There is a foot of snow on the ground and -15 C outside, even the crickets won't chirp. The bike is long put away under cover in the garage. Man, riding season seems so long ago. I drop in here once in a while just to see what is up, and think about the next riding season. You southern...
I run regular in mine and it runs fine. I tried medium grade over the summer for 3-4 tank fulls and did not notice any difference other than cost of fill ups.
I have had good results with a lot of oils over the last 30 years of riding. Can't honestly say any of them were bad and others were good. I have noticed that some oils make the tranny shift smoother than others, but no miraculous hp gains from the expensive stuff and no engine failures from...
The exhaust won't withstand the full weight of the bike, so I wouldn't use a jack. There are two brackets on the bottom of the frame from the center stand on the UK model that you might be able to use if you rig up some 2x4 to form a cradle, but I don't know if I would trust that to be stable...
Amsoil full synthetic has worked great in my last few sportbikes. I notice smoother shifting on each bike after switching to full synthetic oil. I am still running Yamalube in my FZ6R (only 3400 klms), but will change to Amsoil at the end of the season.
I agree, I'm pretty impressed with the OEM RoadSmart tires too. I've pushed them pretty hard and they have not given me any surprises. The other week I did a tight and twisty road in light rain and again was impressed. I'm not sure if I would trust them on the track once they got over heated...
You need to get that chain lube off of the tire. Try a stronger detergent like VIM, but don't get it on your rims as it might scratch them. Scrub the tire with a wash brush and rinse well with water.
Part 3
Step 4, rear wheel alignment. Rear wheel alignment is important to get the most life out of your rear tire, your chain and sprockets. At the worst, poor alignment will cause your bike to steer to one side causing you to constantly correct for this drift at the handle bars. At the...
Part 2
Step 3, Adjusting the chain. With the 22mm socket and power bar, loosen the axel nut. Careful not to knock the bike off of the side stand by pulling forward on the power bar. Pull upwards instead. Do not remove the nut.
• Tip # 1, always pull on a wrench never push. Pushing...
Part 1
I thought the group might find a How To on chain adjustment helpful since there are a few new riders in this forum. Doing your own basic maintenance is a good idea as it helps you learn about your bike, adds to the riding experience and helps you ensure your bike is adjusted for...
I have laid out the idle adjustment in the How to sync throttle bodies thread:
http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6r-how-tos/17067-how-sync-throttle-bodies-fz6r.html
The mercury filled Motion Pro gauge that I use is no longer produced(some ebay sellers still have them).
Carbtune also makes a highly regarded sync gauge:
http://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html
This might be the best alternative to the mercury gauges. I paid $50 for my gauges over 10 years...
Thanks for the positive feedback all. Roaddawg, the owner's manual states that the throttle bodies should be sync'd every 7000 klm. I do this once a season, but may sync them again mid season if the idle seems rough.
Xplodnstar, thanks for the tip on the quick release fasteners. I learn...
Looks like the black stuff that leaches out and flings off when I used to use PJ1, I stopped using it for that very reason. I have been using Bel Ray chain lube (the white stuff) and no problems since.
Re: How to Sync Throttle Bodies on the FZ6R part 2
Now let's look at the layout of the controls that we will use to sync the throttle bodies. Here is the adjusting block just behind the throttle bodies. Turning these screws will increase or decrease the vacuum of each throttle body...