LED Mirror Install and Wire Splicing


brownwa

New Member
Before I get shouted down, yes I know there is already a thread on this.

However, I really need to know how the f... fudge do you splice the LED mirrors into the Motodynamic LED flush indicators? The reason why I want to do this is that the Motodynamic indicators come with a resistor kit (schematic attached). This is too convenient not do be dual purposed as a resistor kit for the LED mirrors as well.

My ambition is to splice the LED mirror wires into the wires for the LED flush indicators, right before the part that connects into the resistor kit. Has anybody successfully pulled this off? It looks like a tricky splicing job. The dealership said they would do it for me but I was a dumbass and didn't give them the lights while they were doing the Yamaha part recall repair today.
 

Attachments

Scott_Thomas

Insert title Here
Elite Member

brownwa

New Member
Video of Installed LED Mirrors

So finished the install. Here are some nice 3 second videos of it in action:

Front: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKpKu0mkrW8
Side: https://www.youtube.com/embed/W4QMSo75T54
Rear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4UT1O866oo

Pros:
  • Definitely worth the relatively cheap price.
  • Combined with the Motodynamic tail light, fender eliminator (found a cheap one on eBay) and flush mount LEDs the bike looks very sleek.
  • Dramatically improved visibility when signaling to turn.
  • Nice OEM blink rate thanks to the Motodynamic resister kit that comes free with their flush mount LEDs.
  • The mirrors actually do provide good rear visibility if you install them upside down.
  • The T-taps are a godsend. Seriously I don't know what people were thinking splicing wires before T-taps came along.

Cons:
  • Installing the mirrors upside down means that the hex bolt is blocked by the windshield. So in order to adjust and retighten the mirror you have to remove the whole damn thing. Serious *** pain.
  • The screws that come with the mirrors are a good quarter inch too short. See the below "Tips" section for advice on Lock Tight.
  • Definitely not OEM quality, especially the rubber jacket that covers the bolting to the bike. You have to distort and stretch the rubber jacket to get proper mirror positioning. It definitely looks cheap aftermarket. Also only the stalks are matte black, the mirror housing is gloss black.
  • Imperfect fitment, the mirror base is too large for the surface of the bike. It will fit securely but you will have some overhang. Well hidden by the cheap rubber jacket, but if you're a perfectionist looking for that OEM feel, then do not get these mirrors. Personally I can live with it, and nobody will notice unless they really scrutinize the bike, but it looks aftermarket.
  • Cutting required. Ideally you should drill holes as you see fit for the LED wiring. See the below listed "Tips" for a quicker solution.
  • Can't easily remove mirrors for track days because of the wiring.

Tips:
  • Install the mirrors upside down (so that the hex bolt is facing the windshield). This will give you rear visibility.
  • Tighten the hex bolts for mirror positioning before you put the display panel fairings back on.
  • No cut install of LED wiring: Cut the rubber seal under the fairing, used to brace the stock mirror. Make a grove in it for the LED wiring. Ok so this isn't exactly no cut, but you're not permanently damaging your fairing by drilling holes.
  • Install the LED mirrors at the same time as you do the Motodynamic Flush Mount LED Indicators. I didn't do this and wasted a solid hour trying to T-Tap that ***** with the fairing still on the bike.
  • Pull the male T-taps apart so that you can easily and securely thread the LED wiring into them. This allows you to very securely squeeze the metal jacket around the rubber insulation of the LED wiring.
  • Make sure to thread the plastic jacket of the male T-tap onto the LED wiring before you attach the metal male T-tap. I did not do this an embarrassing amount of times.
  • Don't tighten the bolts anymore than hand tight, otherwise you will crush the LED wiring. Alternatively you can drill holes in your fairing to properly thread the wiring, I don't like drilling holes so it's up to you.
  • OMG seriously put a drop of Lock Tight on the bolts. Lock Tight is a must if you don't want your mirrors rattling off in a few months because of bike vibration.
 

dIGITAL dISCIPLE

New Member
Can you post a quick picture of where younput your t taps? I just tried doing it to my flush mount signals and it didn't work, nor does my turn signal now. The t tap didn't cut the wire in half so I have no idea what happened.
 


Top