Chains, O-Ring or No O-Ring


U

urbanduckman

Member
Alright, hopefully this hasn't been discussed yet. So, I recently installed a 520 118 link No O-Ring chain. All I know is that a non O-Ring chain needs to be cleaned more often while an O-ring chain is quiet, lasts longer but needs different cleaning agents so as to not damage O-rings. Now, after my Mulholland trip I had about 4" of chain play (which I assumed would happen since its a new chain and most likely stretched). I adjusted it and all was good until recently. From what I read is that if you can see light between the 3 o'clock position of the rear sprocket and chain that it would have to be replaced. I figured I would adjust again so I have 1 and a half inch of play (which I assumed was the required play the chain should have). But, I still can see a thin gap between rear sprocket and chain.

So, here's the question...
Do you think I should replace the chain again? It has less than 1k miles on it.
What's more preferred for either our bikes (fz6r) or all bikes in general? I also would like to know what the other types of chains are for (chains that are X-Ring, XW-Ring, RSO, MX)? Here's the chain I currently have installed... [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Spec-FS-520-NZR-118-520-Pitch-118-Link/dp/B007Q0JAAS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391811546&sr=1-4&keywords=520+chain+118]Amazon.com: Factory Spec FS-520-NZR-118 Red 520-Pitch 118-Link Precut NZ Chain: Automotive[/ame]

Would like to know what you all use too of course. It'll help me pick a more suitable brand/type next time. :iconbeer:
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
I would stick with a quality O-Ring chain.

Not sure about this light gap stuff you are talking. If you have no kinks or real tight spots and you have adjustment left, run it I guess.
 
Bert-Aus

Bert-Aus

Well-Known Member
The manual states no more than 50mm / 2" vertical movement at halfway point of the swingarm.

Same as JSP, stick with O, X, XW rings chains!

Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
JSP said:
I would stick with a quality O-Ring chain.

Not sure about this light gap stuff you are talking. If you have no kinks or real tight spots and you have adjustment left, run it I guess.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I also notice you own a Bandit. That's one of my next bikes I'd like to get. Any pro's/con's you have about it?
 
L

latony007

New Member
these guys at yamaha get paid a lot of money to design these bikes. Now im not saying they are perfect but i assume they chose the O ring type chains for a reason so i would stick with it. i can't see how you would need to replace the chain again but im no where near needing to replace mine yet and my other bike is belt. Soon to be shaft i hope. Selling tomorrow.
 
J

JSP

Super Moderator
urbanduckman said:
Thanks, I also notice you own a Bandit. That's one of my next bikes I'd like to get. Any pro's/con's you have about it?
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I love it. It is a beastly bike. :D Really do not have any complaints about it. Dirt cheap, no payment, I can load the hell out of it and go on long trips as well as ride it like a sports bike (which I surely do). ;)

Only gripe I guess would be that it is a little heavy and carbed instead of FI (the generation I have). But its really no biggy. Newer bandits are FI but they lose a lot of the raw, mean characteristics these ones have.

The thing is a mule. Likes to lift the front end off the ground with ease. Parts are cheap as can be for them. These engines are bulletproof and can handle some hardcore abuse.

They are dead nuts simple to work on. They do require valve adjustments every 7.5k miles or so (guess that could be a complaint), but they are so easy to do! They are just simple adjustment screw valve type. No shims or buckets to replace.

One thing I would say is to stay away from 01 models and some 02 model years. They had bad rings/pistons and burned oil. My 02 luckily squeaked by as I do not burn a single drop of oil. I would highly recommend 03-05 Bandits. Same style as mine.

I put a Hayabusa rear shock on mine and it is even better carver and holding a load. The bike is damn comfy too!


Some shameless picture plugs!! :cool:





And shameless video to show you her in some tight corner action :D

Skip to 5:30 for the tight stuff. Shows you can flip her fat @ss back and forth. :p Tatty was video taping from his FZ6R and I was in front (the one you see)

Tatty and JSP Ride: Crooked River on Vimeo
 
Y

yellowfz

I think it is funny, I remember the time when O-ring chains were shunned, people would say "Stay ways from O-ring chains they aren't any good". Either is okay, a none O-ring chain is as good as a O-ring one (was one of the first to like O-ring chains). Again tensile strength is the key, the more the better, but now I see one chain company says otherwise, if the rumor sticks we may have a new opinion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
U

urbanduckman

Member
JSP said:
I love it. It is a beastly bike. :D Really do not have any complaints about it. Dirt cheap, no payment, I can load the hell out of it and go on long trips as well as ride it like a sports bike (which I surely do). ;)

Only gripe I guess would be that it is a little heavy and carbed instead of FI (the generation I have). But its really no biggy. Newer bandits are FI but they lose a lot of the raw, mean characteristics these ones have.

The thing is a mule. Likes to lift the front end off the ground with ease. Parts are cheap as can be for them. These engines are bulletproof and can handle some hardcore abuse.

They are dead nuts simple to work on. They do require valve adjustments every 7.5k miles or so (guess that could be a complaint), but they are so easy to do! They are just simple adjustment screw valve type. No shims or buckets to replace.

One thing I would say is to stay away from 01 models and some 02 model years. They had bad rings/pistons and burned oil. My 02 luckily squeaked by as I do not burn a single drop of oil. I would highly recommend 03-05 Bandits. Same style as mine.

I put a Hayabusa rear shock on mine and it is even better carver and holding a load. The bike is damn comfy too!


Some shameless picture plugs!! :cool:





And shameless video to show you her in some tight corner action :D

Skip to 5:30 for the tight stuff. Shows you can flip her fat @ss back and forth. :p Tatty was video taping from his FZ6R and I was in front (the one you see)

Tatty and JSP Ride: Crooked River on Vimeo
Click to expand...

I was so close to picking one up for 4k, but I decided to pick up the FZ6R two months later. You have me sold on one though. It will definitely be my next bike, the liter bike can wait.
 
B

bmw675

New Member
Did you replace the sprockets at the same time? That's recommended as the different wear amount can cause problems with the other.

I have a D.I.D ERV3 chain that is awesome. I adjusted twice within a couple hundred miles, and it's been rock solid since.
They do make a chain designed for street riding as well, and I've heard nothing but positive remarks about all their products.
 
RooKie

RooKie

New Member
M

Mguenther

New Member
I would never go back to a regular chain. I remember stopping every couple hundred miles to relube the chain. Adjusting every500 miles and replacing it at 5 or 6 thouseand miles. The chain on my R6 has 10k miles on it and I have cleaned and lubed it maybe 5 times. It still looks new and I check and adjust it when I change oil at 3000 miles. The FZ6R has 5000 miles and adjusted once. They have made a lot of advances in chains in the last 50 years.
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
bmw675 said:
Did you replace the sprockets at the same time? That's recommended as the different wear amount can cause problems with the other.

I have a D.I.D ERV3 chain that is awesome. I adjusted twice within a couple hundred miles, and it's been rock solid since.
They do make a chain designed for street riding as well, and I've heard nothing but positive remarks about all their products.
Click to expand...
Yup yup, changed out to Driven brand front/rear sprockets. I'll check out the chain you have. It looks like the chain I have will only last less than 10k miles.
 
S

Superzoom

New Member
Hi Urbanduckman,

Sounds like you already have your conclusion. I'd definitely stick with O or X ring in the future.

4" of slack after only 1000 miles sounds really scary. My chain has about 15 000 miles and it's only needed to be adjusted twice, and has stretched very slowly and predictably. Your anecdote makes it seem like O-ring chains will actually be cheaper for you in the long run.
 
B

bmw675

New Member
I think its worth mentioning, the tighter you set the chain, the more/faster it will stretch. If you switch chains, set it at the middle to loose end of the range after you have a few hundred miles on it.
 
U

urbanduckman

Member
Superzoom said:
Hi Urbanduckman,

Sounds like you already have your conclusion. I'd definitely stick with O or X ring in the future.

4" of slack after only 1000 miles sounds really scary. My chain has about 15 000 miles and it's only needed to be adjusted twice, and has stretched very slowly and predictably. Your anecdote makes it seem like O-ring chains will actually be cheaper for you in the long run.
Click to expand...
I think I'll try X-ring next time, looks promising.
 
S

Scott_Thomas

Insert title Here
Elite Member
bmw675 said:
I think its worth mentioning, the tighter you set the chain, the more/faster it will stretch. If you switch chains, set it at the middle to loose end of the range after you have a few hundred miles on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, have seen that recommendation as well. Never supposed to make the chain completely tight. Should have a little slack. Good tip!
 

S

stuna

New Member
A NON O RING . WILL NOT LAST FOR $%^*(. :zombie:
EVEN A CHEAP O RING IS &*()():zombie:
JUST USE A GOOD SET AND RIDE ON . been there done that . back in my day the was not o ring chains . so i have plenty of experience with poor chains :eek:, been riding since . well a long time
 
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