Should of used loctite
- Thread starter Andezel
- Start date
The manual specifies the correct torque for the engine/frame bolt connection. The engine is part of the frame on a FZ6R and the mechanics that do oil changes aren't qualified to install frame sliders as this is above their technical expertise. Check the manual and torque the bolts as specified.So I installed Shogun frame sliders last week, and went cruising around for a couple hours this weekend. When I pulled into the garage I found my right side puck was MIA. Had them hand tight with the wrench, which was not good enough apparently. Oops.
Always remember... a cross threaded bold is a tigh bolt! :banghead: Joking here... I always been a big fan of torque everything with a torque wrench. It keep thing thighty without stripping everything!They don't put torque values and locktite notes in the instructions for nothing.
One guy told me " I just do it by hand and I'll probably get lucky"..... I never get lucky, so I always torque-wrench by the book.
Well, torque specs have their place, just make extra sure that you have the right spec. I "torqued" the differential cover on my truck a few years ago, but the spec I used was for a steel carrier and the one in the truck was aluminum. needless to say, half the bolts got stripped and I spent a day puttin heli-coils in.
Also, use common sense, if you have a 1/4 inch bolt with a 70ft lb. torque spec, check another reference, misprints happen!
O yeah, and ft.lbs and in.lbs are not the same.
Also, use common sense, if you have a 1/4 inch bolt with a 70ft lb. torque spec, check another reference, misprints happen!
O yeah, and ft.lbs and in.lbs are not the same.
you got that right Brother!Well, torque specs have their place, just make extra sure that you have the right spec. I "torqued" the differential cover on my truck a few years ago, but the spec I used was for a steel carrier and the one in the truck was aluminum. needless to say, half the bolts got stripped and I spent a day puttin heli-coils in.
Also, use common sense, if you have a 1/4 inch bolt with a 70ft lb. torque spec, check another reference, misprints happen!
O yeah, and ft.lbs and in.lbs are not the same.
you got that right Brother!:wav:Well, torque specs have their place, just make extra sure that you have the right spec. I "torqued" the differential cover on my truck a few years ago, but the spec I used was for a steel carrier and the one in the truck was aluminum. needless to say, half the bolts got stripped and I spent a day puttin heli-coils in.
Also, use common sense, if you have a 1/4 inch bolt with a 70ft lb. torque spec, check another reference, misprints happen!
O yeah, and ft.lbs and in.lbs are not the same.
Yeah in retrospect I should have spent more time looking, but my set didn't come with any instructions and the links on fatbikez weren't working. But I was able to get another one for only $18. This time I'll make sure to get it right.They don't put torque values and locktite notes in the instructions for nothing.
One guy told me " I just do it by hand and I'll probably get lucky"..... I never get lucky, so I always torque-wrench by the book.
You also ought to take the engine mount bolts at the other end of the slider brackets and loosen them about 1/2 turn so that they unclamp a little and then retorque them to the proper value which is 40 lbft. You can't test torque on a bolt that is already tight, you have to loosen it a little and re-torque it. It has something to do with friction and breakaway torque and some other things.