dailordasailor
New Member
Please see other posts. Mods please delete this one. Thanks so much for the help guys!
Last edited:
Wow. That's a tough one. Electrical issues are a biatch. With what you described, you could have shorted and fried near anything. Forgive me if I ramble, I'm going to type as I think this through...
I'd get a voltmeter and run continuity checks on all the wires that were ground through. From one end to the other. Assuming you've spliced and repaired them, good continuity will tell you that your splices are good.
That done, I would physically trace each wire from it's terminus to it's next location, be it a relay or switch, regulator, battery, whatever. Pick one wire, trace it's entirety and try to trigger each relay or switch and make sure it does what it's supposed to.
If any of them run straight into a solid module, you might be looking at the voltage regulator, or computer or some such. Move on for the moment.
If the wire runs into a switch or relay, you can test it's function and replace if bad, a whole lot cheaper than the computer or voltage regulator.
The voltage regulator you can check in concert with the alternator. Put the positive lead on the positive pole of the battery and negative lead to where the groundstrap is.
At rest, you should get 12-13 volts. Above 3k rpm, it should raise to 14 volts more or less. If it fluctuates wildly, or goes way off the chart, it's likely the voltage regulator. If it doesn't raise it may be the regulator, the battery or your alternator.
It seems unlikely you'd hurt the alternator. The regulator a definite possibility. The battery? Hmm. Possible but hard to visualize without hurting the regulator as well, unless they are really tough.
If the voltage check on the battery doesn't pan out, have the battery checked. If it's burned, replace it. If problem persists, then I'd look at the regulator.
They're built better nowadays, but I replaced three on my '82 CB900F before tracing my problem back to a bad stator in the alternator. Like I said, electrical problems are a biatch.
Anyway. Neutral doesn't lite up? OK. Could just be a fuse. Could be the bulb, or a short to ground. Honestly, all are unlikely but not impossible.
I don't know what sensor makes the neutral light come on. I can see though, that if that sensor is shorted out, it could cause all kind of wonky stuff. If you trace a wire that goes into the crank case.... Hm. I'm not even sure that's where the sensor necessarily has to be.
This could be a deep rabbit-hole.
As a beginning, I'd do what I stated above and hope you find the culprit. If not, come on back and we'll go from there.
I hope what I've written helps solve the problem. If not, there are a lot more riders who are more technically proficient than I, on this forum. Thankfully, we like to help, and we're not afraid to offer ideas.
Try what I suggested, but don't be too surprised if someone pops up and says "Try this way stupid, easy thing" and it works. Also don't be surprised if it's a really difficult problem. "Electrical problems are a biatch!"
I'd get a voltmeter and run continuity checks on all the wires that were ground through. From one end to the other. Assuming you've spliced and repaired them, good continuity will tell you that your splices are good.
That done, I would physically trace each wire from it's terminus to it's next location, be it a relay or switch, regulator, battery, whatever. Pick one wire, trace it's entirety and try to trigger each relay or switch and make sure it does what it's supposed to.
If any of them run straight into a solid module, you might be looking at the voltage regulator, or computer or some such. Move on for the moment.
If the wire runs into a switch or relay, you can test it's function and replace if bad, a whole lot cheaper than the computer or voltage regulator.
The voltage regulator you can check in concert with the alternator. Put the positive lead on the positive pole of the battery and negative lead to where the groundstrap is.
At rest, you should get 12-13 volts. Above 3k rpm, it should raise to 14 volts more or less. If it fluctuates wildly, or goes way off the chart, it's likely the voltage regulator. If it doesn't raise it may be the regulator, the battery or your alternator.
It seems unlikely you'd hurt the alternator. The regulator a definite possibility. The battery? Hmm. Possible but hard to visualize without hurting the regulator as well, unless they are really tough.
If the voltage check on the battery doesn't pan out, have the battery checked. If it's burned, replace it. If problem persists, then I'd look at the regulator.
They're built better nowadays, but I replaced three on my '82 CB900F before tracing my problem back to a bad stator in the alternator. Like I said, electrical problems are a biatch.
Anyway. Neutral doesn't lite up? OK. Could just be a fuse. Could be the bulb, or a short to ground. Honestly, all are unlikely but not impossible.
I don't know what sensor makes the neutral light come on. I can see though, that if that sensor is shorted out, it could cause all kind of wonky stuff. If you trace a wire that goes into the crank case.... Hm. I'm not even sure that's where the sensor necessarily has to be.
This could be a deep rabbit-hole.
As a beginning, I'd do what I stated above and hope you find the culprit. If not, come on back and we'll go from there.
I hope what I've written helps solve the problem. If not, there are a lot more riders who are more technically proficient than I, on this forum. Thankfully, we like to help, and we're not afraid to offer ideas.
Try what I suggested, but don't be too surprised if someone pops up and says "Try this way stupid, easy thing" and it works. Also don't be surprised if it's a really difficult problem. "Electrical problems are a biatch!"
dailordasailor
New Member
Thank you very much!
I feel that there must be something directly linked to the neutral switch and thats start of all the problems... Im bypassing the clutch safety switch (by unplugging it) as well as kickstand safety switch (by kicking it up) and then can jump starter solenoid... but looking at the service manual on the computer (like 500 pages so not printing it out) dont see anything directly linked to what signals neutral light.
I took the tank, all fairings and anything i could off so i could get to wires best as possible. Even with that chasing wires all the way is near impossible. Going to try and test the relays i can see (all in seat area). Also is there more fuses then the little fuse box under the seat?
Thanks again for everything already!
I feel that there must be something directly linked to the neutral switch and thats start of all the problems... Im bypassing the clutch safety switch (by unplugging it) as well as kickstand safety switch (by kicking it up) and then can jump starter solenoid... but looking at the service manual on the computer (like 500 pages so not printing it out) dont see anything directly linked to what signals neutral light.
I took the tank, all fairings and anything i could off so i could get to wires best as possible. Even with that chasing wires all the way is near impossible. Going to try and test the relays i can see (all in seat area). Also is there more fuses then the little fuse box under the seat?
Thanks again for everything already!
I've never actually had to work on the 6R, outside of regular maintenance, so I don't know where anything is actually located.
As far as I know, the fuses under the seat are the only ones.
Upon review, the "clutch safety switch" is a possible culprit. You have to unplug the wires (which won't actually bypass it, you'd have to jump a couple). To then be able to start the bike, you're bypassing the ignition switch.
The system is designed so that the ignition switch won't fire, if the bike thinks it is in gear. I don't recall if the 6R can be started with just the clutch lever pulled, but if so, then the clutch switch could be locking out the starter switch.
The neutral light is still an issue, but if that system is powered or controlled through the clutch switch first, that would account for the neutral light.
I've got the service manual pdf as well, and it is complete Greek to me. Try starting another topic with something like "Bypassing Clutch Safety Switch" and ask if anyone knows or can understand the service manual well enough to tell you which wires to jump to bypass it.
Of course, if it is only two wires, then there you go, lol. There are are usually three, though. If there's three or more it might go through a relay somewhere.
Regardless, try to bypass that switch and we'll move on from there.
As far as I know, the fuses under the seat are the only ones.
Upon review, the "clutch safety switch" is a possible culprit. You have to unplug the wires (which won't actually bypass it, you'd have to jump a couple). To then be able to start the bike, you're bypassing the ignition switch.
The system is designed so that the ignition switch won't fire, if the bike thinks it is in gear. I don't recall if the 6R can be started with just the clutch lever pulled, but if so, then the clutch switch could be locking out the starter switch.
The neutral light is still an issue, but if that system is powered or controlled through the clutch switch first, that would account for the neutral light.
I've got the service manual pdf as well, and it is complete Greek to me. Try starting another topic with something like "Bypassing Clutch Safety Switch" and ask if anyone knows or can understand the service manual well enough to tell you which wires to jump to bypass it.
Of course, if it is only two wires, then there you go, lol. There are are usually three, though. If there's three or more it might go through a relay somewhere.
Regardless, try to bypass that switch and we'll move on from there.
98Deathmage
Member
Try this. Rewire your clutch and kickstand switches as if they were in normal circumstances and anything else related. Try to start the bike in where you think neutral would be (go to first and half step up. Move the bike to see if its still in gear). Attempt to start the bike. If the N light doesnt show and doesnt start, pull the clutch in then while holding the lever, start the bike. If it starts, Ill tear my bike apart to take pics where the problem is. Good luck
dailordasailor
New Member
98- thank you very much. I'll try to figure out how to make the clutch plug read like its good. When comes to the kickstand i dont know how i would false that? I dont see a plug but more of wire going directly into the sensor and one bolt holding that in? Make sense?
98Deathmage
Member
Basically, I think its your neutral sensor that is causing your issue. Ill post a vid for ya tomorrow to show you what i mean and where and how to fix it. It unplugged on me and i spent hours trying to fix it. Lol
dailordasailor
New Member
Cant thank you enough for the help! Hopefully its the exact problem and wont be too expensive to replace
98Deathmage
Member
Watch this video I made. Hope it helps.Cant thank you enough for the help! Hopefully its the exact problem and wont be too expensive to replace
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv5jezbMGwo&list=UUQ_qedzy4zu8JB8jBfzCAGw
dailordasailor
New Member
thank you very much for the video man! mine is plugged in and I actually removed the switch. No idea how to "fake" the signal for it.
That being said, when you disconnected it you could pull the clutch and kickstand and start the bike. I cant do that... I still have to jump the starter solenoid when clutch is in and kickstands up.
Possibly I burned up the relay for the starter button and the neutral light? Or maybe they are actually the same relay. Sunday is going to be my garage day so its all hands on deck that day, plus have to change shocks on gfs car.
That being said, when you disconnected it you could pull the clutch and kickstand and start the bike. I cant do that... I still have to jump the starter solenoid when clutch is in and kickstands up.
Possibly I burned up the relay for the starter button and the neutral light? Or maybe they are actually the same relay. Sunday is going to be my garage day so its all hands on deck that day, plus have to change shocks on gfs car.
98Deathmage
Member
The point of the test was to see if the bike was thinking it was in gear or not. Try to start it with the plug on and off. Make sure the sensor for the clutch being pulled in and the sensor that sees the kickstand is up are operating. After this, I would have to see the bike in person to make any further guesses.
dailordasailor
New Member
sorry for the very late reply. My boss at work was injured monday so my work load has become rather large and heavy. Today i finally got my new neutral switch (well kinda, i borrowed it off my buddies 07 R6. mine will be in tuesday). Neutral light works great, bike starts right up.
Current problem: when i put it in gear it stalls. Has to be something with the safety switch on the clutch. If i unplug the clutch switch, still nothing (unplugging it worked when i had the original issue). If pull kickstand up, still stalls.
The wiring harness (lets say 10 wires) cut right under where the driver seat bolts in. Popped a couple fuses when it happened. But by unplugging the clutch plug and kicking the kickstand up, i could jump the starter with a screwdriver. Now i can start it as would be wanted, but pop it in gear and shuts off like i hit kill switch.
Thoughts? Know im pushing my luck for getting help.
Current problem: when i put it in gear it stalls. Has to be something with the safety switch on the clutch. If i unplug the clutch switch, still nothing (unplugging it worked when i had the original issue). If pull kickstand up, still stalls.
The wiring harness (lets say 10 wires) cut right under where the driver seat bolts in. Popped a couple fuses when it happened. But by unplugging the clutch plug and kicking the kickstand up, i could jump the starter with a screwdriver. Now i can start it as would be wanted, but pop it in gear and shuts off like i hit kill switch.
Thoughts? Know im pushing my luck for getting help.