Need help with car audio, Subwoofer recommendations

[Deathdiesel]

Come to a motorcycle forum for car audio talk? Wtf i know i know, but idk much about subs so I need all the help I can get.
Flame on yeah I know. Im looking at a subwoofer for my car, and no I dont want dem killer bass. Just want something to give dubstep and electro some real power or thump. 2000 Ford Mustang Convertible, Stock Mach 460+Kenwood headunit atm.

Im looking at multiple options, one to go under the seat, or an option to put it in the trunk. MY main concern for putting one in the trunk is its a convertible, and im not sure how that will affect the bass in general. I do not have much experience with subs, thats why im here asking. And all my friends around here are like, oh bro get 2 12s in this massive ****ing box; itll sound totally awesome. **** that. I dont need rattling the **** out of my car bass.

Looking to at its highest setting getting some serious slam, but odds are ill have it set to a mild setting for rounding out the sound range.

My current options im looking atm are:

Under the seat
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html?tp=114

In the trunk options, maybe maybe the back seat or in the spot where the convertible top rests when down.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136110WXV2/JL-Audio-CS110-WXv2.html?tp=112

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1L1X10/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1L-1X10.html?tp=112

and amp for the two above
http://www.amazon.com/R1100M-Monoblock-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Control/product-reviews/B004S4XNEO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Thoughts opinions? I dont want some shitty subs that will just blow out or rip around the flex zones in a year.

 

[RoadTrip]

I did a fancy car set up one time; I tried a powered sub, it sucked; so, I went full enclosure in the trunk with a separate Amp, sounded great. I believe it was a single 12inch Punch with dual coil (better than single coil), and a dedicated Alpine Amp. It was really clean and fast.

Since you already have a dialed OEM upgraded set up, you are prolly getting pretty good bass, just not the deep end. So, I think you would have to go the full 12inch single + Amp route to improve your stock sound. You can't simply borrow power from your existing unit, that would weaken the power to the speakers. Also, the trunk is the best location, it acts like a secondary enclosure, low end bass will permeate right through it and it will sound great, and be more secure in that location.

If your head unit won't support the controls for new sub, then a separate control knob should be available, paying someone to install really is the way to go, they will make sure the power from the battery has a separate line run with protection implemented. Unfortunately, you are looking at around $1000 fully installed to make this happen, but it should blow you away when complete. The other option is just to see if Ford has an OEM powered sub option and that would prolly be $500 or so, it will improve your sound, but won't blow you away, but at least you would still have a trunk (the custom set up will pretty much make your trunk useless.

 

[MistahT]

Used to work and install at Circuit City. Subs are cheap and easy to find. Amps are harder to find. Select a good amp first, preferably "mono" or "class D" if that's still a thing, I've been out of the audio game for a long time. Easier to match subs to your amp's numbers, not as easy the other way around.

If I only had a dollar for every time a customer came in and said "What!? I need a $600 amp for this $100 pair of subs I just bought?"

 

[Deathdiesel]

so would the amp i listed wouldnt work? I was thinking a 10 over 12 simply because of space saving. How does that add up to 1000$ though? Even a sundown audio 12" sub + enclosure is 240$ or so. Then amp? I dont mind the amp being cheap as long as it works properly.

 

[RoadTrip]

Sub = $200
Enclosure = $200
Amp = $400
Install = $200

I am sure you can get it cheaper than a grand, but yeah ran my Alpine in a closed trunk for several years in Texas heat and still never had a problem, whereas I have heard other peeps having overheating issues with cheaper amps. Sounds like you should hit up an audio forum to get better info, but in general you get what you pay for.

Good bass is like half the cost of a good system, just depends on how picky you are about sound. Bass is a lot more than just boom boom, it has speed, extension, and depth. The difference between my inital attempt at a powered sub and the full set up was huge, the powered sub was not even close.

Oh, yeah, and a 10in sub can be tight and fast and can hit pretty hard, but doesn't have the depth and extension of a 12in.

 

[Deleted member 9794]

Make sure that the Ohms "Ω" of the subwoofers match (or can be re-wired to match) the amplifier. 2Ω impedance is gonna be the most flexible if I remember correctly.

 

[Deathdiesel]

Interesting. Would the boss one I linked be too sketchy? Reviews seem to do very well for the price. And honestly at that price you could go through 4 of them for the price of a normal amp.

Even here, sundown audio which has been reviewed as an awesome sub company overall.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D2-Sundown-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZW80TS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top]Amazon.com: SA-12 D2 - Sundown Audio 12" 600W Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer: Car Electronics[/ame] -200$

Ported Box
Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Ported single 12" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB12-200V) at Crutchfield.com -70$ sealed is cheaper by 10$

Amp
same as above, and if need be there are multiple major name brand amps for 200$ or so at about 500-700 amps @ 2ohms. Mono Amplifiers at Crutchfield.com

 

[RoadTrip]

I may have over estimated prices a bit, yeah looks like you can get a pretty good set up for well less than $1000 - install still gonna cost ya, though

 

[dart1963]

few years back, I was really impressed with the audioban line.... was in Best buy testing them all out... they seemed to have the cleanest heaviest bump of all the brands.... years before that, Cerwin Vega was tops, they are still around... as to the amps, I also found, don't believe the specs... amps can be fudged, have heard 20w amps blow away 200w amps, crazy.

Every car is different too, you don't want something that is going to sound good in a trunk of an olds in a little civic....

Been a long time since I played around with this stuff and haven't kept up, four kids and I don't really need lots of bump... your best bet is to go a a few audio shops and get their advice, of course they will try to sell you something, but they will know what's best bang for the buck. I was really good friends with a few shops when I was into it, helped out on weekends a few times with installs... they push what they have in stock, what they know, but they really do know which setups will work best in which applications

 

[Scott_Thomas]

Sub = $200
Enclosure = $200
Amp = $400
Install = $200

I am sure you can get it cheaper than a grand, but yeah ran my Alpine in a closed trunk for several years in Texas heat and still never had a problem, whereas I have heard other peeps having overheating issues with cheaper amps. Sounds like you should hit up an audio forum to get better info, but in general you get what you pay for.

Good bass is like half the cost of a good system, just depends on how picky you are about sound. Bass is a lot more than just boom boom, it has speed, extension, and depth. The difference between my inital attempt at a powered sub and the full set up was huge, the powered sub was not even close.

Oh, yeah, and a 10in sub can be tight and fast and can hit pretty hard, but doesn't have the depth and extension of a 12in.

True, but I had a dual bandpass box with 10's in my old celica back around 2001 and that setup puts my 12s to shame even with a better amp. Problem is my truck doesn't have space for that box so I have custom enclosures under the rear seats of my 05 ram. The box I had was huge and took my entire trunk but man that thing bumped.

Sent from the one and only Samsung Galaxy S4.

 

[Deleted member 9794]

This is what I have:
WoofersEtc.com - ZX7180 - Volfenhag 2 Ch. 1600 Watt Amplifier

and these (but they don't make them anymore):
Coustic Europe - BP12x2A


...both 4ohms, box takes 800W RMS, amp pushes 880W RMS when output channels are bridged.

At the time, the subwoofers were $200 and the amp was $180. If you don't want as much thump I'd still recommend that amp, it takes up a bunch of space but it gets the job done. You can always turn down the gain so you don't overload whatever subs you go with, for $130 it's a good deal.

So total:

$130 - amp
$200 - subs
$100~$150 - install plus wiring kit and low pass filter (if you know somebody that can install for you OR if you're electrically/mechanically inclined, use how-to vids from YouTube....it's actually not too hard)

$430~$480 total (if you want subs that big)

 

[nismos14]

Stay away from the boss amp. There are many many options out there. I would suggest you try to find a few local shops to hear some setups and see what they can do for you.

 

[Deathdiesel]

I may have to do so. Why stay away from the boss amp? Reviews seem to be pretty good really.

 

[BoneJj]

kicker subs....

that's what I recommend.

 

[Little Miss Dangerous]

+1 on the kicker sub. Best value for money in my opinion, I had a12 inch in a small hatchback and that thing was awesome.. amazing bass but clear too, loved it!

 

[Scott_Thomas]

I have 2 sony xplod 12 inch subs in custom sealed enclosures under my rear seats (was a storage compartment) and a sony xplod class d mono amp 1000w. Clarion VZ401 DVD head unit. System sounds great, but I miss my old box which had more bump in my Z28. I miss my 600w JBL mono amp that I had powering them though. That amp was a beast!

 

[EsrTek]

I haven't seen anyone say it, but sub magnet size is more important to know.. then you can figure out what AMP you need.
A 12" sub w a 40oz magnet is way different than a 12" w 200oz mag, they produce different bass tones and need different power.

For under seat(s) I would go w/ 8" or 10's...a set under seat and one mounted into back of the seat (facing windshield). This will give you a nice punchy bass, you can feel.
The deeper bass of 12"s in a trunk unless you DynoMat the trunk will just cause crap like your plates to vibrate and sound like crap from outside. Might try a isoberic 10" in the trunk would be about right for size of a mustang, plus when top down it will change trunk dynamics of a open air box.

As for brands.. I was sponsored to do competitions by Cadence back in the 90's.

 

[Scott_Thomas]

I haven't seen anyone say it, but sub magnet size is more important to know.. then you can figure out what AMP you need.
A 12" sub w a 40oz magnet is way different than a 12" w 200oz mag, they produce different bass tones and need different power.

For under seat(s) I would go w/ 8" or 10's...a set under seat and one mounted into back of the seat (facing windshield). This will give you a nice punchy bass, you can feel.
The deeper bass of 12"s in a trunk unless you DynoMat the trunk will just cause crap like your plates to vibrate and sound like crap from outside. Might try a isoberic 10" in the trunk would be about right for size of a mustang, plus when top down it will change trunk dynamics of a open air box.

As for brands.. I was sponsored to do competitions by Cadence back in the 90's.

True about magnet size, but I cannot afford a sub with a 200oz magnet. Way out of my price range. I decided based on what the lowest ohm the speakers were stable at and max power, same with my amp. I personally wouldn't have went with 12's under the rear seats, but I already had the speakers. I preferred my 10 inch Kenwoods in a dual bandpass box to any 12 inch set up I've heard. Box is just too big for most vehicles.

 

[nismos14]

Magnet size is by no means an indication of how the sub will sound. There are a lot of parameters that effect that. There are subs that neo magnets that weigh nothing, but will outperform heavy subs with ease.

Your best bet is to go out, go listen to various setups, and find what you like.

If you want a good budget sub that will accomplish giving you some extra kick I have a very nice polk audio sub that I used for 1 month in a home theater box, that would work great, all you'd need is a box and amp. I would let the sub go very cheap.

 

[Fizzi6ergal]

I've got 2 600 watt 12" JL Audio W3's in the trunk of my car(damn box takes up 3/4 of my trunk). Then my fiance has a 12" Pioneer in his Jeep. My JL's are really loud when I have them turned up to the point of blowing fuses. So I think the JL's would be a bit too much for what you're wanting to do. If you wanna piss your neighbors off(like I like to do), then I would recommend JL's.