getting ready to change chain and sprockets


E

elishatarvin

New Member
in the next few days i will be changing my chain and sprockets. i was just wondering what hidden pitfalls i need to look out for. the only question i can be specific about right now is how to remove the old chain without having to remove all the other parts that are in front of it. in other words what is the best way to cut the chain? if there is any advice please let me hear it. thanx in advance
 
As Dart says, since the 6R has an endless chain, you have to break the chain, which means your going to need a chain breaker. I know a lot of the folks on this site love Harbor Freight, for about $10 you can buy a breaker. This guy shows you how it is used. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd83Y_hjbEU&feature=related]YouTube - Chain installation replacement rivet tool cheap harbor freight 530 motorcycle[/ame] To bad he doesn't actually break the chain in this video, he just shows you how it is used after he does the job. He doesn't mention that the link you intend to break has to have the pin that is spread to act as a rivet, needs to be ground down first so that you can press the link out. So, your going to need a Dremel tool, or die grinder as well.
 
are you changing the front sprocket too? if so, make sure you have a 30mm socket and a piece of wood to wedge inbetween the rear tire(if no friend is available to sit on bike and hold brake)
 
If you are not replacing the front sprocket a quick trick to prevent having to take the front sprocket off, is to break the link on the old chain and connect it to the new one. Make sure the bike is in neutral and pull the old and new chain through the sprocket and guard.
 
ok for some reason i just now noticed that the max engine size for the chain i got is 250cc. DOH!! guess i will be returning it. dont know how i read over that when i ordered it. since im back to the beginning, what is a good aftermarket black endless chain? and is THIS a wise purchase (i know i will still need to grind the rivet head)
 
Last edited:
elishatarvin said:
ok for some reason i just now noticed that the max engine size for the chain i got is 250cc. DOH!! guess i will be returning it. dont know how i read over that when i ordered it. since im back to the beginning, what is a good aftermarket black endless chain? and is THIS a wise purchase (i know i will still need to grind the rivet head)
Click to expand...

get the $10 dollar one dude... not a $100 one... it's just a basic push vice that "breaks" the very small "lip" on a link, it doesn't take much to break it.
 
Just a little heads up, please do a How-To, possibly take some pictures as a reminder of how the bike was and do a write up if you can.

I'm sure many members would love to do this and have no idea or for future users.

-Thanks
 
That chain breaker looks like a nice tool. It isn't any better at breaking a chain, but it makes a nice addition to a tool chest. I actually made a chain breaker 30 years ago when I had a machine shop at my disposal, that one was for a 630 chain, I guess I'll have to buy one this time, since the 630 breaker won't work for the 6R chain. The Harbor Freight breaker would work as well as the expensive one I would think. If your one of those guys who buys Snap On tools, go for the expensive one.
 
i just wanna say thanks again for all the replies. this is my first bike and my first mechanic experience. i know im alittle crazy for tryin this myself but i love learning new things and i am a very fast, hands on learner. but i do ask alot of "stupid" questions.

and seeing as how the breaker from harbor is only $10 do i really need to grind the rivet seeing as how a dremel tool is the price of quite a few $10 chain breakers? the chain breaker will still break the rivet?

and as far as putting the new chain together, does the harbor freight chain breaker convert to a presser? and i would still need a riveter no?

i will definitely take some pics and do a write up, but it will be awhile until i get the chain returned and the new chain decided on and delivered. and all the ins and outs figured out.

update: harbor freight breaker is on backorder :(
 
Last edited:
and as far as putting the new chain together, does the harbor freight chain breaker convert to a presser?
Click to expand...
According to the video it does. I haven't had a chain driven bike in a long time, so I'm going to have to do some more research about how these chain links are peened over or pressed back on. In the days when I did have a chain to worry about I used a master link. I guess they are not preferred these days. FWIW, I never had a problem with a master link when it was installed right.
 
well if a chain doesnt have a master link how do u put it together. from my understanding as long as it is not a clip master link its strong enough?
 
When I wrote about the master link, I was talking about the type that has a clip. It should be just as strong as a standard link that has to be peened or spread to act as a rivet. The problem with the clip type links mainly came from them being installed improperly. The clip can be put on 2 ways, only 1 way is right, and they have to fit inside groves in the link pins. If not installed properly the clip can come off causing the link to separate. I knew how to install them properly, that is probably why I didn't have any issues with them. I hope this helps.
 
owldaddy said:
When I wrote about the master link, I was talking about the type that has a clip. It should be just as strong as a standard link that has to be peened or spread to act as a rivet. The problem with the clip type links mainly came from them being installed improperly. The clip can be put on 2 ways, only 1 way is right, and they have to fit inside groves in the link pins. If not installed properly the clip can come off causing the link to separate. I knew how to install them properly, that is probably why I didn't have any issues with them. I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Also the clip needs to go in the direction the chain travels. The spread ends of the clip would be towards the rear wheel if the master link is above the swingarm so the rounded part is forward and leads.
 
thats great info owl and spunky. i think i might wait on a chain because the stock chain is semi black and aftermarket chains are expensive. and seeing as how i only have 800 miles on my chain, i think i will wait. but please keep the info coming. not just for me but for someone else who may need this thread in the future. now my last question is, my front and rear sprocket arrived today and i know it is a good idea to change sprockets and chain at the same time, but seeing as how my chain only has 800 miles on it, can i get away with just changing sprockets (they are 520 sprockets, at least i didnt goof that :D )? thanx again for fillin my noggin
 
You would be right about changing the sprockets and chain at the same time. However that applies to chains that have been stretched and worn. I don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to keep the chain you have unless you didn't lube it and rode it through a creek. With only 800 miles, the chain should be in good shape. As I understand it, these newer chains should go 20k miles with the proper maintenance.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Nrstar8088
Do i need new chain?
Replies
7
Views
609
Half-Click Up
Half-Click Up
Ravenfizzer
118 2 link too small?? Needs 120 for stock swing arm?..
Replies
0
Views
443
Ravenfizzer
Ravenfizzer
Nrstar8088
Riding all winter long?
Replies
4
Views
541
paulbronx
P
X
FZ6R Vortex Chain Kit?
Replies
1
Views
435
Just_Jim
Just_Jim
F
Question Timing Rotor Specifications
Replies
1
Views
336
Rumpig
R

Back
Top