ROFL, that's not exactly what I had in mind when I named her, LOL!!!
Chain! My @$$! RRRRR!
- Thread starter buzzbomb
- Start date
A few people I know swear by the DuPont dry teflon lube, with no cleaning. Since the stuff is dry, it doesn't attract gunk. I have not tried this myself, but the ones who do it this way claim a lot less time spent on chain maintenance, and better chain life. Keep in mind I'm in a relatively dry climate.
Well, yes. I have a name for my girl. My life depends upon her. She makes me smile, she makes me sad. She is the part of me that cries for a freedom that we cannot normally find. She takes me to places I would not otherwise go, and then she takes me back again. She brings me peace, where sometimes, life makes that a difficult thing to find.You have a name for your motorcycle?!
Did you name your refrigerator and a dishwasher too?
My Tora Tanshi is my release upon the woes of life. When I ride her, when I really ride her, I have wings. I am free. I float and I fly, I am more than a bird, than a jet or even a celestial object. When I REALLY RIDE, I am released.
Yes I named her. She is not a common appliance. Sure, it's a machine. But to me personally, she is more than that.
So I named her. I actually worked for a very long time, to find a name that I thought was appropriate. "Tiger." That's what she is. She kind of lurks in the background. Until you push her. Then she's all ROAAAARRRRR, and she's all attack. You do it right, and she'll attack a corner like a fighter plane in a dogfight.
"Angel" She's saved my ass more than once. When I was all attack and screwed up. It was her forgiving personality that saved me.
She is my Tiger Angel. Because Yamaha is Japanese, I thought she deserved a Japanese name. Tora Tanshi. Tiger Angel.
Put more than fifteen thousand miles on your's in a years time, and see if your thoughts concerning that "machine" do not change. If you do that, and you still cannot name your motorcycle?
Then I actually feel sorry for you.
Fair enough questions. Honestly on my previous motorcycles, I never cleaned or lubed the chain. I tightened it up, it got loose, I tightened it again. Then it got stretched and I'd replace it.
Here's the thing, though: I never did ANY maintenance on my previous bikes. Read that as NONE. So stuff wore out prematurely, and caused me some grief.
I determined to change that, on my Torah Tanshi. Personal experience had shown me that lack of maintenance would destroy the best of machines. Cars and bikes, I've a long list behind me.
The problem I'm having is that the DID chain is top line. It's not cheap junk. I performed the maintenance per manual, and it is failing. In my mind, prematurely.
The chain and sprockets are indeed a "consumable." They get used up, just like tires or light bulbs. I feel, though that the chain had dies prematurely.
I don't think it's the grunge brush. The bristles are hard, yes. But they do not reach the O-rings. The O-rings are internal, in the links. The brush cannot touch them.
I guess this is the gist of it: I spent lots of time cleaning and lubing that chain. I spent lots of money on chain lubes. The chain has failed, to my mind, long before it should have.
The stock chain is a good-quality DID. Here's the options:
1. The chain is crap.
2. My maintenance was crap.
I just sent an email to DID. We'll see what they say.
SurfJunkie
New Member
As i had stated , a grunge brush damages O-rings and may contribute to pre-mature chain wear. They are much too stiff.
1. Change the chain now. Dont wait. If you ride/commute every day, just do it now. It is your only means of power to the ground and losing one at freeway speeds will NOT be a good time. Use a rivet link on the new chain or face potential master link DESTRUCTION.
2. 12-15K is about average for most chains. Maybe ditch the brush and just use a rag on the new chain and see if it lasts longer. Keep in mind when you lube, lube the o-rings not the rollers. My stock DID chain was toast at 12-13K. O-rings were coming apart and getting stuck in the grease pile under the primary cover. Ive since switched to their X-ring and ditched the grunge brush.
3. Sprockets look OK ? If they are worn down or no longer uniform, may as well swap those while you are in there. NOTE: Get the primary loose before you remove the chain.
1. Change the chain now. Dont wait. If you ride/commute every day, just do it now. It is your only means of power to the ground and losing one at freeway speeds will NOT be a good time. Use a rivet link on the new chain or face potential master link DESTRUCTION.
2. 12-15K is about average for most chains. Maybe ditch the brush and just use a rag on the new chain and see if it lasts longer. Keep in mind when you lube, lube the o-rings not the rollers. My stock DID chain was toast at 12-13K. O-rings were coming apart and getting stuck in the grease pile under the primary cover. Ive since switched to their X-ring and ditched the grunge brush.
3. Sprockets look OK ? If they are worn down or no longer uniform, may as well swap those while you are in there. NOTE: Get the primary loose before you remove the chain.
I thought the point of the grunge brush was to get into the little cracks and crevasses of your chain. And I thought the o-rings were in fact quite exposed, between the inner and outer side plates. I would imagine it would be impossible to avoid scrubbing the o-rings with the grunge brush bristles. Can you explain how you don't touch the o-rings with the brush?
The O-rings are definitely exposed to brush bristles and other stuff poking at them. I think many people seriously over-clean. As I said earlier, the people I've known who've gotten the most life out of their chains use the DuPont dry lube and do little or nothing more than that. The dry lube doesn't attract much junk, so there's not much need to clean aggressively.
I misunderstood where the o'rings were. I thought they were internal. My bad.
Deathdiesel
New Member
Hey guys, gunna attempt to sightly derail here, what do you guys consider clean and dirty chains? got pics?
Just cleaned and lubed my chain, and man it seems like you can never get all the black off, no matter how hard you try. FWIW I use a rag, no brush. I would love to get a white chain someday, but im afraid it would look filthy always.
Just cleaned and lubed my chain, and man it seems like you can never get all the black off, no matter how hard you try. FWIW I use a rag, no brush. I would love to get a white chain someday, but im afraid it would look filthy always.
FastFreddy
New Member
My chain always looks brand new, I'd be embarassed if I couldn't see shiny metal on every link.
1. Kero in a spray bottle, pump about 400ml onto the chain, spray more on sticky links.
2. Wipe with 2 old Tshirts. Dirty-ish one first, then the cleaner rag.
3. Apply lube. ( I like the 1/2 wax, 1/2 oily ones, most are too oily or too waxy)
It takes about 5-10 minutes. I've got all the sprays and cleaning products in my car boot these days.
I used to use a grunge brush, but stopped after the first chain didn't last as long as expected. The 2nd chain and sprockets have already lived longer and I've only done 1 adjustment of tension in 20000km with the routine above.
1. Kero in a spray bottle, pump about 400ml onto the chain, spray more on sticky links.
2. Wipe with 2 old Tshirts. Dirty-ish one first, then the cleaner rag.
3. Apply lube. ( I like the 1/2 wax, 1/2 oily ones, most are too oily or too waxy)
It takes about 5-10 minutes. I've got all the sprays and cleaning products in my car boot these days.
I used to use a grunge brush, but stopped after the first chain didn't last as long as expected. The 2nd chain and sprockets have already lived longer and I've only done 1 adjustment of tension in 20000km with the routine above.
Uhm.... 50kmiles, on my second chain
Hence why I jumped all over the group buy.
Once a week when commuting every day (75 miles/ day)... clean with kerosene or can cleaner... let it dry... lube with pj black label... let it sit overnight before riding...
I have a grunge brush, but only use it if the chain is really bad, and just lay it on, spin tire once or twice...otherwise I just spray the cleaner on and then hose it off
Hence why I jumped all over the group buy.
Once a week when commuting every day (75 miles/ day)... clean with kerosene or can cleaner... let it dry... lube with pj black label... let it sit overnight before riding...
I have a grunge brush, but only use it if the chain is really bad, and just lay it on, spin tire once or twice...otherwise I just spray the cleaner on and then hose it off
Yep. Gonna change my chain cleaning regimen. After all the input, I'm seriously doubting the benefits of the Grunge Brush. I'm not riding offroad, afterall.
Still, I want something to get the hard stuff off the chain. I'm currently thinking maybe a shower brush or something similar. Just something with some bristles to bust up the gunk.
I've been thinking about my chain dying so quickly a lot. I've got a theory: I think it may have been over-tight. My sticky links could be accounted for by being bent, just a little bit. I've got some harsh bumps I go over, and I've felt the chain tighten up on the sprockets, as the suspension worked.
"Tighten the preload!" is the next thing to be heard. OK. I weigh 140lbs when wet. I'm running at the number three preload. I honestly think that's about right.
I got in on the Group Buy. New chain and sprockets on the way. I think I'll lose the Grunge Brush and run just a little looser on the chain.
I'll let ya'll know how it works out.
Still, I want something to get the hard stuff off the chain. I'm currently thinking maybe a shower brush or something similar. Just something with some bristles to bust up the gunk.
I've been thinking about my chain dying so quickly a lot. I've got a theory: I think it may have been over-tight. My sticky links could be accounted for by being bent, just a little bit. I've got some harsh bumps I go over, and I've felt the chain tighten up on the sprockets, as the suspension worked.
"Tighten the preload!" is the next thing to be heard. OK. I weigh 140lbs when wet. I'm running at the number three preload. I honestly think that's about right.
I got in on the Group Buy. New chain and sprockets on the way. I think I'll lose the Grunge Brush and run just a little looser on the chain.
I'll let ya'll know how it works out.
I think you're overthinking it a bit.
I personally have zero experience with the Grunge Brush, but have used a somewhat similar Tirox brush (Motorcycle Chain Cleaner Brush, Ultra Lube, Bike Wash, Speed Wax, by Tirox Motorcycle Maintenance) to clean my chain for probably 60-70k km's or thereabouts. Don't think it's done anything bad to it at all, gets it super shiny in no time though.
I personally have zero experience with the Grunge Brush, but have used a somewhat similar Tirox brush (Motorcycle Chain Cleaner Brush, Ultra Lube, Bike Wash, Speed Wax, by Tirox Motorcycle Maintenance) to clean my chain for probably 60-70k km's or thereabouts. Don't think it's done anything bad to it at all, gets it super shiny in no time though.
xenofiler
New Member
Getting the right chain. Help?
So, I have a FZ6R 2010 14700 miles. Bought new and now it looks like its time to change the chain. I went to the shop where i have it serviced and they showed me the supplies and gave me tips to make it last a bit longer. I have a bunch of links that are stiff and after 3 hours of cleaning with degreaser first using the Grunge Brush. When I washed down the chain and then took a towel to it to wipe off the excess I found multiple links that were stiff, locked into position and some could not be loosened up. I then used some WD40 and was able to loosen up some links but there are some links that could not be loosened up. The chain has not severely stretched out maybe .5 of a tick on bar.
So as a preventive I started looking at chains.
Looking here I am confused. Street Motorcycle Roller Chains Chains Accessories - Motorcycle Superstore
I know my chain is a 520 and 118 links for a stock setup. My sprockets have limited wear and can keep going with a chain replacement for now.
So Any suggestions on what manufacturers you have had good experiences with? Is there better places to look? My cost range is 30-60 USD at this time. However I can plead my case with my wife (usually she just goes with what I say) and increase that up to $100.00. I was really looking forward either an inexpensive chain or chain/sprocket deals.
Oh and my riding is 6 miles a day round trip with weekend rides of up to 600miles with speeds sometimes exceeding 120mph. The weather here is foggy, on the coast and a very short summer with lots of rain/salt. I would like to be able to find a chain that works with the weather conditions and my riding.
Thanks everybody for your time and possible future responses.
So, I have a FZ6R 2010 14700 miles. Bought new and now it looks like its time to change the chain. I went to the shop where i have it serviced and they showed me the supplies and gave me tips to make it last a bit longer. I have a bunch of links that are stiff and after 3 hours of cleaning with degreaser first using the Grunge Brush. When I washed down the chain and then took a towel to it to wipe off the excess I found multiple links that were stiff, locked into position and some could not be loosened up. I then used some WD40 and was able to loosen up some links but there are some links that could not be loosened up. The chain has not severely stretched out maybe .5 of a tick on bar.
So as a preventive I started looking at chains.
Looking here I am confused. Street Motorcycle Roller Chains Chains Accessories - Motorcycle Superstore
I know my chain is a 520 and 118 links for a stock setup. My sprockets have limited wear and can keep going with a chain replacement for now.
So Any suggestions on what manufacturers you have had good experiences with? Is there better places to look? My cost range is 30-60 USD at this time. However I can plead my case with my wife (usually she just goes with what I say) and increase that up to $100.00. I was really looking forward either an inexpensive chain or chain/sprocket deals.
Oh and my riding is 6 miles a day round trip with weekend rides of up to 600miles with speeds sometimes exceeding 120mph. The weather here is foggy, on the coast and a very short summer with lots of rain/salt. I would like to be able to find a chain that works with the weather conditions and my riding.
Thanks everybody for your time and possible future responses.
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We just did a group buy with Tyler as Solomotoparts... $140-180 will get you a new chain and both sprockets.... if you just want a chain (not recommended at all), call and speak with Tyler... EK or DID with an x-ring o-ring and a color finish should last a lot longer than the standard stock chain...
So, I think I know why my DID failed. I got in on the Group Buy on the chain and sprockets.
Problem is, I have neither a breaker nor a riveter. I've been looking at videos of a cheap breaker from Harborfreight:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd83Y_hjbEU]Chain installation replacement rivet tool cheap harbor freight 530 motorcycle - YouTube[/ame]
Ten bucks vs. $125 for the RK set. What do you all think?
Problem is, I have neither a breaker nor a riveter. I've been looking at videos of a cheap breaker from Harborfreight:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd83Y_hjbEU]Chain installation replacement rivet tool cheap harbor freight 530 motorcycle - YouTube[/ame]
Ten bucks vs. $125 for the RK set. What do you all think?
I know people here use it, but I can't remember where I saw the discussion on here.Its what I plan to buy.
My question is, can I buy a masterlink chain, then use a rivet link instead of a masterlink?Parts unlimited has black 520 o ring chains 25' for $130 but it comes with 5 master links instead of 5 rivet links.I'd like to buy a quantity of chain to cut down as needed so I just need new sprockets every year.
I don't see where the chain would care what link you use to mate it. I'm a bit off on the terminology, though. My understanding is that the masterlink IS the rivet link. It's designed so that it can be put on and squashed.
If you mean it's a masterlink with the clip, and you'd rather use a rivet masterlink? I can't see a problem with that.
SurfJunkie
New Member
All chains come with a master CLIP link.
I paid the extra 3-5 bucks and got the RIVET master link.
Cyclegear is always running a sale on their "Stockton tool company" chain breaker/riveter/presser. Its about 18 dollars if you buy something, and about 60-80 if bought alone not on sale.
You kinda need it to press the pin out on the old chain,compress the outer links of the new, and flare the rivet link.
I paid the extra 3-5 bucks and got the RIVET master link.
Cyclegear is always running a sale on their "Stockton tool company" chain breaker/riveter/presser. Its about 18 dollars if you buy something, and about 60-80 if bought alone not on sale.
You kinda need it to press the pin out on the old chain,compress the outer links of the new, and flare the rivet link.