads, etc. Even if you don't go stainless, replace the brake lines, since they may be the originals ... ) Don't forget to lube your cables (spring, before riding, or when convenient) and check all your bulbs, consider a good LED replacement headlight for you list of 'upgrades'. Thanks Jerzee- I did get the oil change done yesterday before the snow came today. When I did it I did replace the washer but the drain plug looked ok so I just cleaned it and placed it back on. Thank you for the reassurance and yes I have been fretting a bit thinking will this wait?. The fact that I have no heat in the garage does make me want to stay indoors. It can get very cold . I am missing a pop rivet on the middle cowling but it came that way and the cowling is together in any case with the screws attached . I guess that's one thing I couldn't of seen missing in a visual inspection. I guess I will have to learn the vocabulary as well . Slaves and masters to me means a deep purple album. LOL- guess I will be having a technician look over the bike. been watching the utube videos - looks like coolant change and brake bleeding is in my range of doing.
Sorry to be speaking 'tech' Brake master cylinders, by the lever and foot lever, drive slaves (cylinders) at each wheel. Hydraulic brakes, (the fluid) work using them..It's all in the manual.
Lots of very good information on this site as well, so browse over the winter. Yeah, a really cold day here today too... My old bones don't like working outdoors or in my unheated garage much either... You can find those fasteners on Ebay, as a 'group', but since they tend to disappear, I find a group of them useful. The dealer prices for one at a time can be pretty crazy. lol Take care.Hi Jerzee- i bought the Haynes manual and it seems quite good. no worries about the terms. I will figure out what words mean. This forum has given me insight right down to how many f pounds of torque drain bolt gets. I want to try to try to learn every thing eventually. I'm still having a tech look over the bike- I know this will cost a little but I want to ride with confidence in the bike itself. going to ry teh air fliter once the mileage gets up a bit and learn to replace spark plugs. I don't feel confident with some stuff like head spacing and stuff like that