Shifting 1-2 and sidestand irritation

[friendlyfriend]

I just bought a used 2009 FZ6R. I mostly like it but two things about it bother me all the time:

Shifting is not smooth from first to second. A lot of the time, it either clunks hard into second or gets stuck in neutral. It's particularly irritating when I'm trying to accelerate fast.

The sidestand is hinged right under the shifter, so my foot hits the hinge all the time when I'm downshifting.

Does anyone have remedies for these things? Does anyone else have these problems?

Thanks!

 

[joloy133]

I occasionally still shift rough, 1st to 2nd, especially if I let the rpms drop (slow) or if I don't rev it to 9000 rpm if racing (too soon). I believe it's more of a timing thing with me. As for the kickstand.... I adapted by turning my toe outward more and not being so tight to the side. The edge of my boot caught the head of the hinge bolt early on.

 

[flyingminno]

The kickstand issue can be resolved with just a change in technique. As for the hard shifting, you may want to see if the clutch needs adjustment at the adjustment nut on the bars. This will tighten or loosen the cable slack. You may also consider doing an oil change if you haven't already, since the oil lubricates the engine as well as the transmission. Fresh oil will allow shifts to engage with less resistance. Hope this helps. :thumbup:

 

[JonKerr]

Can't say I've ever had any real issue with either one you're describing. 1st to 2nd is a little rougher during break-in than it is after the first 600 miles and an oil change. But It never really bothered me. I knew it was going to happen so I didn't worry about it. It'll smooth out once everything is broken in and seated properly. As far as the kick stand is concerned, I never noticed anything like that. I must just keep my feet in a different position than you.

 

[99vengeur]

I haven't had any trouble with the sidestand.

However, I have found that there remains just a little clunk after break-in, but I have a trick for getting a smoother shift from 1st to 2nd (as well as for the other gears, especially 2nd to 1st). When you are getting ready to shift, preload the shifter by applying a bit of pressure the the underside of the shifter. Then, when you go to shift, instead of lifting straight up on the shifter, lift it towards the bike. In other words, don't shift towards the sky, shift diagonally towards the bike. It also works if you use the very outside of the shifter rather than the whole shift lever. There seems to be something about the angle at which the shift lever is raised that affects the smoothness of the transmission.

Someone else try this little trick and let me know if it makes a difference for you. (Prove I'm not crazy!)

 

[bmw675]

i haven't noticed the 1-2 but i agree about the 2-1. i have about 750 miles on mine and it is worst if i try to down shift above 15. ive found that if i give it a little throttle it helps but, ill try this idea too.

However, I have found that there remains just a little clunk after break-in, but I have a trick for getting a smoother shift from 1st to 2nd (as well as for the other gears, especially 2nd to 1st).
When you are getting ready to shift, preload the shifter by applying a bit of pressure the the underside of the shifter. Then, when you go to shift, instead of lifting straight up on the shifter, lift it towards the bike. In other words, don't shift towards the sky, shift diagonally towards the bike. It also works if you use the very outside of the shifter rather than the whole shift lever. There seems to be something about the angle at which the shift lever is raised that affects the smoothness of the transmission.

(Prove I'm not crazy!)

 

[flyingminno]

i haven't noticed the 1-2 but i agree about the 2-1. i have about 750 miles on mine and it is worst if i try to down shift above 15. ive found that if i give it a little throttle it helps but, ill try this idea too.

If you can, you should try to rev match before engaging the gear, it really smooths things out.

 

[JonKerr]

You really shouldn't be shifting from 2-1 and letting the clutch out when you're rolling to a stop anyways. You should drop it into 1st gear when you get to about 15 MPH and just hold the clutch in all the way to the stop. If you're coming to a stop light for instance and get it shifted down into first and the light turns and you don't come to a stop, then you can let clutch out and like was mentioned above, try to rev match so that you don't lock up the rear tire when you let out the clutch.

 

[friendlyfriend]

I just wanted to remark that changing the oil made a HUGE difference. Thanks flyingminno. That really smoothed out the 1-2 shifts. The oil level was high before, so I don't really know whether correcting the oil level or changing the oil gets the credit. It does occasionally grind, but not as badly. Going into 2nd after it unexpectedly lands in neutral just takes more deliberate matching of rpms than I'd like it to take.

 

[gearhead]

I too have noticed the "clunk" between gears and found the fluid change helped alot. But, (with my bike) I also found that shifting too low in the RPM range also contributes to the clunk noise. Spinning the engine higher helps to alleviate most- if not all of the gear change "clunk" sound in my gearbox.
My 2 cents...

 

[Heineken]

Someone else try this little trick and let me know if it makes a difference for you. (Prove I'm not crazy!)

Well, I promise I'll try and report back ...but... I'm not sure if anyone can actually prove that your not crazy :noworries: ... :wav: