anyone know how to do a clutch arm alignment?

[davet7469]

i went to do a clutch replacement and i managed to mess up the clutch alignment. i managed to align the first half to match the photo i attached, but the second half where i have to adjust the push lever position, i have no idea what they are talking about. I will have a porefessional do it if i cant figure it out, but i like to try and figure out how to do it myself before i spend money on an million dollar tech ( they were gonna charge 45 to put in levers that take 5 mins to put in so i ended up installing them myself in 5 mins)

 

[Final Impact]

i went to do a clutch replacement and i managed to mess up the clutch alignment. i managed to align the first half to match the photo i attached, but the second half where i have to adjust the push lever position, i have no idea what they are talking about. I will have a porefessional do it if i cant figure it out, but i like to try and figure out how to do it myself before i spend money on an million dollar tech ( they were gonna charge 45 to put in levers that take 5 mins to put in so i ended up installing them myself in 5 mins)

Its basically saying that when its adjusted proper, the lever marks on the left side at the cable align AND the lever is applying tension to the clutch pack to release as the punch marks come into alignment.

So you adjust the depth (and lock it) until the punch marks align just as tension is taken up.

I'd guess if the adjuster is too long, the marks fall short. To short and you pass the marks. Adjust to find the sweet spot. Once thats good, make sure your lever at the top has a usable range of motion and adjust the cable length if nescessary. You must obtain freeplay and be able to fully release the clutch.

You did soak the new fiber discs for 24 hrs yes?

 

[dart1963]

please don't photocopy pages from yamaha manuals and post them here... a hand drawn picture is ok... we've had issues before and the site owner does not want any hint of legal troubles...


thanks

 

[davet7469]

alright thank you guys ill try that, that makes sense, yeah ill draw it next time or something. no i didnt, but i will do that tonight so i can get it all together tomorrow.. hopefully.

 

[davet7469]

i had a friend help me adjust the arm to where it gets tension. thank you that really helped and having an extra set of hands made the hugest difference. it's back to shifting as it should, i havent test rode it yet, but i will later tonight.

 

[davet7469]

Its basically saying that when its adjusted proper, the lever marks on the left side at the cable align AND the lever is applying tension to the clutch pack to release as the punch marks come into alignment.

So you adjust the depth (and lock it) until the punch marks align just as tension is taken up.

I'd guess if the adjuster is too long, the marks fall short. To short and you pass the marks. Adjust to find the sweet spot. Once thats good, make sure your lever at the top has a usable range of motion and adjust the cable length if nescessary. You must obtain freeplay and be able to fully release the clutch.

You did soak the new fiber discs for 24 hrs yes?

i talked to the mechanic and he said it might not be completely aligned right if it's slipping still, i just ordered new springs because i did not change them, but after i have them installed ill find out if that will fix everything. Do you have any tips on properly aligning it?

 

[Final Impact]

i talked to the mechanic and he said it might not be completely aligned right if it's slipping still, i just ordered new springs because i did not change them, but after i have them installed ill find out if that will fix everything. Do you have any tips on properly aligning it?

Did you oil soak the new fiber discs before installation? If no and they slipped, they may be burned again. Did you replace the steels? Were the old ones warped or darkened? If the steels are burned or warped it will slip. If the new friction discs are not soaked, it may slip even with new springs!
As for the adjustment, it should be pretty straight forward. You do not need the cable connected, just make certain the punch marks align as tension is taken up and the lever STOPS rotation. After that its lever and possible cable length adjustment. Bottom line, lever must have free / slack or the clutch can slip and burn again.

Mind you the fz6 i ride is not the same as the R. Ours is a pita bcuz the RS case has the lever and punch marks. The gears must engage on the proper sequence (count) or the much marks will not align when the case cover fully seats.

 

[davet7469]

Did you oil soak the new fiber discs before installation? If no and they slipped, they may be burned again. Did you replace the steels? Were the old ones warped or darkened? If the steels are burned or warped it will slip. If the new friction discs are not soaked, it may slip even with new springs!
As for the adjustment, it should be pretty straight forward. You do not need the cable connected, just make certain the punch marks align as tension is taken up and the lever STOPS rotation. After that its lever and possible cable length adjustment. Bottom line, lever must have free / slack or the clutch can slip and burn again.

Mind you the fz6 i ride is not the same as the R. Ours is a pita bcuz the RS case has the lever and punch marks. The gears must engage on the proper sequence (count) or the much marks will not align when the case cover fully seats.

yeah i did end up soaking all of it, the old ones were pretty bad and i thought replacing it would fix my issue, but sunday ill actually have time to work on it again. when i took out the old plates the steel was warped and the 2nd friction plate was bald :O thought ihe diagram had a mistake because it looked so different, but anyway thanks, for the advice, ill give it one last try and its gotta be something simple that im doing wrong if it adjust everything "correctly", if not off to the shop for them to rob me, at this point idc i just want to ride again, then work on getting a second bike for these occasions.