AFR observations on an O2 sensor equipped bike

[Rumpig]

I've bought a Doebeck EJK chip for the FZ6R and after fitting it couldn't really notice any difference. I was expecting it to not have much effect down low thinking that the O2 sensor would cancel it out but thought I might gain some power at Wide Open Throttle. My local Yamaha/Harley dealer wanted $500 for a dyno tune (not that they can tune a yammy) but I thought "stuff that", and bought an AFR meter instead for $220 to see what was going on.

After fitting I've been checking the AFR's while stock, stock and changing the CO settings, stock with the O2 sensor removed and then with the O2 sensor removed and the EJK plugged in. This is what I found.

Stock.
With the bike warmed up it idles at an AFR around 12.6. At cruising speed it holds around 13.5 until engine temp hits 70c, then changes to 14.7. Increasing the revs but staying below 50% throttle opening, it holds around 14.7 till you hit 7500rpm, were it drops down to around 13.6 and then keeps dropping till it gets to 12.4 near redline. If you crack the throttle past 50% at any revs AFR's start coming down immediately.

Stock plus CO changes.
Changing CO down to -50 leans the bike out at idle and going to +50 richens the idle up, but the changes have no effect to cruising or W.O.T runs.

Stock and no O2 sensor.
Removing the factory O2 sensor the bike idles with the same AFR, but at cruising speed the AFR's drop to 10.8 which is mega rich, not good for economy or the engine. Once you go past 50% throttle or 7500rpm the AFR's come back to normal at 13.6 down to 12.4 flat out.

No O2 sensor plus the EJK.
The bike still runs at 10.8 at cruising speed, but you can now add fuel above the 7500 rpm/ 50% throttle mark.

So, what are my options?
Running without the O2 sensor but with the EJK will kill the engine pretty quick I think, so not that.

Get a U.S ecu ( no O2 sensor is standard) and not run the factory sensor. Ones ordered. Should be doable according to these links, apparently only two wires need to be swapped around on the ecu plug.Just a moment... ECU Fault?

Get my ecu remapped. No on advertises it for our bike, but this guy has done It, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dynTZDtuONg and ecuwest could probably do it.

You can get O2 controllers but they only lower the AFR's by a set amount, all the way thru the rev range, so only good for a minor gain. 02 Controller - Page 2

I've ordered a U.S ecu and i'll try running that without the factory O2 sensor installed and the EJK hooked up. I've been researching ecu remapping and the biggest problem seems to be that with the newest style processor, when you connect to read them the first thing it does is erase the programming, so you need the bin file before you can even start.

 

[Rumpig]

If someone with a U.S 2012/13 bike could take some pics of the ecu wiring loom, that would help me out as the pdf I have lists different wiring colors to what I have. Pics showing both sides of the ecu while plugged in would be good.

 

[Marthy]

We don't have an O2 sensor here but from what I learn on the FZ09, here's how Yamaha work. Maybe you can double check this since you are all setup.

O2 sensor keep AFR rock solid at 14.7:1 in the cruising mode. That mean give n take under 15-20% throttle or under around 85-90 PSi (if you log the map sensor) If you disconnect the O2 sensor the ECU goes in safe mode. On the FZ09 if I give some throttle the AFR goes to 15:1 then it takes about 15 second for the ECU to go in safe mode and the AFR end up around 13.5 AFR. So if you tune your AFR to be 13.8... the safe mode end up way too rich in the low 11's.

The EJK version for the 6R is the 3.0 if I can remember, so you can't lean out AFR... only add fuel. My takes will be to leave the O2 sensor plug in. Start with the EJK suggested tune and if you can velcro your EJK controller and O2 sensor gauge side by side, try to shift in the Y and the same time the ECU get out of close loop when accelerating in medium load (Yellow) Adjust the Y shift point (BY) +/- until you're happy with it.

You can adjust the G to make the throttle smoother with the O2 sensor plug in. Try not to go under 13.0:1. I'm not sure of the R shift point but it should be fine. Just tuned the AFR in the R. The EJK is a nice controller for the $. Might required some compromise but it's very user friendly.

kevxtx O2 controller is from your part of the world. Contact him about the O2 controller he as. His controller offset the O2 sensor signal and the AFR end up to be in the 13.6ish instead.

SideNote: The dash CO setting only control 0-2% throttle from what I've been told.

 

[Final Impact]

Rumpig, one thing I saw in reference to ECU pin out on the "FZ6" is that some EU models had the coil and injector wires swapped vs US versions. No idea if this holds true on your "R" model.

As for AFR; your ECU is doing a lot more with the AFR than the FZ6 does. I'm running a Bazzaz Z-FI controller and Z-AFM Data logger. I have only one bung for sniffer so I never ran both the OEM Narrow Band O2 Sensor and the Bazzaz Wideband Sensor.

Do you have two bungs and are they in the collector before a CAT (Yours have a CAT?)?

This is likely completely irrelevant but I am shocked regarding the number of tuners that build maps for the S2 version of the FZ6 as they have Catalytic converters just after the header downpipes and the O2 sensor and/or Tail pipe sniffer which drastically impacts readings based on catalyst efficiency. That said, the map I have for my S2 is nothing like the maps made for other S2's. Its basically 13.0:1 AFR across the board except at 5% & 10% TPS in a select range.

The S1 version of our bikes has no catalyst in the header so I fitted an S1 header to it and added an O2 bung for the Z-AFM logger.

"US FZ6"

View attachment 33826


Look at post #19 here: cdi dead in yamaha fz6 fazer S2 (europe model)



Thanks for sharing the info above. A very Good Read!!

 

[Rumpig]

Marthy,
On the Ozzie bike it appears that the AFR map determines the fuelling completely, maxing out the settings on the EJK doesn't change the AFR's anywhere (idle, cruising, W.O.T) while running the factory O2 sensor. Your correct, I've got the v3 EJK and can only add fuel, but I think even if I could subtract fuel at cruising speed, i'd probably get flat spots elsewhere. I've bought a 2012 U.S ecu and once I get it fitted i'll remove the factory o2 sensor ( I've got a bypass plug so it doesn't throw codes) and then I should be right to go with the EJK.

Final Impact, thanks for the pin outs.
Yeah the ecu does control AFRs quite severly, I think if you remapped the fuel maps but didn't change the AFR map you'd get no difference at all. I've chopped of the cat and fitted Marthy's Danmoto shorty and welded in another bung so I can run the aftermarket and factory sensors. I was surprised the factory tune goes down to 12.4, didn't think they would run it that rich.

I'll post more as bits arrive and I work out the best way to tune it, got a trigger wheel for the timing coming and i'm looking for some FZ6 cams to.

 

[Rumpig]

Success! I fitted the U.S ecu today and it runs fine, no fault codes or immobilizer problems. I won't do a write up as that would be useful info for bike thieves, but all the info I needed was found via google. I'll ride it as is for a while to see the differences in AFR's then put the Dobeck back on and see what sort of tune I can do. After a short ride the only real difference seems to be cruising speed AFR's are around 13.4 instead of 14.7, seems similar at idle and getting up it.

So why have I done this? Fitting a fuel controller to an aussie or euro bike with an O2 sensor doesn't make any difference as the AFR map over rides any fuel you add. You can unplug the factory O2 sensor and fit a bypass so you don't get a fault code, but then the bike runs at a 10.8 AFR which is rich as buggery and will carbon up the engine, wash oil off the cylinder walls and probably dilute the engine oil, not good for engine life. U.S bikes don't run an O2 sensor which means you can run a fuel controller with getting overly rich AFR's.

 

[Rumpig]

Now that i've got the fuel controller working plus the timing mod, the bike just pulls so much better from down low. I can go around a corner in 3rd and it will pull away from 3000rpm because it has a much broader torque curve now. AFR's at cruise are acceptable, below 105 kmh it sits around 13.2 and above it sits around 13.8 so shouldn't affect economy much if at all.

 

[Rumpig]

First full tank of fuel with the U.S ecu and the EJK fuel controller on and economy is the same, so i'm happy with that and the bike is much more responsive and pulls all the way to redline. win-win.

 

[Rumpig]

Found out today that with the U.S ecu there's no more changing the CO settings. Sure i've read somewhere there is a wire to add / delete to do it though.

 

[Rumpig]

After a quick search I don't think it's possible. My bike was already wired for it so if it's not working now it must be in the ecu programming, only changes idle settings so not important anyway.

 

[Final Impact]

Q? Does the US FSM state anything about adjusting the CO values (C1/C2)?

Does your piggyback device allow fuel changes down to idle speed 0.0% TPS settings?

 

[Rumpig]

It mentions them but doesn't say how to change them, or what exactly they do. Not sure if the EJK affects idle, i'll give it a go.

 

[ST3RL0]

I had a look at my CO values today, c1 was 6 and c2 was 5. Brought c2 up to 6 but not a noticeable difference, might have to play around with them when I get my new clutch in

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[Rumpig]

I did -50 and +50 with the afr gauge on and it only had an affect on idle.

 

[ST3RL0]

Any ideas what they should be set at?

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[Rumpig]

Can't remember what my original settings were but I think they were similar to yours.

 

[Rumpig]

Just a bit more on AFR's. I've fitted this Danmoto slip on https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1468&zenid=f0tgthh255aqjauernh6p063s7 with the valves in it to reduce noise, it has a butterfly valve at each end so is quite restrictive and does a good job of reducing noise.

Riding at 100kmh with the valves closed AFR's are 14.1 and once opened change to 14.4 so 0.3 leaner. That's probably the sort of change you would get changing from the factory muffler to a slip on, so not enough to justify a fuel controller just for an exhaust change I reckon.

This is a bike without the factory O2 sensor.