After 4 years... finally going for it. Mods, mods, mods!


tonofun

New Member
Owned my UK XJ6 Diversion F now for 4+ years, bought it new in Sep 2012. Other than some heated grips and handle bar protectors, I've left it pretty much stock. Until now...

Meet the end of your {my!} ear drums - the KRAKATOA! lol

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

A custom made, stainless steel silencer with a curved tail pipe that pops out the same spot as the old stock one. Made by Pro Speed Exhausts, Cardiff

It's small and very light weight, and as you can see in the linked pic, is still tucked underneath neatly away, whilst still retaining the (essential to me) centre stand. Did I mention it's a bit loud?

Well, at the moment it's VERY F***ING LOUD! Probably a bit too loud if I'm honest (something I never thought I'd ever say about an exhaust, must be getting old). Anyway, I've been back to the guy who made it and had a chat about it, and he says he still has some options for changing it a little to try and take the edge off of it.

But first, I have a Power Commander V on order, and when that arrives I'll get it fitted and then go back to my local Dyno garage (yes, go back - I went and had a 'base' run done first before any of this to get a record of stock) and get it tuned/mapped properly for the new characteristics of this exhaust. I've heard that engines running a bit lean tend to be a bit louder anyway, so I'm hoping that just being properly mapped might help take some of the edge off of the noise it makes. If not, I'll take it back to Pro Speed and have him make his changes and see how that goes...

Then, it's on to a DNA air filter and air box mod to really open out the intake side, and then back to the Dyno garage once more.

Wish me luck!
 

tonofun

New Member
The PCV has arrived! Now I just have to find the time to install it.

I should also be picking up a DNA Air filter in a day or two, so I'll be looking to fit that and chop off the bottom of the air box whilst I'm at it. Oh, and I just learned about those AIS block-off plates too, so just ordered some of those, express delivery from Greece, hope they'll be with me Thurs/Fri too.

As for installing the PCV, I think it's probably a no brainer to hook up the 'speed' signal, but does anyone bother with the engine temperature feed into the analogue port? Could also really do with a guide regarding the PCV software - it's a bit daunting at first glance, and the included 'Help' file doesn't seem to work (on Windows 10 anyway).

Once all this is done, it's back to my closest Dyno garage again to get them to tune it under ideal conditions. I'm also considering hooking up a switch to 'Input 1' for map switching - maybe they could map "economy" and "Go Baby Go!" setups? lol
 

tonofun

New Member
Here's the Dyno chart before any mods, after 25k miles.

Chart

It was only a 'basic' run (read:cheap), so only 4th, 5th and 6th gears and no torque figures (though I'm sure they're probably recorded on the Dyno computer).

66.5 Bhp at the wheel to start. I'll be very pleased if I can get that to 70, with a much stronger torque response.

I'll try and get a video of the new exhaust as it currently stands up soon, though I'm fairly sure that I'm going to take it back at some point and get the guy to try and tone it down a bit in volume.
 

Drennan57

New Member
Cool, look forward to the results. I'm specifically interested on the air box mod. Free improvements always interests me lol
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

tonofun

New Member
FZ6 cams right? They drop straight in? Any other changes needed to support them other than PCV mapping? How much hp gain on just cams?

Any ignition timing tricks possible on our bike?
 
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Marthy

World Most Bad A$$ 6R
Elite Member

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

Drennan57

New Member
I wish I had some bike mechanic friends. The idea of 90hp in my bike would be amazing :(

Never gonna be able to do anything extreme like that on my own sadly.
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

tonofun

New Member
An update:

Yesterday, fitted new DNA air filter (and I just realised looking at my phone I forgot to take a side-by-side pic with the OEM filter, D'oh!) and lopped off the entire bottom of the front of the air box with a dremel. Fitted AIS block off plates, removing the pipe work of the AIS but leaving the reed valve behind and plugged in, trying to ward off any possible "Check Engine" lights. Test fitted the installation of the PCV, but ultimately decided to leave it disconnected, as I could not for the life of me find the pink speed signal wire in a 3 pin white plug under the tank anywhere. Fired it up and it sounded pretty terrible. There was a really raw sound of the cam shafts coming out and I was worried that chopping the bottom of the air box off wasn't such a great idea (more on that in a sec). Also, the exhaust was still burbling and popping like mad under deceleration (a clue!).

Tonight, decided to check the AIS block off plates for leaks due to continued burbling and popping - low and behold! They were not sat completely flush with the top of the rocker cover. Popped 'em back off and found the issue, there's 2 'locating pins' sticking up underneath where they sit preventing them sitting flat and flush, because there's no matching holes taking them into consideration in the block off plates I bought - annoying! So decided to re-install the OEM AIS system, but I left the bung blocking the connecting hole in the top of the air box which fed to the reed valve, and sealed off valves' feed pipe too with a bung and a hose clamp - hey presto, a cheap simple way to nobble the AIS without spending over £30. If only I'd thought of that sooner... Though in all honesty, I will probably look to drill some indents into the plates and re-fit them in the future, just because it's neater in my mind. Should I contact eBay seller and inform tho?

This also turned out to be the source of the horrid sounding cam shaft noise - because the bloody rocker cover had permanently open holes in the top of it! So the air box mod doesn't sound shit, it actually sounds pretty throaty and sweet! Decided to have another gander around for that bloody pink speed signal wire in a 3 pin white connector - still couldn't find it! "**** it, let's just fit the ****ing PCV anyway!" So I did. Still just about accessible in the 'steering head space' without removing any covers too. Loaded up Marthy's map (Advgear RevB - but not with 6 gears worth of tables, just one from 4th gear), calibrated the TPS (throttle position sensor) after it had warmed up and it was done.

Rode it home - hell of a lot smoother! Much more get up and go from lower down the revs, and also I think it is overall a little bit quieter too (the neighbours will be pleased). Still not quite as peppy at the top of the revs as it was tho, but I'm sure a proper dyno session will sort that out when I can arrange one. My exhaust is almost practically a straight-through pipe in reality, so probably not as ideal as a Two Brothers etc

Before that though, I'd still like to find the friggin' speed signal wire!! And also plug the temperature wire in (found that one easy) - on the topic of, has anyone else wired in the temp signal before? If so, where did you find the appropriate 'this voltage = this temp' values to insert into the table for the PCV? Ta.

Oh, and if anyone has tips regarding that stupid bloody pink wire, I'd be eternally grateful!

Overall, a very successful couple of modifications and a very happy me. :D

Still to do:

Fix block off plates
Wire up speed and temperature signals to PCV
Make video of exhaust sound
Dyno session to fully re-map as appropriate for my mods.
 
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tonofun

New Member
No one have any info on that tricky Speed signal wire then?

I'll start digging around in the service manual if not, but I'm not sure I'll be able to decipher those monstrously huge wiring diagrams.

On another note - now that I have a Power Commander V, do I need to do anything regarding my O2 sensor? I've seen mention of it and the OEM ECU trying to 'cancel out' the changes being made by the PCV...?

Can I just unplug it (Check engine light?)?

Or do I need something like this ? What does that thing 'actually' do? (avoid Check Engine lights?)

Thanks for any advice. I'm learning as I go.

Oh, and I have my 'dyno time' booked for the 20th of July currently for PCV re-mapping :eek:

It's a long ways off unfortunately but the garage is pretty busy, so I'll just have to wait it out.
 

tonofun

New Member
One extra note to mention:

When I've got the PCV plugged in to the laptop/tablet, and the PowerCommander software is running, there is data coming in for engine RPM's, % duty, throttle %, and fuel adjustment %, but the AFR figure is just blank/zero. Is that normal? Can the PCV not see the AFR data from the stock ECU and O2 sensor? Does it only have that figure showing in the software for when you have something like the Autotune plugged in too?

Thanks again.
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member

Rumpig

Member
Pretty sure you need autotune with it's own afr sensor, factory one can't be used.
My experience riding around with an aftermarket AFR guage fitted was that the factory O2 sensor cancelled out any extra fuel added. You can unplug and remove it ( the factory O2 sensor ) but then I had AFRs of 10.5 at cruising speed instead of 14.7, way to rich. I fitted a US ecu as they don't run the O2 sensor standard, had to swap some wires and unplug the immobilizer to do the swap. If you keep the autotune fitted full time you might be O.K.
 

tonofun

New Member
Update:

I finally have video of the new exhaust sound! I'll get it cut and up on Youtube in the next day or so.

However - I made sure to get it on film this evening as tomorrow I'm planning on taking it back to Pro Speed in an attempt to make it a bit quieter :eek:

Yes, yes, sacrilege I know, but my ear drums (and my neighbours) will thank me. Also, I hope to avoid unnecessary run-ins with the local fuzz. Yes, it really is that loud. I hope to maintain its gorgeous sound/tone but lower the decibels a tad.

Obviously, the poor little mic on my iPhone can't really do it justice, with plenty of obvious clipping showing in the sound meter in Premiere Pro, but it's all I had to use.
 

tonofun

New Member
On another note - now that I have a Power Commander V, do I need to do anything regarding my O2 sensor?
As found whilst nosing around on PowerCommander.com :

Do I need to disconnect my O2 sensors?

In order for the race ready line of Power Commanders to have complete control over everywhere a vehicle runs, we usually want to disable, or control the stock o2 sensor(s) on a machine. This gives us the ability to tune the vehicle everywhere. If the stock o2 sensors are left connected as from the factory, they would conflict with the fuel changes the Power Commander is making. In effect, nullifying the fuel changes the Power Commander makes.
So the answer is YES, apparently. I take it the US FZ6R doesn't have an O2 sensor?

Just ordered this to achieve the goal, but I'll leave fitting it till just before my booked Dyno time, as I've seen it suggested that disconnecting it puts the OEM ECU into a 'limp' mode, generating AFR's of 10.something.

So I'm fairly certain my fuel map (when it's done) will be quite a sweeping range of -negative values to correct this 'limping', instead of the +positive values that currently dominate it. Currently i feel it's running WAY over-rich, as I can really smell fuel sometimes, and my fuel economy has tanked a bit. I don't want to be stuck in this situation too long tho as it'll start causing deposits on my plugs, washing oil off the cylinder walls etc etc

I still need to find the damn speed signal wire though, the service manual confirms there's different wiring diagrams for the XJ6FZ (FZ6R?) and the XJ6FA (my bike), but be buggered if I can make sense of either of them. I just don't know how to decipher them.

If I could find it, I could de-install my O2 sensor and load up one the LeoVince maps from PowerCommander straight away and avoid potential engine issues/damage, rather than waiting a month for my booked Dyno time (which may be buggered up anyway, as my new son is expected to arrive around that time, lol)
 

Rumpig

Member
According to the manual the speed sensor has 3 wires off it, one blue, one white/yellow and one black /blue. Not sure what one you need. I think if you lift the tank there's a group of wires in a rubber sleeve close to the hinge point they might be there.
 

tonofun

New Member
According to the manual the speed sensor has 3 wires off it, one blue, one white/yellow and one black /blue. Not sure what one you need. I think if you lift the tank there's a group of wires in a rubber sleeve close to the hinge point they might be there.
Aw dude, thanks for looking and trying to help me out! :thumbs:

I think I know what you're talking about too, I've seen that on the diagram for the XJ6FZ in the manual (labelled as no. 30, right?)

Unfortunately, in the diagram and 'part list' for the XJ6FA in the manual, there isn't even a listed entry for a 'Speed Sensor' part :confused:

I e-mailed DynoJet Research Inc. in the US asking for help, and they replied and told me to e-mail their UK counterparts, DynoJet UK Ltd, which I've just done a few minutes ago. Someone must know how to do this, I can't possibly be the 1st guy in the UK to try and do this... For now I wait.
 

tonofun

New Member
So I got a response from DynoJet UK Ltd, not that it has shed any more light on this for me tho :(

Apologies in advance for the wall of text, but I'm hoping someone else with experience might stumble across this thread and offer some insight...

From: Jon
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>

Hello DynoJet UK Ltd,

Please could you assist me? I first contacted DynoJet Research Inc. in the U.S., and they advised me to speak to you.

I recently purchased a Power Commander V unit for my Yamaha XJ6 Diversion F (XJ6FA) and though the main bulk of the installation onto the bike was a snap, the instructions included appear to be for the US version of the bike, the FZ6R (XJ6FZ). The information relating to the optional inputs may or may not be correct for the XJ6FA – particularly the ‘speed signal’ notes.

The instructions make mention of the Temperature Signal’s wire location being part of the main in-line couplings of the Power Commander V harness, and I believe this to still be true of my bike. Can you confirm this for me?

The instructions regarding the Speed Signal’s wire location however make mention of a PINK wire as part of a 3-pin WHITE connector under the fuel tank – and as far as I can tell at least, this information is incorrect with regard to the European XJ6FA.

Do you have installation/technical documentation relating to this matter please?

Thank you for any help you can offer.

Regards,
Jon
From: Richard -Dynojet UK

Hi Jon,
The speed signal on the UK bike is also a pink wire on the sensor side of the connector. Unfortunately, I do not have an image of this.
With regards to the temperature input; It is on the same connector at the 6 pin PCV connector, but is is not wired into this. (this would only be necessary if the bike was in a very heavy state of tune i.e. turbocharged)
Hope this helps.
Regards,

Richard Redmayne
Dynojet UK
Thank you so much for trying to help Richard.

If I recall, I found a wire that had some pink on it I can’t remember its exact colouring now, pink and white maybe?), as part of a 4-pin white connector under the tank – would that be it?

And the temperature signal input – are you saying I shouldn’t hook it up for some reason? I thought it would be useful for engine warm-up data etc? And I have identified the correct wire, yes?

I guess I could check both of these wires with a multi meter, and I should see a steady rising/dropping voltage on the temp from a cold start, and a voltage that varies in line with rear wheel speed on the speed wire, yes?

Thanks again.
From: Richard -Dynojet UK
Sent: 23 June 2016 13:22
To: Jon
Subject: Re: Fwd: FW: Power Commander V Technical Support Inquiry

Jon,
The wire for your speed will be on a three pin connector and should be a solid pink wire.
You can hook the temperature up to the PCV, however unless you have a problem with the warm up cycle i.e. when larger injectors have been fitted there is not a lot you would need from this input.
I did not do the development on this model, so I can not say if the speed is a voltage based system or a frequency. The temperature will either be a rising voltage or a dropping voltage as both can be used by this manufacturer.
Hope this helps.
Regards,

Richard Redmayne
Dynojet UK
Richard,

You’re sure the UK bike is like that, yes?

That’s basically what the instructions say that came in the box (with the exception of specifying a WHITE 3-pin connector), and I looked at all the connectors I could find under the fuel tank and around the throttle bodies and under the air box and I could not find anything matching that description.

The service manual I have for the bike also holds two wiring diagrams, each for the XJ6FA and the XJ6FZ, and they are definitely different. Heck the XJ6FA wiring diagram parts list doesn’t even list a Speed Sensor item like the XJ6FZ one does (which is no. 30 on the list).

Well, I guess I’ll just have to take it apart again and have another look for that damned pink wire. If in the meantime, you happen to come across any documentation or photographs that might help me shed some light on this mystery, I’d be grateful.

Thank you once again for trying to help me. Have a good day sir.

Regards,
Jon
 


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