After installing the TBR exhaust along with the Power Commander and K&N, I was disappointed with all the "popping" that was happening. While a dyno-tune got rid of most of it (a multitude of "pops" between 5000 and 3500 rpms), there was still a single "pop" at around 2500 rpm during decel, and there was always a single "pop" on acceleration at any rpm. Now, this only happened if I went to 0% throttle - thus, if I was decelerating and was at 0%, I would get a "pop" around 22-2500 rpm. And if I was decelerating and at 0% throttle and then rolled on the throttle, I would get a single "pop" at no matter what rpm I was at. This has to do with the air cut-off system designed by Yamaha and is flashed into the ECU. There are also several other variables, engine temp, etc, and is all part of the emissions control system and comes into play whenever you are at 0% throttle. The "popping" is caused by un-spent fuel igniting in the exhaust after leaving the cylinder.
If you like the "popping" you need to do nothing. Some people like the momentary flames that can come out of the exhaust and I've been told that it doesn't do any harm to the bike or the exhaust.
However, I, for one, was brought up that a street vehicle that "backfires" is doing something wrong. So not only was I dealing with the loudness of the exhaust, but every time I slowed to a light - backfire. Every time I came into traffic and slowed and then accelerated - backfire. And trying to decelerate without going to 0% throttle is difficult at best.
So I did two things. I bought the P-1-X silencer from TBR which is awesome. The second thing I did also worked like a charm. No more "popping" under any circumstance! And it didn't effect the performance or longevity of the bike.
It did, however, effect the emissions control system. So if you can live with this one subtle change, go for it.
1) Raise the fuel tank.
2) Find the air cut-off hose located at the top front right of the air filter case (as you are sitting on the bike).
3) Disconnect the air cut-off hose from the air filter case exposing the male nipple on the air filter case.
4) Take a piece of multi-ply plastic (thick plastic drop cloth will work, and the corner of a plastic baggy may work as well), and press your finger into it to make a dimple.
5) Place the dimple over the male connector of the air filter case and replace the hose. The goal here is to block any air from coming or going to the case through the hose.
6) Replace the clip holding the hose in place.
7) Lower and secure the fuel tank.
That's it. The air cut-off circuit is now blocked and all your "popping" should be gone. I used thick plastic, though as I mentioned above, the corner of a plastic baggie could work - for either you need to cut to size.
Good luck!
If you like the "popping" you need to do nothing. Some people like the momentary flames that can come out of the exhaust and I've been told that it doesn't do any harm to the bike or the exhaust.
However, I, for one, was brought up that a street vehicle that "backfires" is doing something wrong. So not only was I dealing with the loudness of the exhaust, but every time I slowed to a light - backfire. Every time I came into traffic and slowed and then accelerated - backfire. And trying to decelerate without going to 0% throttle is difficult at best.
So I did two things. I bought the P-1-X silencer from TBR which is awesome. The second thing I did also worked like a charm. No more "popping" under any circumstance! And it didn't effect the performance or longevity of the bike.
It did, however, effect the emissions control system. So if you can live with this one subtle change, go for it.
1) Raise the fuel tank.
2) Find the air cut-off hose located at the top front right of the air filter case (as you are sitting on the bike).
3) Disconnect the air cut-off hose from the air filter case exposing the male nipple on the air filter case.
4) Take a piece of multi-ply plastic (thick plastic drop cloth will work, and the corner of a plastic baggy may work as well), and press your finger into it to make a dimple.
5) Place the dimple over the male connector of the air filter case and replace the hose. The goal here is to block any air from coming or going to the case through the hose.
6) Replace the clip holding the hose in place.
7) Lower and secure the fuel tank.
That's it. The air cut-off circuit is now blocked and all your "popping" should be gone. I used thick plastic, though as I mentioned above, the corner of a plastic baggie could work - for either you need to cut to size.
Good luck!
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