I tried to search for this but couldn't find an exact answer. So fz6r is my first bike been riding a week now and it seems like I have way too much free play in my clutch lever and its causing me to kill the bike a lot I don't reach the friction point until the lever is almost all the way let out I don't like that id like it to start grabbing at about half way. How can I change this? I'm tired of killing the bike because the friction zone is so far out! Thanks all!
clutch too much free play
- Thread starter FazerWest
- Start date
Move your clutch lever and see how much free-play is there. You can adjust it with the roller wheel next to it. Lever free-play should be between 10.0-15.0mm (0.39-0.59 inch). Dont just adjust it to where you think it should be. Keep it within this spec. You will just need to get used to it. If it is not within this spec, the clutch can slip and cause premature wear, loss of acceleration, etc.
Kdubb223
New Member
Have you read the owner's manual? or played with the clutch lever free play adjusting bolt?
I have had to adjust mine a bit, the OM says the free play should be between 10-15mm. Just twist the bolt in each direction to see which way tightens or loosens. If that doesn't work you can adjust the free play further down the cable but Id advise you download the OM before doing that. Also check your throttle cable free play while you're at it, mine had a lot of free play.
I have had to adjust mine a bit, the OM says the free play should be between 10-15mm. Just twist the bolt in each direction to see which way tightens or loosens. If that doesn't work you can adjust the free play further down the cable but Id advise you download the OM before doing that. Also check your throttle cable free play while you're at it, mine had a lot of free play.
Yeah, this is something a lot of people miss and it really makes a difference the responsiveness when you roll on the throttle.
Russ
Move your clutch lever and see how much free-play is there. You can adjust it with the roller wheel next to it. Lever free-play should be between 10.0-15.0mm (0.39-0.59 inch). Dont just adjust it to where you think it should be. Keep it within this spec. You will just need to get used to it. If it is not within this spec, the clutch can slip and cause premature wear, loss of acceleration, etc.
Yes i saw that in my manual, i just didnt want to mess with it without knowing for sure, the original owner adjusted the throttle free play but i will check it again as well, i hope i can get it to grab sooner, im tired of letting the lever out so far that i kill it...sooo frustrating!
You technically don't have enough free play, not too much. Turn the knurled knob in "A" direction according to the page Jay posted. First there is a little black tab that you have to lift out of a groove in the knob. I wish you could fine tune it a little better, but you have to do full rotations of the knob.
Based on the OP's, well, OP, I'm not sure what he's describing as "free play" is the same thing that the knob will fix. Correct me if I'm wrong here OP, but what you seem to describe is that when you let the cluch lever out it doesn't start to grab till the handle is nearly all the way released. That's not free play, but an issue with the clutch cable length. Maybe that knob will solve that issue, but isn't that an issue that can be adjusted down where the cable connects to the tranny?
If I'm coming out of left field here, I apologize, as I haven't looked at that cable in months, and I could be talking out of my ass. If so, let me know and I'll go back to left field...
If I'm coming out of left field here, I apologize, as I haven't looked at that cable in months, and I could be talking out of my ass. If so, let me know and I'll go back to left field...
i think SuperZoom's reply sounds right? i too, am very confused by the terminology... is a wide extended clutch lever actually "not enough free play?" it's confusing as heck. either way, what i think the OP is asking is how to adjust the lever action (which way to turn the dial) so that it engages the friction zone more at around the 1/2 way release point of the lever- as opposed to having the lever fully extended. And, according to SuperZoom this would be turning in direction "A."
my R6 came this way too when it was still new... and, that is, the clutch "friction point" was dialed way the heck out to where the clutch lever was almost fully extended before it would engage... after 400 mile service the dealer took care of it for me, so i never did figure out which direction to turn the dial.
my R6 came this way too when it was still new... and, that is, the clutch "friction point" was dialed way the heck out to where the clutch lever was almost fully extended before it would engage... after 400 mile service the dealer took care of it for me, so i never did figure out which direction to turn the dial.
thank you!!! you explained it way better than me!!!! i am gonna have my hubby work with me tomorrow on it, and stay in the spec zone of course! but yes i want friction zone sooner haha, thanks everyone sooo much lets hope i can get it to a happy medium!
Well, you've got two directions to try to turn the knob... You've got a 50/50 chance of getting it right. Pretty good odds!
Just kidding. Trust me in that you're going to turn it in "A" direction. That "loosens" the clutch cable, thereby changing the engagement point to earlier in your lever travel. If you turn it in "B" direction, your clutch will never engage.
Just kidding. Trust me in that you're going to turn it in "A" direction. That "loosens" the clutch cable, thereby changing the engagement point to earlier in your lever travel. If you turn it in "B" direction, your clutch will never engage.
that groove has nothing to do with it.
Actually yes it does.
Look, turn the wheel to the position that gives you the right adjustment. The right position is almost never where the little black thingy is is that little groove. If the thingy isn't in the groove its ok because the wheel won't turn by itself because the thingy is resting on the little ridges on the outside of the wheel. That's why it's rough like that.
The deep slot (groove) is there to help you remove the cable from the clutch lever.
You guys that think you know everything are very annoying to those who actually do....LOL.
The deep slot (groove) is there to help you remove the cable from the clutch lever.
You guys that think you know everything are very annoying to those who actually do....LOL.
Kdubb223
New Member
agreed, I don't have the groove lined up perfectly with the black tab... Cant fine tune the adjustment that way. As stated, there is a reason that the wheel has all those "teeth" around it...
Sigh... You win. Feel good?
You are the winner cause now you can get your clutch just right. Get out there and ride safely.
Clutch? We don't need no stinking clutch!
S
SkyOrDie
worn clutch plates
My thoughts are similar to NastyButler's first post on this topic. The adjuster puts the correct amount of slack in the cable. It won't really affect where the friction point lies. I think the clutch plates are worn thin putting the friction point closer and closer to the hands-off position.
-Stan
My thoughts are similar to NastyButler's first post on this topic. The adjuster puts the correct amount of slack in the cable. It won't really affect where the friction point lies. I think the clutch plates are worn thin putting the friction point closer and closer to the hands-off position.
-Stan
