How much can you lower front end......

[JBAX]

Before you need to change the rear suspension or lower or make mods to the rear. I read an article in SuperStreetBike "FZ6R Better than you Think" where they look to have lowered a 2011 as much as possible by brining the forks up thru the Triple Tree to the maximum (just before they hit the bar.) It looks like like 4-5cm. But they did nothing to the rear shock. That obviously makes it much more a SS set up and puts more weight on the front, and increases the riders lean angle.

I was going to lower mine a small amount (like 5 millimeters) to see if I notice any difference. Has anyone dropped the front by bringing the forks up thru the triple tree a lot, and not changed rear set up and had it be a "good" change.

I know this changes the bikes handling and geometry, but that IS the idea.

Appreciate anyone's thoughts and feedback on this.

 

[JSP]

I personally would not go more than 1/2". Some have done 2" and say its fine, but that is quite a lot. 5mm-10mm would be a good start. Start at 5mm increments.

 

[Marthy]

Spring rate, spring rate and once again spring rate. This is the first thing to sort out before you do anything.

The 6R doesn't have enough ponies to break the front end loose anyway so dropping tye front end help but doesn't fix the poor handling. Go on racetech website and pull up the correct spring for your weight. Then if you have some spare $ upgrade the fork valving. Then you will have a proper set up bike.

 

[JBAX]

Thanks!

Marthy....

I am 152-158lbs.

FORK SPRINGS
(I looked up correct (road riding, not racing) springs on Race Tech Calculator and it recommended .9 for riding/.95 for racing. Stock Springs are .9 I believe. So no need to change a thing for my weight.

REAR SHOCK
Just going to Adjust Preload/Sag to my weight. (set to 3 right now, I get about 1/5 inches sag). I could dial up to 4.

Stock Spring is 9.4kg (Race Tech calculator recommends 19kg road riding and 19.38 racing) Am I mistaken in thinking I can just dial up the preload on the stock spring and achieve the same thing??

 

[Chucker]

Your springs might be OK for spring rate, but they're progressive. For sport riding, straight rate is better. You will also really see a difference by beefing up your oil. I suggest 15W.

For your shock spring, cranking up preload takes up all of your travel, which creates a harsh ride that doesn't respond well. You should have your preload set in the middle of the range, hence the need for stiffer springs.

I say go for a whole new set of Race Tech springs with heavier oil. It'll be a completely different bike.

 

[JBAX]

I learn new things here DAILY!!!

Thanks All.

 

[Marthy]

Chuck is right. You need a perfect balance of free sag and rider sag.

By example if you have 35mm rear rider sag...

0mm free sag=spring too soft
15mm free sag=spring too stiff

Aim for 5-10mm free sag.

Front 40mm rider sag and rear 35mm is a good start. The front spring can be shim with washers to get the proper nunbers even if they are not adjustable. 15W is about right, im using 20W but its a bit harsh on big bumps. Don't be afraid to experiment with fork oil level, very powerful tuning tool. Add a bit at the time until you can hit the brake and the fork doesn't bottom out.

Also the air gap in the fork is less with more oil, that mean as the front dive the sping rate rise. Plenty of good info on Google with probably better wording than me.

I learn a lot with the FZ09... that thing is on rail now.