How to Sync Throttle Bodies on the FZ6R


bigddy263

Member
Very nice write up and thank you so much. I think everyone gets a better sense of their bike when the do the work themselves, and you took some of the fear of the unknown away. Bravo.
 

bigddy263

Member
well my motion pro sync tool came today.... you don't next the extra 6mm adapters are bike have solid plugs you just pull out. i had to return mine today.

you will need to get some 5/32 plastic 2 male ends air vent tubes. could not find straight one in that size...... had to buy ones with a 3 t ones and use a cap on the center one.

the motion pro tool you need to sync the tool first using the number one cylinder ....... and then hook up the 4 lines.
Thanks for the size info on the adapters. I think I have all the info I need now.
 

ChUcK

New Member
I agree, it's a good how-to. I believe the extra fan is unnecessary, though. Our bikes already bring their own fans to the party. Overheating won't occur unless you have coolant system problems, and that's a whole new can o' spaghettios.
 

bigddy263

Member
idle speed

Alright one last question. Is it necessary to readjust the idle speed after the Sync? Seems like if the sync was way off, the idle speed might increase when the sync is corrected. Sorry for asking before I do the task, but I am waiting for my next paycheck to get my Manometer. It also seems like if the #1 cyl vacuum is high, it might be an idle speed problem. For example, adjust 2, 3, and 4 to match #1 then bring idle speedup or down to correct for high vacuum.
 

ChUcK

New Member
Alright one last question. Is it necessary to readjust the idle speed after the Sync?
Yes. The Service Manual calls out for one last idle check/adjustment after the throttle bodies are synced.
 
F

FZ6R_Blue

Just a quick note on this that helped me out HUGE. This item is spendy but you should never have to buy another one and you can make some good money if people need it done. shops will charge a bunch for this.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-Vacuummate-Throttle-Carburetor-Synchronizer/dp/B0022WX3CG]Amazon.com: Tecmate Vacuummate WS Throttle Body and Carburetor Synchronizer TS-81: Automotive[/ame]
 

Nastybutler

Cynical Member
Elite Member
F

FZ6R_Blue

Where can you get those kits for cheap then? and I have used it probably 15 times in the past 6mths made about $650
 

Nastybutler

Cynical Member
Elite Member
F

FZ6R_Blue

The digital kit is so much better. the kit you posted is not even close to accuracy of the one i posted. to each his own but i would rather have it perfect and spend more and like i said there is money to be made with the digital.

I'm not saying your wrong or anything but i have been using and borrowing the one at school and its made me some $$ i swear by it now
 
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linkgt

Member
Alright one last question. Is it necessary to readjust the idle speed after the Sync? Seems like if the sync was way off, the idle speed might increase when the sync is corrected. Sorry for asking before I do the task, but I am waiting for my next paycheck to get my Manometer. It also seems like if the #1 cyl vacuum is high, it might be an idle speed problem. For example, adjust 2, 3, and 4 to match #1 then bring idle speedup or down to correct for high vacuum.
1st vac for me was 26 instead of 24... initially I had lowered it to 24, but by mistake made it higher while adjusting. I couldn't get it back to 24 yesterday because of the engine being hot and all, plus I don't have a fan to blow on the radiator. Once the bike heats up, it goes upwards 26 hg. I just made the best of what I could about the situation and made them all at least the same level now. However, the lowest I could get the bike to idle is about 1,700 rpm... I'll prob readjust it when I buy my exhaust soon and buy a fan...

Great writeup though. thanks!

Edit: Was able to synch all of them to 26, the bike just didnt want to go down to 24. I would lower one, the other would go up etc etc...Also fixed idle speed.
 
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Dustin600

New Member
This is the easiest bike I have ever performed the throttle body sync on. It was made easier by this thread. Thank you.
 

int15

New Member
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but when screwing the bolts back on, do they need to be tightened to a specific torque or simply "screwed firmly in place"?

Thanks,
-Int15
 

linkgt

Member
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but when screwing the bolts back on, do they need to be tightened to a specific torque or simply "screwed firmly in place"?

Thanks,
-Int15
Which bolts are you referring to sir?
 

dart1963

Super Moderator
Elite Member

will415

New Member
Central California

Anyone out here in the central california area who can help me do mine. When i did my first service at 600 i was told that i needed to get one done at that milage but well im at 1700 miles now and still have not gotten one due to the cost its about 100 something to do it at my dealer and better figure if someone lives by near to me i can go out there and have u sync mine. Im willing to pay just want to make sure i get this done so that my bikes has no issues down the road.
 

linkgt

Member
Nice catch, I was so busy adjusting and then grabbing the camcorder that I didn't even catch that (and I was there!)....

My bike is new again.... I was starting to get some weird takeoffs, it was like it was like the engine was bogging down if I took off with the rpms below 3k and when taking turns, it was really bad trying to maintain speed, and accelerate off the apex.....
This is the exact same issue i'm still having, even though I synced the throttle bodies this past weekend. I have also changed the spark plugs, clean my K&N filter, and this week i will change the oil.

On the bright side of things, my idle is now a lot smoother. I have also been running "premium" gas in hopes that it may solve the issue

When i first start the bike, the rpms fluctuate and it seems as if the bike is about to turn off. Sometimes it does, others it does not. It has not done so since the spark plug change last week, but today it was VERY close to shutting off. The problem is very apparent when on the lower rpms...The bike starts to "bog" and its pretty scary, especially through turns. My throttle feels loose too, but maybe I need to tighten that a bit more. I also have a TBR exhaust and a power commander.

Anyone have any ideas what might be causing my bike to behave the way I have described above? My dad is guessing the fuel filter. I checked that out and it seems like a PITA to change that. I really do not want to take to this a dealer... thanks :(
 
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