New Rider - What to do?


dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
New Rider - Initial Modding - Non Cosmetic

So for the past week I've been reading a ton of new and old threads and I just want to put all my questions and the amazing advice you guys have in one thread.

I've only put about 60 miles on this bad boy and I'm still nervous as hell with turning (just signed up for MSF course and have watched Twist of the Wrist 1 & 2 twice now) I know it's gonna take time and I'm in no hurry to rush these things and want to learn the right way. That aside, I want to throw up some ideas and questions and want to knock out all the minor adjustments before I dive into it all full force and do the MSF course.

Handlebars.. I've read a lot of great feedback on adjusting these. I want to put the handlebars in the front position (the bludge facing forward correct?) Then roll them down a little bit. To undo the under bolts before the top as it's much easier that way. I'm assuming it's going to be good to learn this way since I'm not exactly sold and practiced in the stock position? Good idea?

Front suspension.. I've also read people are getting better handling when they drop the front down an inch or more? I read to make sure both sides exactly match and to do one at a time. Should I go ahead and lower it 1-1.5 inches out of the gate? I have no upgrades to the forks. Also, should I take it somewhere and put a thicker grade of oil in the forks while I'm at it? Should I go ahead and splurge on some new forks?

Also, should I adjust the preload? I'm about 210 with full gear on and I mainly will be driving in the city and back roads/highways about 50/50 of the time. As I get more comfortable I will definitely be riding longer trips and with other people just cruising twisties as that's what I really want to do for the most part.. but for now its mainly street until I'm more comfortable with letting go of the fear the bike is going to fall in every corner if I lean to far. I'm practicing more on my throttle control and knowing my clutch, brakes and throttle inside and out.

Rear suspension - Anything offhand I should adjust? Should I go ahead and order a new spring?

Overall, I just want to do some necessary mods to improve handling, riding, etc and would love to have some input on how to set it all up before I really learn the bike and how to ride properly. I live in Little Rock so roads aren't the best (like every big city I'm sure) but there is amazing places to ride outside of town and I would absolutely love any and all feedback. I would be forever in your debt. I got a 2014 FZ6R with 800 miles on it and according to the manual I've pretty much been very easy on it so far.

Should I change the oil too? Tires seem fine, but I'm wondering if I should change the oil since it says in the manual to change the first oil in it pretty quick compared to normal.

Literally 99% (other than basic knowledge) of what I know about the bike technically (if I'm saying something wrong, just let me know) I have learned from this forum the past week. It's a lot to take in all at once so I'm doing my best to remember everything I've read.
 
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vengeance44

New Member
well hello first of let me start by saying welcome to the world of riding since you bought your motorcycle used and you dont have much experience in riding i recommend forget all the modifications you want to do right now your main purpose should be to learn how to ride all the other stuff comes after. i would definately do an oil change unless you know that the first maintenance was done which is due at 600 miles if not definately do an oil change and change the filter because that is the break in period of the bike you dont know if theres metal shavings all in that oil wearing down everything prematurely. another pointer make sure you lube up your chain at least weekly. the reason i say weekly is because thats what i have done and my chain is on 12k miles and still looking great. also make sure you wear all your gear all the time if you do not have
1. helmet
2. jacket
3. pants
4. shoes
5. gloves
6. a cool pair of shades
your already ****ing up lol all in all enjoy the ride be vigilant because every single prius, suv, soccer mom van, big rig, teenage texter is trying to murder you so stay safe ride safe.
 

SixRFixR

New Member
I agree with Vengeance44. Other than adjusting the preload, leave the bike alone and work on you instead. Preload: 5. Take the MSF course. Study countersteering and throttle control for your cornering concerns.
 

dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
Yea I've got every single piece of gear from my shoei gt air helmet, gloves, jacket, boots, pants.. Everything I could think of. Learning is definitely my number one priority, but if want to get everything else out of the way while I enjoy my 0% for two years. That's the only reason I am asking all of this.

So I should set my preload to 5 because of my weight?

Will do the oil change as soon as my filter comes in the mail this's week. Last night I read a long thread about the chain and ordered some lube and will be picking up some kerosene later tonight.

I'm not sure if he changed it at 600, but what's the harm in doing it again.

Thank you guys for the replies, but what are your thoughts on some of the other stuff I posted? I grabbed a torque wrech last night as I read in a thread if you're doing your own work it's pretty mandatory.

I just want to knock out some of this stuff while I have the opportunity to get it with 0% if it's going to make a noticeable difference in the long run. I would much rather get comfortable with it like that, then have to get a feel for it completely changed in 6 months. Thank you!
 

Chucker

Active Member
If you're eager to make changes, then I would suggest changing the springs and fork oil. Go to the Race Tech website and follow their guide to order the correct springs for your weight and throw 15W oil in the forks. This way, you'll lose the mushy feeling the stock suspension has when you're 210LB. This will make everything better in the turns, and will eliminate the front end dive when you're stopping. You want your rear preload set at 3-4 for optimal performance, but that only works if the springs are matched to your weight. You're going to need 5-6 with the stock springs, which will eat up the travel and make it ride more harsh than it should.

Don't mess with the geometry until you know what you're doing. The bike is engineered to operate with the stock geometry. You don't know enough to know if you should change that. There are a lot of seasoned veterans that haven't lowered their front end.
 

dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
Perfect.. Thank you! That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I'll leave lowering it for now and jump on there and check out what I need to order. I've done about every damn cosmetic thing I wanted for now, paint calipers, fender eliminator, taillight, flush mount blinkers and LEDs blinkers in the front scoops, new mirrors, windshield ans my LEDs come in tomorrow so I was looking for some stuff that might actually make the difference on making the bike feel better when riding. I'll check all that out tonight after I get back riding with some friends. I'll adjust my preload to 4 for now before hand and see what difference it makes.. If I don't like it I can always pull over and add just back to 3. Thank you!
 

Chucker

Active Member
Maybe I wasn't clear. You WANT your preload to be 3-4, but that doesn't apply to the stock spring when you're 210LB. You probably want to go to 5 or 6 with stock springs, which will make the ride a little harsh. Put in a spring with the proper spring rate for your weight, and you will be able to go to 3 or 4 and it will perform much better.
 

dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
Ahh. Yea when you said much much harsher (if it handles better then cool, if not then no way) So I just dropped it one click to 4, not 5 or 6 and have a terrible ride. But I'll move it there later tonight when I get home for sure. I contacted a guy at Race Tech and he directed me to the spring and fork (he said 30w fork oil for my bike though) so I will order those in a couple days. I almost told him make it 15w, but I kinda figured he knew what was best for me after laying out all the details.

Excited to put the preload higher when I get home though.. So it'll be harsher but should handle a little better?

Thanks chuck..
 

Chucker

Active Member
I wouldn't do 30W. I have 15W in mine and it works great at the track. Marthy suggests 10W I believe. I'm 195 lb and Marthy's probably closer to 160. I think 30W is too heavy. Wouldn't go over 20W.

Out of curiosity, what spring rates are they recommending?

EDIT: I just looked at their site and it looks like you have to get 1.0 kg/mm fork springs, which is what I have. I think that's probably a little light for you, but it's the highest rate they have. That may be why he recommended the heavier oil.
 
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dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
Here's his.. and sorry, he said 20w, I don't know why I thought 30w when I replied to you. But 15w is what I'll make sure and get. I told him I was newer and recommended by these forums and that I'm 210 with gear now, but in a month or so I should be back down to 200 with gear on if not a little less.

-----

Shawn,

The forks are the same as the 2011, here's a link to whats available for
your bike. We recommend 20wt oil for this model.

RT - Digital Product Search

.95kg fork springs FRSP S3534095 $129.99
19.6kg shock springSESP 702251100 $124.99
Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator Kit (Damping Rod Type Forks) FEGV S4101
$169.99
G3-LD Shock Gold Valve Kit - Next Generation Low Deflection SMGV S4005
$169.99
Shock Seal Head Assembly (each) SYSH 40125 $49.99
Fork Seals (pair) FKOS 4103 P $35.99
Dust Seals (pair) FKDS 41 P $25.98
OSFO 20 2 qt/liter required $10.99
Shock Oil (less than one quart required) US1 $29.99
Revalve Front Suspension (install Gold Valves-labor only)
- includes rebuild labor LSFORV2 $125.00
Revalve Rear Suspension (install Gold Valves-labor only)
- includes rebuild labor LSSHRV1 $125.00

Mike Crow
Tech Support





----I,haven't check out any of what he put yet, but I'm sure I'm still going to have to ask him because I'm assuming I don't need everything he posted. He really didn't go into any details with me as you can see.
 

Chucker

Active Member
I don't want to sound like I know more than he does, as he should be an expert, but speaking from my experience with Race Tech springs on my FZ6R, I would suggest you go with 1.0 kg/mm fork springs and a 19.6 kg/mm rear spring for regular road riding, or a 21.4 kg/mm spring if you think you're going to go to the track. I need to set my preload at 4 for the road and 5 for the track, with a 19.6 kg/mm spring, and I would like to have it at 3 for the street and 4 for the track. I'm 195 without gear. I think you'll be fine with a 19.6 kg/mm rear spring if you aren't going to track your bike, but I definitely think you need to go with 1.0 kg/mm front springs.

Also, you just need springs and fork oil. The rest he listed is just everything they sell for the FZ6R.

Again, this is just based on my experience with my FZ6R.
 

dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
You pretty much weigh what I do without gear on. I'm 5' 10".

Well, you have more experience with it so I'm gonna go with your recommendations seeing how you are the one that rides on it everyday. Nobody else has really chimed in (little disappointing) so it's honestly the only thing I have to go by :)

There might be track in the far future, but for now it's all street and long rides with fun turns as I don't even know if there is a track around here. Might have to go down to Texas for that. When I get home later I'll check into exactly what you specified and hopefully put the order in tonight or tomorrow. Thanks again Chuck! I appreciate all your input.
 
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