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Shoei RF-1200

Outstanding! Sure enough, there it is. Thanks man I’m gonna order one!

Tom, Thanks for the detailed reply! That’s some pretty reassuring information. By chance, would you happen to have a link handy to that 4 degree rotor?

According to the previous owner, the combo was taken off an older gen R6.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124506658546?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233907%26meid%3Dfa95393c165a405e9c03c226e9a1f321%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D274057312206%26itm%3D124506658546%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAML...

Go with the thermostat.. it's cheap and will mostly cost you the time it takes to swap it out. As for the code, there is a way to put the cluster into a diagnostic mode that will reveal what code it's throwing. Wouldn't surprise me if it was cooling system related. I don't recall exactly how to...

I've heard good things about both the Delkivic system as well as the Black Widow system. Both are half the cost of Two Bros and M4, but equal in quality from what I've seen. Also, bear in mind that my Yoshi is a slip-on installed onto an R6 header... not much in the way of a "system" or "kit" ;)

Fantastic... that's one set of features I don't have access to, since I run the PCFC. I'll be curious to hear how it works out for you!

Hey thanks man, I appreciate that! :cool:

Go here and get the Viper RevB map: https://marthymotorcycleexhaustsolution.com/tech_support/

Mine is the 03-05 gen. No bending was required to clear the oil pan.

I think your head gasket is fine :)

What color is your coolant? Does it look contaminated? How about the oil? Any milky looking stuff on the dipstick?

Sounds like you're already on the right track with your ideas for investigation. If you can't verify its coolant swap history, then I'd go ahead and do that first. The fact that it waits for 212 (fan on) certainly may point to a sticky thermostat. Gonna have to get the throttle body assembly...

Dang, excellent data!! Well since I've got your attention, what about the 4 degree advance with respect to geographical location and temperature? I ask because I'm in central Texas, and even running 93 octane, I can't help but wonder if heat indices of 104+ would spell disaster?

I've unintentionally tested the GYTR cut-style sliders and can confirm they completely prevent fairing contact with the ground. However, the bolt holding the puck bent upon impact, and had to be replaced along with the puck.

I'll be most curious to hear of your results. I'll state it again: my understanding is that 4 degrees of timing advance is appropriate for the FZ6. A timing advance of 3 degrees is the max you want to safely run on the FZ6R. I can certainly be wrong, but not one person running a 4 degree...

Here you go; it's $75 on Partzilla: https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/20S-26111-01-00?ref=45f9523b70f887182afe7349f751ec7044c6ac27

It's not for the faint of heart, but very doable if you follow the factory service manual. The hardest part is overcoming the valve overlap inherent with the exhaust cam whilst setting the timing. Best case scenario, and as stated by Just_Jim, it could just be your tensioner. That's a cheap...