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I had the exact opposite experience. I'm currently still on the original tensioner at 64k, but the last time I pulled the cams, I replaced the chain and got rid of that startup clatter.

Timing chain has stretched.

Check out RideThe6 and his R6 fork swap here: https://600cc.org/threads/2014-fz6r-with-r6-front-end-conversion.33836/

Beautiful color scheme.

I've installed a fresh set of NGK CR9EIX plugs once a year for the past 6 years and 64,xxx miles of daily commuting, and I've never adjust the gap on any of them... installed 'em right out of the box as-gapped.

Right on brudda, thanks for that. I appreciate you watching.

I feel as though the temperature aspect he experienced was in direct correlation to slow-speed maneuvering in traffic, during which the worn chain would be most noticeable. Kind of "hand-and-hand," if you will.

The only time I've bottomed out since installing the Woodcraft kit, was in a construction zone in Dallas. I was unfamiliar with the area and not ready for the drop off where they milled up the road. No issues other than that one time. I honestly can't imagine going back to a straight bar, but...

Obviously, the solution is to install a Woodcraft clip-on kit like the cool kids ;)

Looks like a replacement CDI seems to be just north of $100 on eBay. Rather costly way to rule out that as being the problem, but of course if it does fix it, then a little more than $100 is a pretty cheap fix for such a serious issue, I'd say.

I can't come up with any explanation other than CDI/ECU as well. Almost as if a plug is no longer making solid contact. I say that, because a full dash sweep is indicative of ECU on/off cycle. It's like it's on, then loses signal, so does a full "reset" sweep. Curious how the engine runs the...

The FZ6R has a slight reverse-rake from the factory. Installing the clip-on kit actually levels it out. Not to mention, rids the bike of that unsightly daylight gap between the fender and nose cowl. Don't forget to swivel your horn bracket.

I run an 03-05 R6 header with Yoshi slip-on and the Hindle Performance tune, and I get 39.85 MPG.

Yes what you described in your first sentence is precisely what it is... and if you have any bit of fork sticking up, then your bike has been lowered in the front. Lucky for you, if it truly is exactly 1.5'' then you should be able to bolt on the clip-on clamshells with no further modification...

With my particular setup preference, I’m about a quarter inch from achieving full lock to allow for key locking the forks. I believe it is possible to adjust the configuration to allow for security locking, though. It may result in an aesthetically odd looking bar arrangement.. not sure.

62,xxx Would LOVE to update that in my signature, but it’s apparently impossible nowadays.

The holes are not threaded, but Lowe's has little black plastic hole plugs with domed heads that fill the holes nicely. It's been several years ago, so I don't remember which size, but they're so cheap that I bought a couple different sizes at the time, and just threw away the ones that didn't...

I’ve had the same situation since day one, but it barely prevents full lock. It hasn’t caused any real issues since installing the kit back in 2016.

Finally! Thanks for that confirmation, I was beginning to think I had some kind of strange copy of the manual!

Just a quick follow up as I continue my research into this: I'm learning from R6 forums that this is normal, that installing the cam caps will draw the "E" timing mark down to in-line with the cylinder head as the valve springs are compressed by the actual "drawing down" of the caps. This...